Need Help with Budget Set-up

[jamie_smith3]

<p>Okay, I just ordered a 60" Impact satin white umbrella with removable black back. I have a stand and I plan to rent the SB-900 from my local rental store. I'm going to do some test shots with the 900 in the umbrella, with and without the combination of the Sb-600 on-camera for bounce. I haven't yet decided whether I want shoot through or bounce; which is fine because this umbrella can do both! (awesome!!) For the formals, I've decided to use both flashes in the umbrella and place it mostly in the front of group, just behind me, off to the right a little and above my head for even lighting. What do you think of this? After doing extensive research this was the best I could come up with from what I've learned.<br>

Bob, how did your wedding go?<br>

Nadine, thank you for such informative answers! For formals, I think I will use manual flash only because there will be no sudden variation of distances and ambient lighting. Then I will switch to TTL during reception. Sound good? I've been practicing my flash whenever I can. But because I don't have a group of 18 people to use as models before the wedding, I'll just have to make my best judgement call. I like how NvanN uses this one light setup here <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/2012/01/23/simple-lighting-setup-for-photographing-the-wedding-formals/">http://neilvn.com/tangents/2012/01/23/simple-lighting-setup-for-photographing-the-wedding-formals/</a> for bride shots and medium size formals. I'm hoping to get similar results. I have found that my SB 600 does take awhile to refresh and the power isn't as strong, so I will definitely be renting the SB 900.<br>

Just to get it straight, I need a low shutter speed to have pleasing ambient light levels, (pleasing to me meaning natural-looking) and a medium closed aperture to include the background detail and avoid OOF images. With these settings I need to have a high ISO to have the work for proper exposure. ?? High ISO also gets me the most out of the output power from my flash. If my flash is too strong and I don't want to underexpose the background anymore, than I close the aperture further? or lower the flash output? Or do you only use aperture to control flash output after you've reached the end (either high or low) of the power output? sorry for so many questions, but I just want to get it right. And asking someone directly about my specific questions rather than searching for an answer is the best way to learn, for me. </p>

[jamie_smith3]

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/423631-REG/Impact_UBBW60_60_Convertible_Umbrella.html"><strong>Here</strong> </a>is the umbrella I chose. The reviews pretty much sold it for me.</p>

[picturesque]

<p>1. First of all, read the following:</p>

<p><a href="00WOk3">http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00WOk3</a><br>

<a href="00WSF7">http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00WSF7</a></p>

<p>A 60" umbrella can be very nice for formals. I personally have 3 60" umbrellas, one white, one PLM white, and one PLM soft silver. I would recommend that you not put the 2 shoemounts into the 60" umbrella. You normally have very little time to begin formals and everyone is usually just foaming at the mouth to get to the reception. Neil van Niekerk has assistants versed on putting together and taking down technically complex gear. While you might be able to set up the SB-900 prior to the formals session, you would have to then take the SB-600 off your camera and set it up in umbrella, and then test. You will be surprised how 2 minutes under the steely eyed pressure of 20 people waiting for you will wilt your confidence. You might also need the SB-600 for fill.</p>

<p>In addition, I know that sometimes, particularly with umbrellas, the Nikon wireless system can fail, due to line of sight issues. While using the umbrella shoot through may help with line of sight (or not, if the umbrella is behind you), shoot through takes more flash power. In addition, if shooting in very large spaces and NOT at high ISO, the help you get from the bounce back isn't very significant.</p>

<p>I know that a single 580EX II into a 60" umbrella, at ISO 640, and with the wide angle diffuser down or the flash zoomed manually to 24mm, full power (manual flash for formals is good), at about 10 feet from the group, will allow you to shoot with f5.6, which, with a cropped sensor camera, is plenty for DOF using a 35mm angle of view (full frame--about 24mm with a cropped sensor camera). The SB-900 should be about the same. You should also research the SB-900. I have heard of issues--can't remember what now--but one should always know about these things, if renting. Be sure to adjust the flash distance to umbrella so the flash fills the umbrella</p>

<p>The umbrella should be about 15 degrees to your right, with the bride on the left side as you are facing the group. The bride always gets the good light. With a reflected umbrella, you should feather the light across the front of the group. To check for shadows falling from one person to the other, stand under the umbrella and look at the group. Where you see faces obscured, is where the shadows will fall. Usually, if you point the umbrella slightly past the middle of the group, that is good feathering.</p>

<p>A group of 18 should be in 3 rows, possibly 4, closely packed, both in depth and in width. Put the focus point 1/3 of the way into the depth of the group</p>

<p>By the way, convertible umbrellas have one annoying trait. That is, once you take the black cover off, it is very difficult to fold it when you put the cover back on--it is never the same. I ended up having one white umbrella which I keep folded together, and one just for shoot through. PLMs also are about 2/3 stop more efficient.</p>

<p>2. For dragging the shutter look at the following post. I can point to my 6:18pm post to describe how I do it. Re the background--depends what you mean by pleasing looking. It will need to be underexposed for the concept to work. Re the aperture--depends on how much DOF you like. Some people are always using f2.8. Don't know what wide open is on your lens, but I don't think you have much choice? Aren't the widest apertures f3.5 or 4.5? You should be OK at ISO 800 for the reception. You may not have the most 'open' backgrounds but what is important is the people.</p>

<p><a href="00PFGA">http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00PFGA</a></p>

<p>If your flash is too strong, compensate it lower. Closing down the aperture will get you darker backgrounds, if you don't make the shutter speed correspondingly slower. I would say that you use ISO rather than aperture when running into flash output limitations, realizing what your camera is capable of when getting up into the extremely high ISOs.</p>

[jamie_smith3]

<p>Thank you for all the wonderful advice. I think I finally understand the jist of it. I will respond later when I have some test shots to discuss...Much appreciation,<br>

Jamie</p>

 

[jamie_smith3]

<p>Results of all your excellent tips! The wedding went decently smooth. Here are some shots from formals. I used one 60" shoot through umbrella with two speedlights (SB-600&SB-900) Let me know what you think! Kindly :)</p>

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[picturesque]

<p>Look a bit underexposed (are you using a calibrated monitor) but otherwise lighting is fine. Also a bit warm in white balance, but not too bad (could also be related to calibrated monitor).</p>