2012 PocketWizard HyperSync Nikon 3.003 firmware tests:

studio460 · February 25, 2012

PocketWizard MiniTT1/FlexTT5 firmware utility v1.35

Nikon v3.003 firmware release

Body: Nikon D3s

Strobe: Dynalite Uni400JR, full-power; t.5 = 1/675th

f/11 @ 1/250th (x-sync)

f/8 @ 1/500th

f/5.6 @ 1/1,000th

f/4.0 @ 1/2,000th

studio460 · February 25, 2012

The initial test above demonstrated no visible HyperSync effect (i.e., large curtain-shadow), because I was unfamiliar with how the new firmware controls the offset. Reading the firmware's release notes explains this.

PocketWizard v3.003 Nikon firmware release notes:

http://www.pocketwizard.com/upload/photos/904Nikon_Mini_Flex_Firmware_Release_Notes_3.003.pdf

What's new in v3.003 is that the TT5, not the TT1, actually controls the HyperSync offset. And it does this "automatically." So, connecting the TT5 (instead of the TT1) to the PocketWizard utility, you now set your strobe's flash duration on an arbitrary scale from 1 to 10. Since the Dynalite Uni400 Jr. I'm using has a fairly long t.5 value of 1/675th, I chose a "slow" value of '9' in the drop-down menu, under "P2 HyperSync Flash Duration," as shown below:

<img src="http://nikoncinematographer.com/images/HS4.jpg" alt="" /> The "AC9 Flash" moniker, while confusing, is correct. The new utility software comes with built-in presets for several Paul C. Buff monolights (but, curiously, omits a preset for their Einstein E640). The PocketWizard release notes recommend choosing the flash closest in power to the one you're actually using. I chose the AB400, even though I'm using neither an AC9 nor an AB400.

Again, in these new test images below, I set the "P2 HyperSync Flash Duration" on the TT5 to a value of '9' (indicating that I'm using a "slow" or long-duration flash). In the previous test above, the value was mistakenly set to '1' which would be used for a short-duration strobe:

<img src="http://nikoncinematographer.com/images/HS9-1.jpg" alt="" /> f/11 @ 1/250th (x-sync)

<img src="http://nikoncinematographer.com/images/HS9-2.jpg" alt="" /> f/8 @ 1/500th

<img src="http://nikoncinematographer.com/images/HS9-3.jpg" alt="" /> f/5.6 @ 1/1,000th

<img src="http://nikoncinematographer.com/images/HS9-4.jpg" alt="" /> f/4.0 @ 1/2,000th

As you can see, the result is less than perfect. The exposure is graduated from top to bottom. In certain scenes, this would be less noticeable. It's in such "less noticeable" types of scenes, where HyperSync would be a workable solution whenever a higher-synced shutter speed would be desired.

studio460 · February 25, 2012

Here's an example of one of those scenes:

Look closely, and you'll notice that the exposure is uneven from top-to-bottom (darker at the top, brighter at the bottom). This was HyperSynced using a Nikon D3s, a Dynalite Uni400 Jr., and some SB-600s, at 1/8,000th.

fotografz · February 25, 2012

Thanks Ralph.

If the graduated effect is fairly consistent, really not very severe, and doesn't involve difficult color casts ... which your test seems to indicate ... you may be able to employ software pre-sets like those used for correcting a similar effect when using tech cameras with certain medium format digital backs, especially ones that employ micro-lenses.

In fact, perhaps with very careful trial and error work in Light-Room using the graduated tool, you could construct a User Pre-set for each f/stop-Shutter speed and label it for use as a batch adjustment.

Worth a look maybe?

-Marc

studio460 · February 25, 2012

There's an even better work-around, I found from my previous tests. If I aim the hot-spot of the strobe "up," you can compensate for the uneven exposure quite effectively. My apologies, since some settings were changed by mistake (ISO and flash power) between the two tests (i.e., both x-sync frames should look identical--they're not). I'll try to shoot some better, more consistent tests tomorrow. Plus, I haven't yet tried to optimize the offset. This may get even a bit better.

rodeo_joe1 · February 25, 2012

No amount of fiddling with the flash timing will alter the fact that the flash duration simply isn't long enough to cover the full shutter transit time. OK, the gradual falloff from bottom to top of the frame is less obtrusive than a sharp cutoff at the bottom, but it's still uneven.

You could do exactly this without the PW trigger, by using a proprietory flash in the hotshoe to set the camera into Focal-Plane synchronisation mode. Once in FP mode the camera will fire any other flash via its P-C socket and you can get exactly the results shown above - only easier. Most studio and nearly all battery-portable strobes will have to be set at full power to get acceptably even flash coverage though.

Below is a quick test taken using a Nikon D700, forced into FP synch using on-camera i-TTL flash and coupled to a Metz 45CL-4 via the P-C socket. The illumination still falls off at the top of the frame, but if you're looking for a high speed fill flash outdoors, that's probably not too important. And no Pocket Wizard gizmo needed.<div></div>

frank_skomial · February 25, 2012

Thanks for useful examples. It expand our understanding, more than reading vendors' specs.

Seems that the Pocket Wizard Utility is incredibly powerful tool to adjust Hyper Sync flash trigger timing to your flash and camera ability or property.

In his first test Ralph checked the "Disable HSS/FP" and results are as expected, with vertically travelled shutter from the top down and front curtain triggering. The Hyper Sync adjustment of the timming really did not do any good to the pictures, but possibly used flash energy in a more power effecient mode?

In the second example Ralph unchecked the Dsiable HSS/FP, and naturally, entire frame was covered by the flash light in FP mode, perhaps as expected, Not sure if any other settings played significant role there at all, except perhaps better flash energy usage ? ...but is good to know that there is a way to alter some parameters in the HSS/FP mode, giving needed flexibility for some users who take time to adjust their flashes/cameras parameters in the PW units.

The second test does not convince me either that the Hyper Sync does any good, exccept causing uneven exposure.

Perhaps I would have to do experiment all over for a different flash or camera combinations, and this is something that I would try to avoid.

However, the shooting scenario described by Joe seems odd, or we do not have complete setup information.

The FP mode in the D700 is a CLS wireless commanding operation, and would not affect the Metz connected via the PC sync cable, even if Metz was capable of Nikon FP.

Also, the D700 built-in flash is FP capable only at 1/320 sec, and at faser shutters, e.g. 1/3200 sec in Joes example, the flash bult-in D700 is not capable to produce any FP light, has not enough power, and is not a FP flash like SB800/900. Yes, it has the capability to command remotely/wirelessly remote flashes capable of Nikon CLS at any faster speed, but alone it does not do FP lighting faster than 1/320, regardless if anything is connected to the camera PC socket or not.

Perhaps Joe used another CLS/FP capable flash on-the camera, like SB800/900/700 etc, and in this case the exposure light is even by the FP action of that flash, and has perhaps nothing to do with the Metz. Most likely, if in FP mode, the trigger signal through PC port was too early, and Metz fired before the shutter opened.

Joe please repeat your test, and place Metz flash in the picture, and tell if you used any other CLS/FP capable flash ön the camera, or remotely, since the built-in flash alone will have no effect on FP produced lighting at 1/3200 sec.

Seems possible that the Metz45-CL4 flash could have a long time duration covering the frame with the flash light evenly.

.

studio460 · February 25, 2012

Frank, my apologies, but the first "test" should be ignored. Only the second test has the relevant settings. Unlike in previous versions of the PocketWizard Nikon firmware, the offset is now set in the TT5 (receiver), via the PocketWizard utility, rather than in the TT1 (transmitter). I'll try to clarify a bit better when I have more time.

Joe, yes, as I alluded to in the other thread, this technique is neither unique to PocketWizard triggers, nor unique to RF triggers in general. Otherwise known as the "FP high-speed hack," where you put a Speedlight in your camera's hot-shoe, and attach any other strobe via your PC-socket, I explored that technique in the following thread last year:

http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00YxXG

rodeo_joe1 · February 25, 2012

"The FP mode in the D700 is a CLS wireless commanding operation, and would not affect the Metz connected via the PC sync cable, even if Metz was capable of Nikon FP."

</blockquote>

Not quite. Connecting an FP enabled i-TTL flashgun to the hotshoe of the D700 (and presumably other Nikon cameras) and raising the shutter speed above the X-synch speed sets both the camera and flash into their FP mode of operation. The camera synch is altered to trigger as soon as the first shutter blind begins its travel, instead of when it's fully open - which is the very definition of FP synch. The P-C socket of the camera is linked to, and has the same timing as the hotshoe and so will trigger any flash that's connected to it in FP synch.

The Metz flash on full power has a long enough flash duration to output a reasonable amount of light for the complete transit time of the shutter - i.e. the full width of the frame.

"Also, the D700 built-in flash is FP capable only at 1/320 sec"

</blockquote>

Two things here Frank: Firstly, I didn't use the built-in flash. I connected a full-sized i-TTL compatible flashgun to the camera's hotshoe. Secondly, the D700's built-in flash isn't FP capable at all. It genuinely X synchronises at 1/320th of a second (although I know you don't believe this).

"Seems possible that the Metz45-CL4 flash could have a long time duration covering the frame with the flash light evenly."

</blockquote>

Exactly! And that's all that's happening with the Pocket Wizard "HyperSync" mode too. The PW forces the camera into FP synch mode and relies on the external flash having a long enough duration to cover the shutter travel.

So you see, there's no mystery here.

BTW, the hotshoe mounted i-TTL/FP flash was pointed up at the ceiling so that its contribution to the lighting was minimal. In any case the FP modified output is puny compared to the full blast from a hammerhead unit like the Metz.

rob_h5 · February 25, 2012

From Canon Pocketwizard Utility: A setting of 1-3 (FAST) will work best with a flash that has a short duration, like most hot shoe flashes. A 4-7 (MEDIUM) setting would be useful for a medium duration flash, such as an Alien Bees B400 or an Elinchrom 300RX, and an 8-10 (SLOW) setting would fit best for a Profoto Acute series, or higher powered Elinchrom or AlienBees flash. Some experimentation may be necessary to find the best setting for your camera and flash combination.

</blockquote>

Ralph thanks for posting this. Your results are amazing. I had nowhere near your luck when doing these Pocketwizard Hypersync tests last year. I am shooting with the Pocketwizard Canon MiniTT1 and use the latest 2011 ControlTL Firmware release for the MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 for CANON Version 6.000. (No 2012 update yet for Canon shooters from Pocketwizard).

I did these same tests last year on the slowest flash duration studio strobe I have which is the Bowens/Calumet 750R monolight (near identical as Bowens Gemini 750 Pro but even slower flash duration) with internal Pocketwizard Radio Card. The Bowens /Calumet 750R flash duration is almost the same in slow flash duration as your Dynalite Uni400JR, full-power, (1/650sec @t.05 at full power) minimum is a even slower duration but no info published for the slow durations on this monolight.

After reading your post I will have to retest, I couldnt get even near 1/8000s or let alone 1/2000s. I am not using any "speedlight FP/HSS high-speed hack,"... its studio strobe only. Sadly the highest flash sync I could get a "clean shot" was about 1/400s although I will take even that as its better than 1/250s. I believe I did set it at level 8 which should be correct at the lowest power setting. Not sure what (-) offset value I used in Canon Utility so again I will have to retest. Not that it matters because every camera/strobe combo is different with PW Hypersync but what offset # did you use for your Dynalite ?

Now you got me interested in retesting Pocketwizard Hypersync lol :) ...have to find some still life to shoot.

studio460 · February 25, 2012

Rob said:

. . . I had nowhere near your luck when doing these Pocketwizard Hypersync tests last year . . . The Bowens/Calumet 750R flash duration is almost the same in slow flash duration as your Dynalite Uni400JR, full-power, (1/650sec @t.05 at full power) . . . Now you got me interested in retesting Pocketwizard Hypersync . . .

</blockquote>

Test away, Rob! I'd be interested in seeing what you get from your Bowens. Yes, I had forgotten that the Bowens also has a fairly long flash duration. I'm surprised you didn't achieve similar results. I'm in the middle of demoing a shower right now, and of all things, asking about "oakum/lead joints" on a plumbers' forum (sheesh!). Hope I can shoot some more tests later today myself.

rodeo_joe1 · February 25, 2012

I've just had a crazy idea for extending the period of a flash and maybe getting better FP coverage. I noticed some time ago that white Melamine covered chipboard will phosphoresce and glow for some considerable time after being hit with a flash. I'm wondering if bouncing a flash off some Melamine board will be enough to emit a secondary glow and effectively extend the flash duration?

Too tired and too late to try it right now.

studio460 · February 25, 2012

Wow! That's thinking outside the box, Joe! Way outside! Of course, we're only talking a few milliseconds.

studio460 · February 25, 2012

Now, some of you may be asking, "What's the point?" Well, my personal goal is to fully understand what my particular gear is capable of producing. The one application where one would benefit specifically from an optimized HyperSync exposure is a daylight exterior requiring a motion-freezing shutter speed, admittedly, a rather limited application. Most every other application would be more simply solved with either more Watt-seconds, or an ND filter, or both.

In the previously linked thread regarding the "high-speed FP hack," many astute photo.net members here, accurately and succinctly described the available techniques, and their limitations. It took me a while to absorb and understand most of what they were saying. My thanks to all who patiently explained every painful detail to me in past threads.

Again, the most obvious, and correct solution to this goal is to simply buy more Watt-seconds. But most of us are of limited means, plus, I think it's fun to squeeze every last drop of performance out of gear you already own, or from gear you're planning to own, that's both affordable, and portable. Since I don't have the budget to finance elaborate location shoots with fancy Profoto packs, generators and multiple assistants, I'm on a continuing mission to determine the most effective techniques to use when working with modestly powered monolights (e.g., 1,000Ws or less), under the most demanding daylight exterior conditions.

scott_ferris · February 25, 2012

Alternatively get some Radio Poppers or wait for Phottix to make their Odin in a Nikon version, both support true HSS. Certainly the Pocket Wizard Flex system use with the 580EX II has been plagued with major issues, not least of which would be total failure of the flash.

Dave Black is the most accomplished small strobe HSS user I have seen, his videos with the Radio Popper system and multiple SB900's really do make the Pocket Wizards seem like expensive junk. He has used eight Nikon strobes to light half an ice hockey rink, but is often on half or quarter power, so two or three would often suffice.

I have been using four and five 550EX speedlites with one as controller connected to a 50ft ETTL cord I made. I have plenty of power and full HSS functionality for around $15, plus the flashes that I had accumulated over the years anyway.

I understand the point is to make your bigger lights work within the high speed sync system, but you can never adjust the T times on the lights, even if you time the shutter perfectly you are severely limited in aperture and iso as different parts of your frame are illuminated by different sections of your lights T curve.

We all want to know our equipments limitations, but there are much easier ways of achieving true, even, high speed sync.

studio460 · February 26, 2012

Scott said:

We all want to know our equipments limitations, but there are much easier ways of achieving true, even, high speed sync.

</blockquote>

While HSS/FP mode offers even exposure, the tests I performed last year showed such a severe loss of recorded flash output, I didn't give it much consideration. Although I own some fairly long TTL cables myself, corded flash sync is simply impractical for many applications. Are you suggesting some other technique I haven't mentioned?

studio460 · February 26, 2012

Nevermind. I assume you're referring to the use of HSS/FP high-speed "hack" (where you connect a Speedlight to your hot-shoe, then trigger another flash via your PC terminal, either optically, electrically, or by RF).

scott_ferris · February 26, 2012

No I wasn't referring to a hack.

I was saying I use multiple, cheap, HSS capable Speedlites, I use a long cable and there are few places where a 100ft one can't be implemented, but both Radio Popper and Phottix make fully HSS enabled wireless systems to do that at long range for Canon.

I paid $125 each for my last two 550EX's, I can gang them in soft boxes and I get plenty of power, and certainly much better than your big light uneven-ness, yes you lose power going to HSS with Speedlites, but at $125 a pop it isn't that difficult to get more power back.

I am not dissing your work or testing, just pointing out that you don't necessarily need to use your sledgehammer to crack this nut for many applications.

studio460 · February 26, 2012

Scott said:

I paid $125 each for my last two 550EX's, I can gang them in soft boxes and I get plenty of power, and certainly much better than your big light uneven-ness, yes you lose power going to HSS with Speedlites, but at $125 a pop it isn't that difficult to get more power back.

</blockquote>

I wish Nikon Speedlights were that cheap. I did get lucky, and bought four Nikon SB-600s on sale at Best Buy, plus, I had a 10% coupon, and they came out to about $160 each, plus tax (I should 've bought more!). I would buy more SB-800s, but they sell for more used, than they were new. For the price of a used SB-800, I could buy a brand new 400Ws AC monolight, and still have money left over.

studio460 · February 26, 2012

PocketWizard MiniTT1/FlexTT5 firmware utility v1.35 Nikon v3.003 firmware release Body: Nikon D3s Strobe: Quantum Qflash Model T, full-power; t.5 = 1/300th

P2 HyperSync flash duration value programmed on FlexTT5 = 10 (slow)

f/22 @ 1/250th (x-sync)

f/16 @ 1/500th

f/11 @ 1/1,000th

f/8 @ 1/2,000th

f/5.6 @ 1/4,000th

f/4.0 @ 1/8,000th

ian_casement · February 27, 2012

Hi Ralph,

I think you need to go back to basics with your shutter offset.

With the T2 and D3 you should be able to achieve a pretty clean frame. Although the T2 has a 1/300s t.5 which is a little faster than the X5DR's @ 400ws I normally use - you should get a pretty even coverage AND a shutter free image.

I think you need to reconsider your camera timing offset. Nothing you do with your flash duration setting will change the fact that you're getting a shutter shadow from your camera. This needs to be adjusted in your Hypersync offset tab before you then time your remote flash.

How I suggest you do it is with a fast speedlight in a remote TT5 set to whatever PW recommend as the setting for this. After a few trials you should get a clean frame at all shutter speeds at full power. That is.. clean frame, not necessarily graduation free. Once you have this set, your shutter shadow should be banished.

After that, then move onto setting your flash duration tab.

I don't have the PW ControlTL so I can't tell you the details for your offsets as they've changed since I used them, but what I can tell you is that - with the capability of adjusting the sync and flash duration timings you should at least have a clean shutter free image. My offsets with a D3x were -1880.. D3 users reported -1440 as optimum. You'll just have to try.

Here is a quick shot I just did of my ceiling with a D3x fitted with a D adapter and a FreeXwire transmitter triggering a remote T5D-R, this is at 1/8000s f2.8, with no offsets applied anywhere. The radio is just using the Nikon FP shutter timing.. the image is practically shadow free :

ian_casement · February 28, 2012

On second thoughts.. why are you trying to optimise your shutter timing when if using FP mode timing it is already optimised for you?

All you really need to do is transmit the FP mode timing to your remote T2. Simply don't use Hypersync and only use the default HSS/FP mode. If you do want to use Hypersync and optimise for a speedlight or fast duration flash set your switch over to FP/HSS at the point you can no longer achieve any further benefit from this. If you plan on using speedlights that'll do what you're trying to achieve, if not, just use the default HSS/FP. It's there already.

studio460 · February 28, 2012

Ian said:

Here is a quick shot I just did of my ceiling with a D3x fitted with a D adapter and a FreeXwire transmitter triggering a remote T5D-R, this is at 1/8000s f2.8, with no offsets applied anywhere. The radio is just using the Nikon FP shutter timing.. the image is practically shadow free:

</blockquote>

I'm impressed!

studio460 · February 28, 2012

Ian said:

All you really need to do is transmit the FP mode timing to your remote T2. Simply don't use Hypersync and only use the default HSS/FP mode.

</blockquote>

I'll give that a try! Thanks for all your help!

studio460 · November 14, 2014

Sorry for all the broken image links (I dumped some server-based files by mistake). I came across this old thread and thought I'd at least add a link to some updated HyperSync tests I recently performed. These new tests are more controlled and better-documented. Also, the current (as of November 2014) PocketWizard Mini TT1/Flex TT5 firmware for Nikon cameras was used in these tests, v3.700:

<a href="http://lightbasics.com/pocketwizard-hypersync-long-duration-flash-tests/">http://lightbasics.com/pocketwizard-hypersync-long-duration-flash-tests/</a>

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2012 PocketWizard HyperSync Nikon 3.003 firmware tests:

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