35mm manual camera recommendation?

[darya_a1]

<p>I am looking for a 35mm manual camera that will allow for manual metering. I am an amateur photographer and shoot mostly digital (D300). I was recently given a Yachica Electro 35 but that is aperture priority only, from what I can tell.<br>

So I'm looking for another 35mm. I would also like it to have a light meter. I've looked at the Ae-1p (which I think is the one that allows for manual metering) but read some things about the light meter not working well? I may be wrong on this. any suggestions? I really want something that will give that more vintage look. <br>

thank you.</p>

 

[georg_s1]

<p>It's the lens that will give your pictures the more vintage look - or not.<br /> I would look out for a fast lens of the 60s or 70s - a Nikkor-S Auto 1.4/50mm for instance.<br /> With it's rather strong vignetting, not very sharp or contrasty rendering wide open it will make the pictures stand-out. This lens can be found with the original F-mount for use with the Nikon F, F2 and earlier Nikkormat-cameras and Ai-converted for the use with later cameras like the FM/FM-2, FE, FE-2 and so on.<br /> Hope this helps, Georg!</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>If you have a Nikon D300, the most obvious choice would be a Nikon, like the FM, FM2, FM2n, or FM3a. Doesn't need an unavailable mercury battery. The FM is the most flexible, you can stop-down meter with non-AI lenses, and full aperture meter with AI lenses. Later models require AI lenses. <br>

Any manual focus lenses you buy for the film Nikon would also work on your D300, it's one of the more expensive Nikon DLSRs that aren't deliberately crippled with older lenses. (See chart <a href="http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm">here</a>.)<br>

The autofocus film Nikon cameras are also pretty cheap used, but can have more lens compatibility issues. Not really native to use them in manual-metering mode, however.</p>

[craigd]

<p>With vintage cameras, sometimes the light meters no longer work, or are no longer accurate, so be sure that the one you get is still fully functional and accurate.</p>

<p>There are so many good choices for 35mm film cameras it's not even funny. The Canon AE-1 Program is a good choice, but since you already have a Nikon D300, I would suggest sticking with Nikon, because your D300 will be able to use most older Nikon F-mount SLR lenses. Look for Nikkor AI or AI-S primes. The following set will give you an excellent range of options: 16mm f/2.8 fisheye, 20mm f/4, 28mm f/2, 35mm f/1.4, 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/2, 105mm f/2.5, 135mm f/2.8, 200mm f/4. Pick whatever of those focal lengths appeal to you and have fun. For the camera body, a Nikon FM or FE (or FM2 or FE2) will cost you less than the professional series (F, F2, F3, etc.) while giving you every feature you really need. </p>

<p>I don't entirely agree with Georg that the lens is solely responsible for "the vintage look." Part of that "look" results from shooting film rather than digital, because film reacts to light differently than a digital sensor, and different films render differently as well. For B&W shooting, Kodak Tri-X is the classic. For color slides, Fuji Provia gives very realistic but strong color, while Velvia, which tends to exaggerate reds, makes for unmatchable sunsets but does awful things to skin tones.</p>

[darya_a1]

<p>what is the difference between these 35mm cameras and an SLR like the F80 or F100?</p>

[lilly_w]

<p>By all means, stay with and build on your Nikon system of lenses. As for that vintage look, the Nikon F2 is hard to beat. The specific metering prism I'd suggest is the DP-12, which makes for an F2AS, a classic in every sense. See this recent thread for photos of various older Nikons: <a href="00ZZF0">http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00ZZF0</a></p>

[darya_a1]

<p>by the way, I realize the F80 and F100 are 35mm as well. I just am wondering what the biggest differences are with those two and the ones recommended above (like the FM, FM2, etc).<br>

thanks</p>

[craigd]

<p>Darya: Since the question was asked concerning vintage lenses and the examples given (Yashica Electro 35 and Canon AE-1 Program) are vintage manual-focus cameras, most of us have recommended other vintage manual-focus cameras of the 1960s to early 1980s. The F80 and F100 are autofocus cameras from the 1990s.</p>

[darya_a1]

<p>ok I understand. thank you!</p>

[georg_s1]

<p>Darya,<br /> the classic Nikons mentioned above (FM, FM2, FE, F2 and so on) will work without batteries (except automatic-exposure (FE/FE2) or lightmeter (FM/FM2)), the F80/F100 with Autofocus, built-in winder/motordrive are dead without battery. If you use the same lens on a FM from 1977 and a F100 from 1999 (assuming they have the same film in it) the resulting pictures will be identical. Some Nikon-bodies (F3HP, F90, F100 to name a few) have a „high-eyepoint”-finder - a good feature in my opinion (you don't have to squeeze your eye against the eyepiece and still can see the whole frame).<br /> A good F3HP, F90, F100 can be found for a good price, the F2AS as something like a cult-object is more expensive. <br /> A F3HP or FM2 would make a great combo with many classic-Nikkor-lenses (Ai-converted) and a film like Tri-X.</p>

[lachaine]

<p>Any 35mm SLR made by any company will do what you want, no matter whether it was a top of the line pro Nikon of the time, or a Zenit. There's no such thing as a best camera. There is also no such thing as a vintage look. Vintage looks are achieved by the photographer, not the camera. Using a "vintage" camera does not give you a "vintage" look.</p>

[Richard Williams]

<p>It's a different experience shooting with one of the older manual everything cameras, which may or may not appeal to you. Choosing, say, the F100 would mean you could use the camera in almost exactly the same way as your D300, fully manual or fully automatic, just shooting film. Most lenses made since 1977 will be compatible with both, except the 'DX' range intended only for digital. All these lenses will also fit the F80/N80, though it won't meter with most manual focus lenses.</p>

<p>If you want to try even older pre-1977 lenses ('pre AI' lenses) the original FM (not the later FM2) works with just about any Nikon lens that has an aperture ring. It will even work with (but not autofocus) many older AF lenses (excluding the 'G' lenses, which lack aperture rings, and of course the 'DX' lenses). This camera has no automation at all, so you'll always need to set everything yourself.</p>

<p>For me, the 'vintage look' is mostly about film and processing choices. If you want a clearly different 'look' from a lens, you may have to go back a bit further and look at other manufacturers. An old screwmount Leica with a Summar or Elmar lens is good for this sort of thing, though rather tricky to use at first. An SLR with an M42 mount (various manufacturers) might be easier to handle, and would let you use a very wide range of older lenses (try a Zeiss Tessar). There are many other options, of course.</p>

[red_robin]

<p>Darya A Going Leica with a pre-war Carl Ziess Jena lens will get you that vintage look . However, it comes at a cost- a high one. You might consider a lower cost Canon RF kit and put your money into vintage glass and there's a lot of good glass out there. The M-39 systems been with us a long time and pristine lenses are still turning up in grandpa's closet. brought home from WWII. Good luck and happy hunting.</p>

[plasma181]

<p>Most of my portfolio was shot with a Nikon FM3a and scanned into digital files. </p>

[Andy Collins]

<p>While staying with Nikon makes the most logical sense, there are plenty of other brands/models you can play around with that won't cost you very much at all. Canon FD bodies and lenses are plentiful and not very expensive to start with, and the Olympus OM system is a fantastic starting point as well without spending too much. Consider a Canon FTb or an Olympus OM-1 or OM-2. Both of these are wonderful classics that can be bought for pretty cheap prices but perform beautifully. Minolta bodies and the Rokkor lenses that accompany them are also quite inexpensive but deliver first-class results.</p>

[chuck_foreman1]

Well Richard W said most of what I wanted to say and his suggestion is a good one! I have an M42 Tessar from the early 50s it does have a neat look especially in color thanks to it's early coating I suspect. I recently shot some photos for a photog friend he wrote bakc love that "analog vibe" my gear was vintage 1980s but really!! If you want a vintage look get something older. The notion that older fast lenses wide open has a unique special look compared to digital is true, but you need to combine them with film for the real mcCoy