rainer_viertlb_ck Posted November 20, 2002 Share Posted November 20, 2002 does a minolta color meter IIIf show the colors of an 21" monitor exactly enough to calibrate the monitor coors? i dont want to spent so much money in a calibration sensor as they cost......does anyone know a solution which is cheaper and also exactly,- the colormeter i own and it measure the monitor output......thanks for helping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis_vener_photography Posted November 20, 2002 Share Posted November 20, 2002 No.<P> If using a Macintosh, usethe built in colorsync software. it i betterthan nothing but to calibrate and create a profile to make sure that what you see is what indeed is in the file, you need the hardware/software combination. if you are using a CRT monior, <A HREF = http://www.colorvision.com>ColorVision</A> is or was running a CRT monitor only special on PhotoCal + Spyder ($159?) and on the more powerful OptiCal + Spyder combination. Why is calibrating and profiling important?<P> Because if you are not looking a dead neutral monitor you really don't know what you are looking at.<P>Because as you get more advanced in Photoshop and learn how to use the Soft Proofing feature of Adobe Photoshop, you'll be able to preview vry closely what the final print will look like before you print it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_schietzsch Posted November 25, 2002 Share Posted November 25, 2002 I've done this experiment, and have found that while it certainly does not produce a true profile (I'm agreeing with Ellis here) it *IS* useful in terms of hardware calibration, which you can then fine-tune much more effectively with colorsync and the monitor calibration control panel. I have a Sun/Sony 20" Trinitron, and a 17" Viewsonic on the side that I use for palettes and such. To make the two match as closely as possible BEFORE software calibration, I did what you're proposing, and it worked far better than my attempts using the software utility alone. My method was to make a 21 step greyscale file in Photoshop. Because it was generated from the numbers I typed in, I knew that the color should be exactly neutral; any deviation was due to my monitor. Then I measured each patch and tweaked the monitor's R, G, and B guns until there was no magenta-green or warm-cold crossover from highlight to shadow. It took a few iterations until the curve was neutral, but this was WAY better than "out of the box." So, NO, it doesn't generate a true profile, but it DOES help; with some monitors, it helps a lot: I tried this on a brand new NEC monitor being installed at our local RCMP forensics lab, and it was incapable of being adjusted enough to be neutral. With the controls maxed out, there was considerable warnth in highlights if shadows were neutral, or we got blue shadows if highlights were adjusted to be neutral. We replaced it with another brand, which was within 3 CC points of perfect, right out of the box! I used a Gossen Colormaster; I imagine a Minolta would be no different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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