Need help with brush painting on layer mask - PSE9

[dspindle]

<p>I have been learning hand-HDR, and while I understand how to stack layers, create layer masks and paint on the mask, the technique of painting with a brush at low opacity has me confused.<br>

I've heard that using an opacity setting for my brush of around 20% is best, because this will allow me to slowly build up the image the way I want it to look. <br>

How do I brush at 20%? Overlap of brush strokes is inevitable, and each overlap will result in a "hot spot" of 40% or more. It seems like a good idea, but I must be missing something. <br>

Thanks!<br>

Dave</p>

[sheldonnalos]

<p>I've never gotten used to painting with low opacity either. I use 100% opacity and a very low flow rate. It also helps a LOT to use a Wacom tablet, if you aren't already.</p>

[jcuknz]

<p>I think I am right in saying that you don't get a hot spot unless you release your finger on the mouse. If I only wanted 10% I would apply more stokes at a lower density to gradually build up the density required.<br>

BUT better for eveness is to make a selection and then flood fill at various densities until you reach the desired result. If you flood fill at 50% and it is wrong flood filling at 40% will correct the error.<br>

If you make a selection onto another layer you can threshold it to get a B&W and then use magic wand to make a selection of that area and flood fill that selected area on the correction mask at various densities until you get the result you want.<br>

You can work on another layer while watching and moving the mouse over the first layer.<br>

I hope I'm not suggesting things you already know about :-)<br>

Note ... I'm never quite sure what people are talking about with masks and use adjustment layers in my editing.</p>

[dspindle]

<p>Thanks for the responses! It's probably something best learned by watching someone actually do it. Oh well, I'll keep at it!<br>

Sheldon, I'd love a Wacom...is there one you recommend?<br>

Thanks again!<br>

Dave</p>

[sheldonnalos]

<p>I like the Intuos 3 and Intuos 4 for the extra configurable buttons, but just about any of them will work. A used Intuos3 or a new Bamboo is a good value.</p>

[dspindle]

<p>Thank you, Sheldon!</p>

[emil_ems5]

<p>Like you, I have always felt uncomfortable with using brush strokes at less than 100% opacity. Instead, I always start by painting black with 100% opacity on a layer mask, and then applying two alternative techniques to tone down the effect:<br>

(1) If, after shading selected parts of the picture shows that too much of the desired effect of the adjustment layer has been hidden away, in a uniform manner, I just lower the opacity of the layer mask itself to bring back some of the desired the effect.<br>

(2) If only part of the hidden areas should be brought back in effect, I just repaint those parts with a brush of less than 100% opacity (painting white instead of black). This is much easier than it sounds, since a small shadowed part can lightened in that way by "covering" it with a larger brush circle and then just clicking once with the brush. I usually start with opacity 50% and repeat the exercise until I get what I want.</p>

[dspindle]

<p>Emil, thank you! Your point #(1) is also what I have been doing. #(2) is interesting, and I will give it a try...thanks very much!</p>

<p>Dave</p>