Grand Teton, Yellowstone and Glacier trip

[l_j_cappleman]

<p>I returned from a vacation/wildlife picture taking trip that lasted the whole month of September and covered the Grand Teton, Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks. I also spent a few days in northeast Utah shooting some Indian pictographs and petroglyphs This was my first trip to that region since I acquired my 7D and 500mm lens. My most used lenses were the 500, 70-200 and 24-105. The 17-40 was used for some scenic shots and I shot some wildlife with the 300 (just for old times sake). I got shots of elk, moose, wolves, grizzly bear, black bear, mountain goats, bighorn rams and ewes, coyotes and, of course, buffalo. I had been to that area many times but had not been able to get shots of bighorn rams so that was a great addition to my “collection”. <br>

Now for the bad parts. The berry crop in that area had a late frost and it killed most of the berry buds. I got that from numerous local sources and, from what I saw, it must be true. This is bad for two reasons- the bears will have more trouble fattening up for hibernation and the photo opportunities were greatly reduced.<br>

Next, the Goat Lick at Glacier was not productive at all. It appeared to me that they had mud slides that covered many of the places where goats went to lick minereals in the cliffs and where they were previously plentiful. A ranger said that they only came in the spring but that has not been my experience. Most rangers seem to know what they are talking about and are very helpful but some few feel like they have to say something whether it is right or not.<br>

Now for the really bad news. The elk and moose photo opportunities were greatly less than I have experienced in the past. There appeared to be fewer animals and those that were there seemed more alert and extremely cautious. In the Madison River valley of Yellowstone(where elk are usually plentiful) the population may be down as much as 90%. According to one ranger, if the elk population continues to decrease at the current rate, within three years there will be no elk in that valley. The same was true , but to a much lesser extent, in the Grand Tetons. The universal answer as to why is wolves. According to some of the wildlife people the wolf population in the area is seven times what Parks and Wildlife deems appropriate. As usual, when we try to “fix” something we go overboard in the opposite direction.<br>

I know this will stir some controversy but I thought people planning trips to that region should be informed as to what to expect and could make their own inquiries.</p>

[tonybynum]

sounds like you had an okay trip even with your lack of good information. I must say, for someone

chastising a park official for giving you what you think is bad information (glacier park goat lick

example) you're quick to latch onto the yellowstone wolf information from similar sources like it was

fact. You have to take everything you hear or read with a grain of salt, even what you get from me,

wildlife are wild . . . there one day gone the next. . .

 

I've been a professional commercial outdoor nature and wildlife photographer www.tonybynum.com

(making my entire living as a photographer) residing in the region you described for 11 years - i live in

glacier park - www.glacierparkphotographer.com and the fact is the goats mainly use the lick in the

spring as is the case at most all licks in the Rockies from northern BC clear to Colorado. . . I also

photographed in all the locations you described and I think your main problem might be your misunderstanding of wildlife or maybe your lack of persistence. I think saying "i did not find the elk and

goats in the numbers i had expected or experienced in the past," would have been a good post.

 

Sure you'll find a goat now and then in the summer but their diet demands minerals in the spring - read

Chadwicks book "the beast the color of winter." Chadwick happens to live here in glacier and is

friend of mine who also is a leading authority on wolverines. Really, goats right now are moving

toward their traditional rutting and wintering grounds, not the licks! Bighorn sheep are doing the same.

. .

The information you received about wolves and berries are both relatively accurate. The berry crop

was horrible but that does not mean the bears up and died off or completely left . . . in fact it means

they are just as locatable if you know where to look. I was in glacier for about 6 hours on saturday

morning - about 3 miles from my house and found 5 bears, three blacks, and two grizzlies and one

black and one grizz were within 300 yards of one another. I later went up many glacier and found 3

bears from the road. . . all adults.

 

Now the wolves. The wolves have no doubt taken a lot of elk, and add moose to that equation too. That

said, they are hunting elk in teton national park right now as we speak due to over population. The

truth in both cases, yellowstone and the tetons is that elk do what elk do when they are pressured by

their natural predator. For sure they spend less time loafing around in large numbers. Again, there is

no disputing the fact the there are fewer elk along the madison due to wolves. There also is no

disputing the fact that there are ample opportunities to photograph all of the big game species if you

know where to look and when to be there . . .

 

In closing, I have found, over the years, that good abundant photographic opportunities come and they

go but for people who have to feed themselves with sales working harder and going longer is the key

to bringing home the images. In my view, wildlife photography is done better when there are not

crowds of people standing near a road shooting the same animal doing the same thing all day long . . . Lastly, I think you are 100% right that this year there seemed to be fewer elk standing around by the

roads, this was true from alberta to colorado . . . but you know what, i saw more moose than ever . . .

hmmm . . . . wonder what that means . . . or maybe i should be asking myself "how come wolves dont

eat moose?" The wolf population is out of control - no doubt - but opportunities are still abundant for

fantastic wildlife photography in all the places you were . . .

 

Cheers!

[l_j_cappleman]

<p>Tony,I said this would bring controversy and I agree with a lot of what you said. However it is my personal opinion that the ranger who gave the goat information was not truly familiar with the area. When I asked her what condition the road to Polebridge was, she replied "Its all paved". Not true. <br>

I have photographing and hunting wildlife since the mid 1950's. I have been going to the Grand Teton/Yelowstone area since the mid 1960's. Granted, I have been to Glacier only 3 times but the first two times I saw at least 10 goats at Goat Lick and that was at the same time of year. I may have just been lucky the first two times and may have the wrong impression but that is my experience,<br>

As to the bears. I was just commenting on the berry crop and expressing a hope that the lack of which would not adversly affect mortality. <br>

In my original statements I listed the primary animals that I got pictures of. I got the pictures-it just seemed harder to get what I wanted. I am not a professional photographer but I thoroughly enjoy my hobby and wanted to share my concerns that people returning to especially the Grand Teton/Yellowstone area might have to work harder to get pictures than they have in the past.</p>

[tonybynum]

okay, you make my point, your experience is your own, wildlife are wild, they are where they are, one day

is great the next it's not . . . and so on. There are cycles. Things have been better for road shooters, not

doubt . . . your post implied that it's no good and that the rangers, at least in glacier park dont know what

they are talking about yet the one's in yellowstone know the truth . . . in any event, things are harder these days but gear makes it possible for hobbiests to get some good shots. You had your experience and the goats dont use the goat lick in late summer very often, it's not something i would bank on for a wildlife safi that's for sure! So we agree, Things vary from one year to the next depending on weather and other local conditions, and that there are lots of wildlife and in some places you just need to get off the raod a bit more . . . good luck to you. . .

[drjoder]

<p>I was there in September and had a similar impression about the lack of wildlife--but it could very well have been me not being in the right places, too--so it is merely anecdotal evidence. Check out the March 2010 issue of National Geographic. There is an interesting article in there about what the introduction of the wolf has done to the entire ecosystem. Everything is interconnected...apparently you can even credit the resurgence of the beaver to the wolf. Down here in Rocky Mountain National Park we have elk herds that are abnormally large and passive likely because there are no predators...so they eat whatever aspen shoots that aren't fenced in, etc. Maybe we could borrow a wolf pack from Yellowstone for a bit? : ) Here is a link to that article: <a href="http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2010/03/wolf-wars/chadwick-text/1">http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2010/03/wolf-wars/chadwick-text/1</a></p>

[kerry_grim]

Being from Pennsylvania, my comments regarding predator/prey numbers in the west are for the most

part not made with the information the locals have. That being said, I trust the biologist’s studies more

so than the general public. National parks are supposed to be owned by all of us, so I do feel I should

be able to comment as I please.

 

I question the comment about wolf numbers being seven times of what they should be. Who makes that

judgment…likely the anti-wolf people? Here in Pennsylvania, hunters do not want predators. They want

an overpopulation of deer and are not satisfied unless there is a deer behind every tree. Is it more

important for photographers to have an overpopulation of prey, like elk, for photography than it is to have

a balanced environment?

 

The number of predators is determined by the availability of prey. It is NOT the other way around. It just

well may be that wolf numbers are higher than the availability of prey, but if that is the case, the high

wolf numbers will crash or lower to match that of the prey.

 

Another observation I see in Pennsylvania which likely applies to the Yellowstone area...every time a

species is considered to be reduced in numbers, ALWAYS, the answer a single reason and an

"appropriate" predator is selected. It is never, ever that simple. As an example, Ring-necked Pheasant

numbers have long ago crashed. This formerly common species is not very uncommon, and if I see or

hear one or two a year, I am lucky. The hunters blamed Red-tailed Hawks. Nothing else. Over time, the

Pennsylvania Game Commission proved it was not Red-tailed Hawks at all. The habitat has been

severely fragmented, and with that, roads, dogs, cats, etc. Now, basically without the pheasants, Red-

tailed Hawks are a common nesting species, having adapted to human activities quite well. Farmers

have come to accept Red-tailed Hawks on their farms. Why, because of the destruction done by the

voles. I think now the majority of hunters know what a vole is. However, years ago if I would mention

voles to hunters they would think I was making it up! “There is no such thing”. If Red-railed Hawks

depended on Pheasants, then, how is it that the pheasants are gone, but the Red-tails have prospered?

Hence I repeat the above statement:

 

The number of predators is determined by the availability of prey.

 

It is my understanding that the ecosystem in Yellowstone is in better shape because of the wolves. It is

much more than wolves reducing the elk numbers. With a non-overpopulation of elk, the grass and

vegetation is return to "normal", and that effects much more.

 

The goal I would like to see is a balanced ecosystem. I do not hunt, but support hunting. Hunters can

and have been a big part of the balance, but I see little reason why predators should not be allowed to

partake in that balance also.

 

It is great that wolves have returned to Glacier NP without having to be introduced. I am at odds about

wolves being introduced to the Yellowstone area and feel if they should be there they would have

returned on their own. Although, have they not returned on their own anyway? I believes so, but am not

certain of that.

 

I have not been to Yellowstone. If I went there and was unsuccessful at photographing elk, then so be it.

To want an overpopulation of Elk so I have a subject to photograph would be very selfish. It would also

be selfish for hunters to want overpopulation so they have something to hunt. The goal I believe should

be a balanced ecosystem. With that, hunters can take elk and photographers can also have their

subjects for photography. It just may be a bit more challenging, but there is nothing wrong with that.

[al_derickson]

<p>I will put a word in about Park Rangers because I had the privilege of being one at Glacier many years ago. The vast majority of the Rangers who have regular contact with visitors are seasonals, spending perhaps three months in the park during the summer. I vividly remember my first day on the job. Although I had crammed with studying park material before I came, and we had been given a comprehensive tour of the park when I arrived, my knowledge about lots of things was very limited and i was very scared. Some seasonals, mainly teachers, return year after year and build up a considerable store of knowledge. Most though, like I was, are students in natural resources and only have those temporary jobs a year or two.</p>

[carl_becker2]

<p>Many well said posts here. IMHO nature decides what is to much for a given animal population, although man impacts this greatly by changing the environment and elimanating species. Nature will compensate this in many ways. And all Park Rangers may not have the same knowledge level.</p>

[images_in_light_north_west]

<p>I was there in July and saw an abundance of all the species you mentioned, we have had a very late summer out west and flowers where coming up in late September in the mountains and fall color is only now getting started in some areas, I think a lot of this is seasonal and animals live by the weather not the calender. Try again next year and it may be a different story.</p>

<p>Ross</p>

[johnolsen]

I just got back from the Tetons and my experience there was different than yours. Plenty of animals were

there to photograph. Lots of moose if you know where to look. The elk were present but very skittish as

usual. I saw beaver for the first time, river otters, deer, eagles, pronghorn, bison, eagles - and black

bears of course. But after spending lots of time looking for bears 399 and 652 I could not find them. So

no grizzlies, but everything else was there.

[tonybynum]

in fact the moose road was closed due to a grizzly . . .

[images_in_light_north_west]

<p>John, what is the condition of fall color ?<br>

Ross</p>

[tonybynum]

get there this week and you're golden! peaking now!

[johnolsen]

<p>I was there last week and the color was amazing. Had to be peak or close. The best I have seen.</p>

[michael_watt1]

<p>LJ<br>

Hello, if I could put in my 2 cents worth. First off I live in West Yellowstone. West gate of Yellowstone Park. I have lived here for 10+ years now. So as for the elk in the Madison valley. Well believe it or not part of it or alot of it is because of wolf. People do not realize how much of an impact these wolves are having on all animals. They dont always kill for food. They also kill for sport. This is coming about slowly. They will take down an elk and take one bit and be done with it. Studies are still being completed. Also that herd of elk in the madison are dying off due to their teeth falling out and wearing down at an extremely fast rate. This is due to the large amount of flouride in the Madison River. They are basically starving to death. As for the moose in the Tetons, well, here is no expert opinion but, here I go. Weather patterns are showing that the summer season is starting later in the year and that fall is not starting till later in the year. So everything is being pushed back a month or so. They usually do go to higher elevation in the warmer season. So at the time that us humans are use to seeing them is not happening due to PARTIALLY becuase of weather. And they are shy animals. Hunters around here are not filling their tags till late season. Their has not been the snow levels to push them down till late. So some of this is fact and some is my opinon and others from living here. The fall colors were great for me this year. I was there last weekend. I finally timed it just right. WOOHOO. As far as the rangers, well, I dont know what to tell you from that. Most of the rangers in the area (doesnt matter if it is Tetons, Yellowstone or Glacier) are year round residents and know what is going on. But there is another hand to that as well. If you want to screw up a national forest or park, let the government control it. This whole wolf thing, yeah, the government wont actually come out and say it, but, they have mumbled under their breath things like, the wolf thing was a mistake. What do we do know? etc. etc. They didnt think it was going to go this far. Dont get me wrong, I love the parks and the national forests and love that they are there for our enjoyment. No I am not, a so called "Tree Huger". I just happen to see and witness both sides. I see and hear more here than any person coming to visit would. There is so much controversy here it is pathetic. So on a good note, Cheers.</p>