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Is this typical "vignette" for Nocilux wide-open


matt_sachs

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Greetings, All:

 

The attached photograph is no prize-winner, but it illustrates a

problem I am having with a Noctilux lens at f1. Specifically, not

only is there vignetting, but there are color-shifts that do not

correspond to the vignette. Is this performance typical for the lens?

I purchased mine used and do not know whether it is example-specific.

 

Thank you,

 

Matt<div>0045j1-10333084.jpg.b4c4985ed687b1ac556243de2ec60b69.jpg</div>

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I'm still wondering if some stray light isn't getting through a the shutter somehow, with the big f1.0 lens opening collecting just enough light for it to show up. Do a test: With the camera set at f1.0, aim it towards some bright lights (not the sun!)for a few moments, then take a shot with the cap on/in the dark on that frame. Check later to see if any light shows up on that particular negative.
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The vertical color shifts happen with certain types of electrcal lighting AND when using a SLOW speed focal plane shutter like the Leica M has. I get the same effect at our local indoor hockey rink when using my Leica M; my friends Leica; or THREE of my Zorki,s and my Russian FED too. This effect doesnt happen with my Nikon F as much; and is missing with my Nikkormat; or Bessa R; or ANY leaf shutter camera I have ever used there. The effect happens with all lenses; and never happens with normal lighting outdoors.<BR><BR>Some indoor lighting has an output that varies radically over the 60 cycle AC sine wave. The Leica synch speed is close to the 60 cycle period; and one gets a weird banding. I have noted this for 5 years here at our hockey rink. I will post a photo.
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Cropped section of above frame hides the vertical bands. <BR><BR>There is not shutter problem; all speeds are ok. <BR><BR>Shutter speed for photo 1/250 sec.<BR><BR>Problem doesnt happen at all rinks! and doesnt happen at the local new basketball court either!<BR><BR><IMG SRC="http://www.ezshots.com/members/tripods/images/tripods-182.jpg">
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Dear Kelly,

 

Thank you for providing these data. It seems that your explanation covers why the problem would "disappear" when I stopped down the lens because I reduced the high shutter speed (1/500) -- things got better as shutter remained open longer, presumably because the synch issue improved. It also explains the arbitrary positioning of the bands on different frames of the same section of arena.

 

Matt

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Matt; try your camera body and lens under different lighting; Your photo sure appears like the gremlin I have been researching the last 5 years! Better arenas and sporting lighting has the load/lighting banks on three separate AC phases; if they have 3 phase power (most all do) . When the lighting is on three different phases; the ripple variation is smoothed out; and color problems will be greatly reduced. Another benefit is reduced eye strain.
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Matt; most of my hockey shots at 1/250 have the band; sometimes I do shoot at 1/500 and 1/100 too. The band really shows up on the white ice alot! <BR><BR>With my Russian Lennigrad LTM motor drive camera; the banding is REALLY horrid. Maybe the shutter transit time is slightly different than the Leica. <BR><BR>Got to scoot; will recheck this thread in the morning. <BR><BR><B>I posted these same two photos with a question about "Have any banding problems with Leica M shutter with certain Lighting?" and the thread got zilch for responses last summer; and got deleted as a useless thread!</b>
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Nice piece of collaborative diagnosis by Drs. Sachs and Flanigan!

 

I've seen the inverse effect appear with HIGH sync speed shutters (Nikon FM2, etc.) where entire neon signs disappeared because they were in the 'off' stage of the 60Hz cycle as the shutter slit exposed them.

 

The corner vignetting DOES look Noctilux-normal.

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