bill_brooks Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 <p>Decided to post what is essentially a technique question in the Nikon forum because I own and love the d7000, which has so many variables of auto focus available. Would like to shoot as-well-focused-as possible hummingbirds at a nectar feeder, from a tripod setup with wireless remote, as best possible. I do not need necessarily to freeze the high speed action of their wings.</p> <p>Any suggestions as to best autofocus setting and other settings? I have played with several variables with not such great luck so far...lighting is quite good but not full sun.</p> <p>..also have a 24-70 Nikkor available to use.</p> <p>..and boy, do those hummingbirds move around fast; a challenging focusing subject for me!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two23 Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 <p>Here's what I think I'd try to start. Manually focus the lens at a spot you've observed the birds to like, such as hovering over an opening over a feeding tube. Use your hand or something in place of the bird, focus on it using AF, then put lens on MF. This is called "prefocussing," and usually works. I would stop down some to cover any focus errors, but I think you'd want at leat 1/1000s shutter.<br> Kent in SD</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpahnelas Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 <p>with your gear, you don't need all those fancy, complicated preparations. hummingbirds will come to the feeder if you're standing nearby -- they just don't like sudden motion. so have your rig setup on a tripod, be in place, and when the hb comes to the feeder, aim and fire. it's worked for me, so there's no reason you couldn't have similar results. incidentally, i have tried rigging up a wireless trigger setup, and kent's telling you right: you really need to prefocus if that's your strategy. otherwise i predict a lot of throw-aways and few keepers. not saying you shouldn't experiment and try your hand at it -- you may have better results than me -- but after many hours of approaching this subject, i found the simplest method seems to work best. good luck.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce_brown Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 <p>Bill: I'll add the third vote for prefocus, as starters. That said ... the D7000 ... what a camera! Experimint around, for example, whatever your focal length, stop down two from wide open, aperture priority, set autofocus C, set frame rate CL or CH, and shoot live or remote ... let Nikon show you what IT can do. Check the quality at ISO 320 and 1600 (or higher and higher) and see if you can tell the difference. Once you find 'your combo' you should be able to get shots that show their eyelashes. Best of success. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_brooks Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 <p>Kent, William, and Bruce, thanks much for your tips and insight. Pre-focus here I come!<br> And Bruce, wow, are you right about the D7000 being an amazing camera. It's been a bit intimidating getting up to speed with the capabilities, but I have to believe even very experienced hands are still finding new ways to use their D7000's long after they've gotten them. Best wishes, guys.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_brooks Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 <p>I tried pre-focusing and other tips you generously provided, and am getting better results. This is a jpeg from this evening, will work tonight on the NEF files to see what's there, but I feel I am moving in the right direction. Thanks, guys!</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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