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Bellows maintenance.


david_simonds1

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<p>Friends, I have a Toyo 45A II, my first and only LF box. It accompanies me on trips to the coast in Maine where I live. Occurred to me yesterday that perhaps I should maintain it in some fashion, whether cleaning or treating it with something to resist the salt in the air here. Suggestions?<br>

Thanks,<br>

David</p>

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<p>I am sure there is something you can do but, honestly, having several LF cameras since the early 80's I have only dusted them occasionally. If you have a real leather bellows, then maybe some conditioning would be important. (I had clients back in the 70's that made vinyl products and their research indicated that it lasted the same with or without treatment with something like Armorall. (of course, you want to keep it clean otherwise by dusting it off--don't let dust and grit sit in the folds). If I shot at the ocean most of the time, I might wipe everything down with a damp cloth occasionally though.</p>

<p>Anyway, you should periodically inspect for light leaks. There are formulas on the internet for repairing these small pinholes or you can use something like liquid electricians tape or even black fabric paint (thick stuff). The secret is to use as little as possible, you just want to plug the hole.</p>

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<p>I don't think anyone's fitted real leather bellows to anything since before the 1980s. Vinyl, or whatever they're made of, synthetic bellows are much more hardwearing (not my opinion, but that of a representative of "Custom Bellows" formerly "Camera Bellows Ltd." UK).</p>

<p>Leather bellows were and are available to special order though. Real leather needs to be fed occasionally with a solution of beeswax in turpentine or something similar. Synthetic bellows just need keeping clean. It's more important to clean the inside than the outside from a photographic point of view, since dust in the bellows increases their reflectance and thereby reduces picture contrast.</p>

<p>PS. My own recipe for dealing with small bellows holes is black indian ink and latex glue (Copydex). Mix as much indian ink as it takes to turn the Copydex black and use immediately to paint over the hole(s). Allow 24Hrs to set before using.</p>

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<p>The way I've always looked for leaks is get in a darkened room first.</p>

<p>Offer your bellows up to the light bulb hanging from the ceiling (no long tubes) so the bulb is inside the bellows...here its best IMO to have a fluorescent light as its cooler and won't risk softening any glues. Then work the bellows up and down, side to side and rotate around the bulb so every part has been stretched with you one side and the bulb directly the other side.</p>

<p>The bellows help to keep the spill down so the room will be dark enough to pick out any holes. Look especially at the outer corner folds.</p>

<p>Not a pretty description but I'm sure you get the idea.</p>

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<p>Light leaks are a pain in the arse. I got a simple light socket on a cord and put the cord through one of my lensboards and tape that light tight. Put the light inside the bellows and a film holder in the back--extend the bellows to max. Get self in a totally dark room (seal off door leaks) and wait about 5 minutes before turning on the light in the camera. (You wait till your eyes adjust to the blackness and keep the light off so you don't fry the bellows). Sometimes leaks will be immediately obvious and other times you have to flex the bellows back and forth. Really small ones will probably not matter as they are so small and faint. You are looking for those a bit more obvious.</p>

<p>I had a light leak issue and I traced it to an issue with the lensboard mounting area, not any bellows leaks. I had some very small leaks--found only by flexing the bellows--and fixed a few larger ones and left the others. I shot in the desert for a week with no problems at all, even when waiting with the dark slide pulled out for wind to die down. The smaller leaks (ones that are very faint in the procedure above) don't let enough light in to bounce around and unless they are directed at the film can be harmless. In fact, if they are in the folds, they probably don't even let any light in if you only see them flexing the bellows back and forth. It is a judgement call.</p>

<p>(note: my Linhoff Technikardan had a leather bellows but I replaced it with more modern material. It was so soft that as soon as it was in the sun it sagged horribly--and talk about getting light leaks, it was way to soft and flimsy IMO)</p>

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<p>I use Windex for cleaning the exterior of bellows unless they are extremely dirty as in have set closed for 20+ years then I use Isoproply Alcohol. After cleaning the exterior I use Pledge Natural Beauty in the yellow spray can. It works on vinyl and leather as well as a dedicated conditioner or better. Some leather conditioners leave a sticky residue (Lexol) and some vinyl conditioners will dry out the vinyl (Armorall?). When cleaning/conditioning support the bellows from the inside.</p>

<p>Tulip brand fabric paint works well to patch pin holes in bellows, apply to the bellows lining. High carbon artist acrylic paint such as Golden Carbon Black #1040-2 will work well also. </p>

<p>Checking for light leaks is best done in a darkroom with the light off. A large dark cloth over the bellows in a dimly lit room will show the larger holes but may not show the just forming ones. <br>

In a dark room with the lights off put a 40 watt appliance bulb or a similar CFL into a small lamp with the shade removed or a clamp on lamp, or use a small flashlight with fresh batteries such as a mini mag and set the focus for a spot at 2 inches. Extend the bellows fully, insert the light source into the bellows. If using a light bulb take care not to touch the inside of the bellows as the lamp will burn them. If using a flashlight run it along the seams and pleats. With the light source inside the bellows observe the outside. An existing pin hole will be white, a weak spot will be yellowish. Any hint of light is a leak that should be fixed.</p>

<p>I clean my camera exterior thoroughly after a trip to the coast as salt from the air can and will settle on it anywhere normal handling will not rub it off. </p>

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