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Ditch Nikon for Pentax?


nathan_meijer

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<p>Personally I am invested in some Nikon gear, but recently found my dad's old Pentax ME with 28/2,8 and 50/1,7 lenses and a Braun flash. The ME still seems to work even though the batteries haven't been used for what must be 15 years. I've got the following Nikon gear myself:<br>

-D3000+18-55/3,5-5,6 VR (kitlens),<br>

-35/1,8DX,<br>

-50/1,8 (doesn't autofocus on the D3000) and<br>

-55-300/4,5-5,6DX<br>

I feel that I've outgrown the D3000 as a photographer and was looking around for a D7000 until I came across my dad's old stuff. Now I am considering selling the Nikon stuff and getting a Pentax K-5. From the reviews I've read it is roughly compareable to the D7000 in pretty much every way. The Pentax lenses' build quality is remarkable compared to the plastic Nikon stuff I've got, and it looks like most of the current Pentax lenses have that same sturdyness. Not to mention that the old metal Pentax lenses are very cheap on Ebay, compared to the Nikon ones seemingly still bearing a premium price. I will be moving to London for a few months coming September, as a student my funds are limited - I probably won't be able to afford the D7000 until I graduate in February 2012. On the other hand, I could probably get about 600 euros for the Nikon camera and glass and get the K-5 before I move to London.<br>

My considerations:<br>

-If I indeed move to Pentax, I don't have an extreme telephoto lens anymore (the 55-300) unless I bought one. For the rest I don't really lose any reach as the 28mm could take over the 35mm's job.<br>

-If I don't, I'll be "stuck" with the D3000 for a couple more months. I know, I know - a great photographer can take great pictures with even a disposeable camera, but seeing the shiny things within reach makes me want to shout... MY PRECIOUS. <br>

-If I move to Pentax, I also gain an extra camera: the Pentax ME. <br>

What does the photo.net community advise?</p>

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<p>A bit of apples/oranges going on here, Nathan. If you picked up some older pro-ish Nikon lenses (which would work on the D7000, of course, but that camera's very high resolution out-resolves many older lenses), you'd also get to feel that nice solid construction. Or, you could go with some of Nikon's newer pro level lenses, and experience the same thing. The entry-level Nikon lenses you mention will not feel like their higher-end products, needless to say - they simply can't for a hundred or two dollars. But they will work (and make lovely images), right now, on the D7000, without anyone having to sell them off and replace them with something else. <br /><br />Resist the gear shuffle, Gollum! Put film through the old Pentax rig and enjoy it as-is.</p>
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<p>I am sure features can be argued back and forth, but since you don't mention any ways in which the D3000 falls short for you, I'll come back to something you did write.</p>

<p>How a camera feels and how it makes me feel when I use it reflects in my work. I like the solid metal Pentax workmanship for this reason. I'd be happy using Zeiss, Voigtlander, Leica or Pentax glass, along with some classic Vivitars and so on. The cheapest and most fully-featured system that supports this line-up is Pentax. Shake Reduction in the body seals the deal for me, since now every one of these lenses is stabilised.</p>

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<p>Matt, you are right in saying that I really cannot compare the old Pentax lenses with the new consumer-grade Nikon lenses. However, a quick search on a website like Ebay shows me that it's very easy to get affordable (old and new) Pentax lenses, while it seems that it's quite difficult to get the same good deals on equivalent Nikon lenses. Now, it may very well be that I can't find them because there are simply so many Nikon lenses advertised - but it seems to me that the good lenses are still in a very high demand and may even have gone up in price. In other words: more people use Nikon, so there's a higher demand for older Nikon lenses thus the prices go up rather than down. Am I wrong in this?<br>

You are also right in saying that my current consumer-grade Nikon lenses will make lovely images on a D7000. The problem is that I simply can't afford one for 6 months.<br>

Robin, I am getting more and more frustrated with the D3000's low performance on ISOs higher than 400 and high noise on relatively long exposures. Both the K-5 and D7000 perform much better in these aspects, which are the main reasons for me to wanting to upgrade: I like shooting during the evening or night, and the D3000's lack in these two fields is becoming a nuisance. And then there are also the bells and whistles like the higher megapixel count and auto-bracketing of course.<br>

I can definitely see the merit in your point that how a camera feels reflects in your work. In Holland we have the term "hufterproof", loosely translated it means that something is constructed so well that being rough on it won't break it. I'm not saying I'm especially rough on my equipment, but having confidence in my equipment is something I do value.</p>

<p>I feel that I'm at a crossroads: I'm roughly equally invested in both systems and I have to make a choice somehow; if I buy more Nikon gear now, it would be silly to change. I must admit that I'm leaning towards Pentax but it is a difficult decision. </p>

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<p>I've been out of gear debate mode for some time. I find it's mostly irrelevant. You'll inevitably get some people that are 110% for brand X even if brand Y is a better fit for the person. Some people bleed the color of a particular brand.</p>

<p>To answer your question, the older Pentax lenses were beautiful. I was just loading some M42 screw mounts into my camera bag, and amazed by how smooth they are. but what a lot of people saying, "oh, all the old lenses were overbuilt" aren't telling you is that Pentax does still build a really solid lens for a reasonable price. </p>

<p>Yes, if you get professional Nikon lenses, you will probably be very happy. But you are looking at $1000-1500 per lens in most cases.</p>

<p>The flip side is if you are looking at staying under $1000 per lens, then even with recent price increases by Pentax you will have more options.</p>

<p>I'm also going to assume you like primes, again, Pentax does do very well with this.</p>

<p>The FA Limiteds have a wonderful build and high IQ. Not sure what the current prices are but I believe all 3 are at the $700-1100 level.</p>

<p>For a little less you can get the DA Limited series. Similar (virtually identical) build, but without the aperture ring. Some say the rendering isn't as good. Perhaps, perhaps not. the advantage of the DAs is they are smaller.</p>

<p>If you wanted to go between the K5 and the ME, you would probably want FA Limiteds.</p>

<p>However, it's not all sunshine and picnics. The D7000 is more backwards compatible with Nikons lens catalog than Pentax is with it's catalog.</p>

<p>You can mount just about any lens from Pentax K or 645 or 67 or M42 mounts onto the K5, but there are limitations, including the fact that you have to use the green button or Av mode to meter. Nikon, after years of crippling it's mount, finally made a sub pro camera with the ability to use legacy lenses. I don't know why Pentax hasn't done this, we are all hopeful it is on the to do list.</p>

<p>In the end, I'm with Robin. The feel of the camera, including user interface, size, layout, and lenses, make a big difference in how you shoot. This isn't too say you couldn't pick up brand Z tomorrow and do just fine, but it's to say that enjoying your camera makes photography somewhat easier and more enjoyable.</p>

<p>The K7/k5 is a very well laid out camera, it's compact, and it's solidy built. Not to mention it has the best IQ of any APS-C camera. With Limited or DA* (weather resistant) lenses attached, these cameras are a joy to use. But if you were to take my Pentax gear away from me and replace it with the closest Nikon match, I'm sure I'd still be just fine.</p>

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<p>I owned an MX when it was a current, newly-introduced camera. This was the ME's all manual cousin. It was a great little camera. Later I used Nikons, and I've used a few Canon's. They all do the same thing when you press the shutter button. In my opinion, if you already have lenses, stick with a camera body that they fit on. You might say I was once a Pentax man, but I no longer have any particular loyalty or feeling towards any brand. I mean, they are all just multinational corporations, after all, and if you want to talk about "build quality" of cameras or lenses, it's all in how much you pay for them, and very little in what the brand is on the viewfinder housing.</p>

<p>Can't you just use your ME and your Nikon?</p>

<p>P.S. I use a D3000. It has limitations, like no auto-bracketing for example, and no brightness setting to go along with the picture controls, but I just work around those, just like I used to work around the limitations of the old MX and every other camera I've ever owned.</p>

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<p>Your D3000 can probably serve you well for some time and those old M lenses (I assume they're M) are not something amazing - you would need to use them with stop down metering in M mode. Zeiss and Voigtlander lenses are no longer produced for Pentax, but they are still available on Nikon - those lenses have amazing build if that's what you look. But if Pentax's Limited lens line attracts you, then that is indeed unique and worth the jump - if that's what you want to be using. But think long term at what you may want to use later when you'll be able to afford more - don't make a decision now when you can't afford too many options.</p>
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<p>I don't really follow the logic, since the D7000 is priced lower than the K-5. You can upgrade to D7000 and use your existing lenses for less money than switching to Pentax.</p>

<p>You'd have to be a lot more specific as to what Pentax and Nikon lenses you are thinking of. The more common ones are pretty inexpensive but many aren't cheap at all.</p>

<p>You also might be disappointed as to the level of compatibility you get with manual-focus Pentax lenses--you'll want Pentax-A lenses for use in autoexposure modes. Pentax-M or 'SMC Pentax' (a.k.a. "K") will require clunky stop-down metering that some people can get used to, some won't like at all.</p>

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<p>Those two Pentax-M lenses are about the most common and low-cost (used) such lenses. Worth about $50 each. The 50/1.7 has an excellent reputation, the 28/2.8 less so. If they happen to be Pentax-A, they're worth twice as much, and are actually easy to use on K-5. (If they aren't Pentax-A, you have to use stop-down metering.)<br>

So you don't have any major investment in Pentax lenses.<br>

The K-5 is a great camera. But the NIkon cameras using the same sensor aren't bad.<br>

Equipment (within reason) doesn't keep you from taking great pictures. That's a matter of skill.</p>

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<p>Nathan,<br>

I think you should try out some medium format gear, particularly the Pentax MF range. I personally don't think that there is any point in switching from one brand to another in the 35mm format, be it crop or full frame film 35mm. If you are happy dealing with the negatives, once you see the large negative there is no going back.</p>

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<p>Contributing only to correct something that's been said or maybe get an answer to what happened 'cause I LIKE it. </p>

<p>Some have said as to Pentax DSLRs: manual lenses = green button shooting required. A couple days ago, I found out that's obviously not true.</p>

<p>Here are three photos I took over the past three days, all shot on a Pentax K200D. Two photos are with an old Kobori (77xxx) Vivitar 35-105 f3.2 (no "A" on the lens) and one with a Takumar 55 f1.8 w/1A skylight filter.</p>

<p>All three were done with my camera dial (on the top left) set in Portrait Mode (don't ask my why. Wasn't on purpose). When I booted the camera, the LCD said AV Priority, Auto Exposure. When I'd turn the aperature ring, the shutter speed would change in the viewfinder. The Green Button was not functional at all. And yet, look at those colors. I have NEVER been able to get such rich true colors using the green button. The first was taken in late evening, the second at high noon, the third at late evening. All I did to these three photos before uploading them was downsize them and bump the sharpness (seems you lose some when you downsize a photo.)</p>

<p>So apparently, it's not true that you MUST use the green button when using old manual lenses in order to get good results, yes?</p>

<p>I've had this camera only about 3 months and have decided it will wear out long before I figure out everything about it so at this point, I know very little of it.</p><div>00Z2r0-379981584.jpg.964df12afe8b3165ec7c706499707d7b.jpg</div>

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<blockquote>

<p>If you are happy dealing with the negatives, once you see the large negative there is no going back.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Totally agree, and while this might seem snobish, I never understood the concept of trying to recreate a certain film digitally. If you like the film and you aren't shooting high volume, shoot the film.</p>

<p>For me, I've enjoyed the 645N and larger negatives, the chromes look awesome but the black and white emulsions and processing is why I made a small investment in the 645 system. I got tired of trying to make a film like digital exposure, easier to just shoot film and process it. At least for me.</p>

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<p>Phylis, recheck my post. You can shoot in Av mode, I noted that, and I didn't do any editing of it since you posted.</p>

<p>Your choices are use the green button or shoot in Av. Av works fine if thats the mode you wanted to use anyway.</p>

<p>Usually if I'm using an M42 lens, I typically use Av mode. I never really liked the green button (for this type of shooting, for everything else, I love the green button), and I tend to use the fast older glass near wide open anyway.</p>

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<p>Not sure what's going on with the 35-105 but in some cases you can shoot in Av mode--with a screwmount lens it will work OK. With a pre-A K-mount lens the metering will be done wide open but the lens will stop down during shooting so if you're intending to shoot wide open it will sort of work as normal. But if you intended to stop down metering could be way off.<br>

None of this has a whole lot to do with colors...but if the results please you, that's what counts, right?</p>

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<p>Justin: Without re-reading all the posts, I just caught that "somebody" said "green button for manual lenses". :}</p>

<p>Anyway, heck yeah, Andrew! I love the results! Best I've ever gotten, in fact. This 35-105 is a one-touch K-mount, and I really like it. Sharp, petite so I can easily reach the zoom ring to focus and zoom without removing my hand from the camera. It does tend to flare if you're not careful, though, but it came with a nice collapsible hood and my intent for it is more indoor than outdoor.</p>

<p>I was just happy to learn I can now shoot all my manuals in AV mode and expect some fine results - well, IQ-wise anyway.</p>

<p>And that's why I bought into Pentax digital when I had no cameras at all at the time. All those xxxillions of beautiful old lenses for pennies. Buy one, try it; don't like it? Send it to ebay with the real expectation of at least recouping your initial investment, and get another.</p>

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<p>Nathan I want to echo Jeremiah's comments. None of those Nikon lenses are really bad optically, and from what has been said the Pentax primes are also pretty good.I have 2 Pentax film bodies and I've also owned cameras from Nikon and Canon, and while any can make good photos, I eventually invested in Nikon because I prefer the ergonomics. I would say go try both the K-5 and D7000. See what works for you.</p>
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<blockquote>

<p>I was just happy to learn I can now shoot all my manuals in AV mode and expect some fine results - well, IQ-wise anyway.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Note that you can shoot *all* manual lenses in Av mode. Except, "M" and "K" Pentax lenses will only work wide open - you can twist the aperture ring as much as you like, but those lenses will never stop down in Av mode. I am not sure whether your lenses work as "A" lenses or you are just using them in wide open mode without realizing - that is for you to find out.</p>

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<p>I have a K-7 (same ergonomics as the K-5) and a D7000. In some respects they can be set up to handle similarly, but overall they have rather different ergonomics. You really do need to handle both of them (perhaps you already have). From an ease of use, and user-friendliness standpoint, I would say the Pentax wins out. </p>

<p>I too don't quite understand some of your question, since the D7000 is noticeably less expensive than the K-5.</p>

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<p>When I worked for a newspaper, I used an Asahi Pentax as a backup to my Nikon F and F2 cameras. It was a very dependable camera that was capable of capturing high quality images. It served me well as a small, dependable, inexpensive back-up camera that I could use should my main camera fail. It could also substitute for my main camera in situations where my more expensive main camera ran the risk of becoming lost, damaged, or stolen. Except for its screw lens mount, my Pentax handled in a similar manner to my Nikons. Its small size made it a joy to carry and its built-in spot meter made it a joy to use.</p>

<p>I still shoot with Nikons and I still shoot with Pentax. The three Pentax Takumar lenses I use, (50mm f/1.4 normal lens, 28mm wide-angle lens, and 135mm telephoto lens) are practically indestructible and produce very high-quality images.</p>

<p>I also acquired a Pentax ME with the dented prism in a lot of photo equipment that I purchased on eBay. I was really surprised that after having received so much damage, the ME not only functioned but the light meter was still accurate.</p>

<p>I asked the seller what happened and was told that he had purchased the camera for his sister-in-law. She, however, found it too complicated and never used it. Fifteen years after she received it, she had completely forgotten about it. She was cleaning her junk closet when she accidentally knocked it off the shelf. It crashed to the floor and completely shattered the attached filter. The lens was undamaged but the prism and hot shoe were dented. I have known for a long time that Pentax cameras were tough but I had no idea they were that tough.</p>

<p>When I need to carry a small and lightweight 35mm SLR, I carry the ME with two third-party lenses (Kiron 28-70mm f/3.8 to f/4.5 lens and a Marexar-CX 80-205mm f/4.5). The small ME body and the two lenses are all I need for most routine assignments.</p>

<p>Bottom line – Nikon and Pentax make fine cameras, lenses, and systems. You should be happy with either or both.<br>

.</p><div>00Z3KO-380503584.jpg.7cf414ad7ea78246632e90861966cece.jpg</div>

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<p>Thanks for the knock on the head people, I'll stick to the D3000 for now and get either the K-5 or D7000 for myself as a graduation gift. As for the price, the D7000 is e890 and the K-5 e955, so that's really not that much of a difference. I'll also see how I like shooting with the ME just to get a feel for film. </p>
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<p>A Pentax-ME is available at used bargain bins for $25.00. Thinking of changing a system on the basis of a 1980 camera seems silly. Pentax is no longer a "cheap" system. Get a few prime lens for the Pentax and enjoy it as it is! I own one, actually the ME-Super, and a Pentax-MG, plus other K-mounts.<br>

It matters not what camera one uses, they are all pretty good! Stunned to see the statement "poor quality at higher ISO"! Nikon is great in available light. I use Nikon, Canon, Leica or whatever i'm given..Not always mine!<br>

Selling a system will cost dearly! Upgrade the box.</p>

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