Should I use Image Stabilization on a small boat in the open sea, please advise

[romangolubenko]

<p>Dear Canon experts :) I have read several articles about Canon Lens Stabilization System and finally confused. There is conflicting information from various sources. In general question is: should I use Image Stabilization in the open sea (on a small-medium size boat).<br />Which mode of IS should I use in this situation: 1 or 2 ? Will it be good idea to use Tripod or monopod in this case? (I guess not :)<br />For example "600mm f/4.0 IS" and "300mm f/4.0 IS" L Canon lenses.<br />Please advise</p>

[peter_j2]

<blockquote>There is conflicting information from various sources.</blockquote>

<p>Wikipedia USA makes explanations easier on this forum where this question is raised numerous times.</p>

<p>"<strong>Image stabilizer mode switch:</strong> This switch is found on many EF lenses that feature an image stabilizer, particularly those of longer focal lengths. The switch has two settings: Mode 1 and Mode 2. Mode 1 is normal mode, used for typical photography, where the subject does not move. Mode 2 is used for panning; this is useful for sports or wildlife photography, where the subject moves constantly and one will need to pan. One should not use Mode 1 for panning as this will typically cause blurred photographs; the image stabilizer will attempt to correct for all motion, including the panning motion, but cannot do so due to the limited range of motion of the IS mechanism. Most lenses that have an image stabilizer, but do not feature this switch, are permanently in Mode 1. Some newer lenses, such as the <a title="Canon EF-S 18-200mm lens" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF-S_18-200mm_lens">Canon EF-S 18-200mm lens</a>, are able to detect if they are being panned in either axis and will auto disable the stabilization for the axis parallel to movement. Therefore, they do not need this switch."</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Will it be good idea to use Tripod or monopod in this case? (I guess not :)</p>

</blockquote>

<p>You guessed right. The camera may tip over. Check the manual for the particular lens if the IS automatically shuts off when mounted on a tripod. But, in this scenario, you may want to experiment by leaving IS on when the boat is rocking.</p>

[steve m smith]

<p>This is how you take photographs whilst at sea: <a href="http://www.beken.co.uk/history.htm">http://www.beken.co.uk/history.htm</a></p>

[frank_skomial]

<p>You already have explanation for Canon IS system, that seems a bit different from Nikon.<br>

Nikon calls the VR modes more explicitly, as <strong>Normal</strong>, and <strong>Active</strong>.</p>

<p>In <strong>Normal </strong>mode usual hand-shake caused vibrations are removed, but panning motion is allowed. This is due to only one spinning motor operating, reducing up and down motion of your unsteady hands, while left to right direction motion is not reduced (or not that much reduced), thus allowing panning to shoot after moving subjects in horizontal direction.</p>

<p>In <strong>Active </strong>mode both perpendicularly located spinners are running, and are reducing all vibrations, thus making less possible to make panning shots. This mode is recommended when shooting from a boat, a car, a plane etc.</p>

<p>We have Perpendicularity Consultant in our net users/administrators population, so he could possibly explain this much better.</p>

<p>As you can see Wikipedia explanation would possibly differ a bit if it was for Nikon VR system.</p>

<p> </p>

[Mattman944]

<blockquote>

<p>should I use Image Stabilization in the open sea</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It may depend on the situation. Is the boat moving? Is what you are shooting moving?</p>

<p>On stationary boat shooting stationary object: Yes, I would use Image Stabilization.</p>

<p>On moving boat shooting something traveling at the same speed and direction (water skier, another boat): Yes.</p>

<p>On moving boat shooting something not moving: Use Mode 2.</p>

<p>On moving boat shooting something moving in a different direction: Use Mode 2.</p>

<p>Shooting someone on the same boat: No.</p>

[scott_ferris]

<p>I have shot tens of thousands of images from boat to boat, oftentimes standing next to some of the worlds best yacht photographers.</p>

<p>YES, mode 1.<br>

NO, it will transfer all the boat movement to the camera, your body acts as an amazingly good gyro and will absorb/counteract a huge amount of the boats movement.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>If by small-medium sized boat you mean something under 40-feet on any water other than glassy-smooth, then you'll need a shutter-speed over 1/1000th second, preferably closing in on 1/2000th. Don't be afraid to push the ISO up to get the needed SS. At these SSs the IS hardly matters, but I'd leave it on.</p>

<p>I tripod or monopod will transmit wave to hull shocks straight to your camera, so it would be a detriment, usually. An exception would be on a drifting boat near shore or in a mangrove stand where you're shooting birds. I'd still prefer hand held, but many don't like to shoot their long lenses hand held no matter what. In those cases, a tripod or monopod could work.</p>

[stephan_matthies]

<p>Roman, David said the most important thing: You need a very short exposure time, even if the boat is not moving very much, especifically if you shoot a stationary subject. If you can get close enough, use the 300mm lens. I fear, you will encounter big problems with your 600mm lens.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>If you have plenty of light, the 600mm should be shot at around 1/2000th. Run the ISO up as much as you need to, since any noise will be less objectionable than the blur from movement. Unless you have the Series II 600mm, that's a beasty to hand hold. I do my 500mm all the time, but the extra pound or so and the extra bulk makes that a toughy, since the old monopod or tripod will transmit vibrations.</p>

 

[scott_ferris]

<p>Boat to boat 600 is very uncommon, 500's are common place: 300's and 70-200 f2.8's on crop cameras are the real work horses though.</p>

<p>A huge amount depends on where you are and what you are shooting (obviously!). From a committee press boat for sailing, to a private boat for offshore power boat racing. Give us more detail and we can be more helpful with responses. Generally though, working with lenses above 300 on crop cameras is unrealistic in the open sea, monopods and tripods will not work unless you are on a cruise ship.</p>

[romangolubenko]

<p>Thank you for your kind help! It turned out to be very interesting discussion. I am planning to shoot birds and other wildlife from the moving-rocking boat. I think I will need to use 1/1000 or 1/2000 shutter speed anyway. But if I use the shutter speed around 1/2000 will Image Stabilization really improve image quality? Or there could be some kind of Image Stabilization confusion resulting blurry picture? _ Lenses are Canon 300mm f/4 IS L and for 600 f/4 IS L<br>

_ I think I had some blurry pictures before with 300mm f/4 IS L (not 600mm which has a tripod sensing) because I did not turn off IS on a tripod on the stable ground (not on the boat). I just try to find algorithm for my next trip now, unfortunately I will not have much time and opportunity to analyze pictures during the trip :(</p>

[romangolubenko]

<p>Here I have received the answer from Canon for same question :<br>

_"When shooting on a moving boat, Image Stabilization will likely still <br />help, since it is meant to counter movement of the camera and lens. <br />However, shooting on a tripod may transfer more of the movement to the <br />camera and lens, which holding the camera and lens may reduce it because<br />your body will also be countering the movement for you to keep your <br />balance. It is <strong>best to use mode 1</strong> in this situation."<br>

<strong> </strong></p>

 

[dcstep]

<p>At 1/2000 the IS will have little impact on IQ; however, it will actually help you to keep an AF point on the subject. Since you've shot the 600mm before, you'll realize how the IS helps you to stay on target, particularly handheld.<br>

The following shot was ha<br>

ndheld with my 500mm plus the 1.4x TC. I was literally alternating between a swallowtail butterfly on the ground and this bird. When shooting up into the tree, at around a 45-degree angle, the IS was very helpful, though I doubt that there was any impact on IQ. I would shoot from your boat at high SS and use the IS to help in aiming:</p>

<p><a title="Goldfinch poses by dcstep, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5150/5871135900_f0ca01926a_b.jpg" alt="Goldfinch poses" width="683" height="1024" /></a></p>

[brano_k]

Hold your lens sideways, feet wider apart than usual, and one foot well forward. If you can, bend your knees a couple

of seconds before making a shot. Stay close to the centre of the boat.

[dcstep]

<p>Brano, why hold the lens sideways?</p>

[romangolubenko]

<p>Thank you all guys ! All answers are priceless database for me and for everyone.<br>

...and really Brano why to hold the lens sideways? Please advise</p>

[scott_ferris]

<p>I think he means hold it like a rifle, across your body, rather than out in front of you. Much more stable like that.</p>

[peter_j2]

<blockquote>

<p>I think he means hold it like a rifle, across your body...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>

[dcstep]

<p>Scary link Peter, but I understand now.</p>