FM3 Metering for Long Exposure

[rajiv1]

I have been contamplating purchase of a FM3A. The object is to

appreciate photography as a technique and to allow myself enough

time to think about the picture I am about to take. I have looked

through enough resources and discussion threads and I still have one

question unanswered. </br></br>If there is a need for longer than 8

sec exposure, can the Fm3Ameter properly when in the Apertutre

Priority mode. I know that the scale (in the viewfinder) shows upto

only 1 sec and the specs states that the shutter speeds

are "steplessly" controlled from 1/4000 to 8 sec. Does that mean

that if the exposure time is (calculated to be) more than 8 sec, the

camera cannot handle it in the A mode? </br></br>Appreciate any

responses.

[Niels - NHSN]

Rajiv,<br>

I cannot answer your question w. regards to the capabilities of the FM3a, because I do not own one. However my FE does expose well beyond the documented max. in A mode. In practical use this functionality is of limited use. Lighting situations in very low light are usually very tricky and will often fool the meter anyway - besides you will have to compensate for the reciprocity failure properties of the specific film your are using, and you can only do that if you know what speed the camera will use.<br>

[rajiv1]

Hi Niles, Thanks for the response. I intend to learn and in the initial (few dozen /scores) of rolls (and later), I intend to bracket my exposures. I guess that will be a way to learn the issues in metering. </br></br> What I do want to know is that: can Aperture priority mode handle shutter speeds of more that 8 secs? Say an exposure of 30 secs or 1 minute or more? I know it is possible in the Bulb mode but I am still not an expert in Exposure. So, I intend to rely on the camera's metering (with Bracketing).</br>Thanks again

[richard_milner2]

I have an FM3a. It will meter exposures in A mode longer than 8 seconds in low light or night conditions.

 

In fact I did a night exposure about 5 minutes long on A, although on that occasion I switched the camera out of A to force the shutter to close. The picture came out quite well. It was on 100 ISO colour print film.

 

As noted previously, long exposures are hard to meter for and you will need to do some experiments to get consistent results.

 

One point to remember is that the FM3a's meter takes a reading at the start of the shot and sets the exposure accordingly. Introducing a bright light into the scene afterwards will not change the exposure setting, but it will probably fog the film.

[pete_su]

Why do this sort of thing on A? Why not set the camera to B and lock the shutter open and just count to 30 seconds or a minute and then bracket? I'm not sure how the A mode helps in these cases.

[efusco]

Rajiv,

I think you're thinking about this all wrong. Long exposures, as mentioned, really require techniques quite different from those typically handled by ANY camera's metering system. I use an F5 and FM2n frequently and find that although some exposures with my F5 at night come out accurately many others do not. I've found that useing tables found in many resources and bracketing to be much more effective for most night-time shooting. I'm going out to a nearby tourist attraction decorated with Christmas lights. I'll bring my F5 and don't intend to use the in-camera meter at all but rather some tables from a night-photography book I've used in the past and found fairly reliable. I'll bracket exposures widely and should get some excellent shots.

 

That said, there ARE situations where it is helpful to meter the exposure. For example a statue lit at night. In these cases I will, sometimes, use the in-camera meter, even on A mode. If you find you have uncertainty about the capability of the camera to meter beyond 8 seconds use some 'tricks' to be more certain of your exposure.

 

For example. If you are using ISO 100 film and your exposure is beyond the metering range of the FM3 at that ISO then reset the ISO to, for example, ISO 1600 and check your exposure at your selcted F-stop. If your camera tells you to use 1/2 sec. you can use your knowledge of reciprocity and calculate back to the 'real' ISO of the film in the camera....

1600-->800-->400-->200-->100 = 4-stops

 

So, with your ISO 100 film your exposure would be....

1/2sec. -->1 sec -->2 sec. -->4 sec. --> 8 sec.

 

Remember that you can do the same thing using your aperture as well. Even if you want to use f/11 for the shot you can take your reading at f/1.4 and again, calculate back the number of stops to adjust your exposure for f/11 (do you know how many stops that is? You need to learn if you don't). You can also combine the two techniques (adjusting the ISO and the F-stop and add the number of stops together).

 

Put the camera on Bulb mode, count in your head for 8 sec. bracket up to 15 sec. and down to 4 sec. or even wider and you'll get a good exposure.

 

You stated that "The object is to appreciate photography as a technique and to allow myself enough time to think about the picture I am about to take." This is how you do that. You really have to stop, slow yourself down, think about the exposure learn about stops and metering and how your camera reads exposures and how to outsmart your camera's light meter when it wants to do something wrong.

--evan

[mskovacs]

My F3HP does this too in A mode.

 

However, for slide film shooters, you have to watch for recipricity failure. The correction will depend on the exposure time. Unfortunately, you will only know it is longer than 8 sec using this method.

 

I use T mode on my F3 to save on batteries. I hear that the FM3A still uses batteries in mechanical bulb mode which is a shame (if true).

[hil3]

For long exposures, I would abandon A mode altogether. Too unreliable. A hand-held meter is the most useful for me. I use a Gossen Luna Pro, but there are many others. That, plus the reciprocity failure compensation info on the film box or manufacturer's web site, a small flashlight to be able to read the meter and make the camera settings, and bracketing until you gain some experiece, and you're off and running.

[david_stott2]

as well as getting a good handheld meter and bracketting, i would suggest an extra body- (even just a second hand cheapie that does bulb like an EM £40+ on the great auction site with 50mm lens) this way you can bracket two exposures at the same time- i took some 4 hour exposures to get the arc in the stars recently, so bracketing was not a option- i used three bodies, a hassie and two nikons, one with a 20mm, another with a 28. the one from the em is the only decent one of the lot ( i will post it when i get round to scanning it) it meany lugging extra gear, especially in terms of suppourt- so to get round that problem i used clamps on a fence- but you could make a bracket to fit two cameras to one tripod...

 

or use two film, one with slide film, one using print film to get more lattitude...

[rajiv1]

Richard, Pete, Evan, Mike, Hil, David:</br></br>Appreciate your comments. I shall go out and get a good handbook for Night Photography and metering first :) Will have your ideas in mind when I go shooting again.

[graham_line]

Rajiv: Go down to your dealer and fish a copy of the Kodak Professional Photoguide out of his big box of used miscellaneous things. It includes an excellent calculator dial for night exposures as well as a lot of other useful data. I have a '75 edition that's about 5x7. The "Kodak Master Photoguide" has much of the same data in a 3x4 format that's easier to haul around. Both have heavy card pages and a spiral binding.

[rajiv1]

Hi Josef:</br></br>

Thanks. I was trying to source for the Professional Photo Guide. But was unable to get it. Luckily, I managed to get a copy of the Master PhotoGuide from the Local Library. Thanks again.