Rolleiflex 3.5F and Rolleimarin 4

[blaise_duchemin]

<p>I have recently acquired a set and have not received it yet.<br /> Apparently, the 3.5F has been prepared for the Rolleimarin and the "stop function" has been disabled. My guess is that it means the lever is not blocked when you wind on to the next photo. I haven't seen anything about that on the Rolleimarin manual and I wonder if this is easily reversible if you want to use it without the housing. If not is it just a matter of operating the lever properly by winding it to the right position ?<br /> Other than that, I have been advised not to use it but I think it is time this fantastic housing serves its purpose. It is supposed to have never been used, so I am really hoping it is dive ready. In case it is not diveproof anymore have been looking for spare rubber sceals but it looks like it is going to be impossible to find.<br /> If any of you know a site that carries them, a link will be appreciated. Any kind of advice in general or experience about Rolleimarin is welcome !</p><div></div>

[JDMvW]

<p>Can't help you, but can hardly wait to see what you post after you get it.</p>

[jan_b_ttcher]

<p>My general advice is "Ask questions first, shoot / bid later.".<br>

I have no idea, what "stop function" could be disabled (and yes, I do have a Rolleimarin (or two or three or?) <a href="http://www.janboettcher.de/images/HUGP5.JPG">http://www.janboettcher.de/images/HUGP5.JPG</a> ).<br>

When it comes to the seals there are two types in general. Black round "bushings" for shafts (transport, focus, f-stop, shutter speed) and big "rings" cut out of sheet "rubber" for front and rear glass plus upper&lower body half (it should be possible to cut these by yourself).</p>

[blaise_duchemin]

<p>If it is indeed dive proof, I'll take it down to my favourite dive spot in August and I will post the results here.<br>

BTW, any advice about what film to use, I think I'll try a bit of B&W and colour, the obvious choice seems to be 400 films.<br>

Here is the original sentence in German (I don't speak a word and automatic translation is useless):<br>

<em>"Rollei-WERKE Franke & Heidecke Made Germany / Synchro Compus Planar 1:3,5 f=75mm mit dem umgebauten Filmtransport ohne Stopfunktion"</em><br>

Maybe some of the german speaking members here will understand.</p>

<p> </p>

[cole_paquette]

<p>what, exactly are the seals like? you may be able to find something at your local hardware superstore, like home depot or lowes, assuming it's something like an o-ring (even a very large one) or something like a washer.<br>

other bits you may need to custom order from a company that makes gaskets and seals, or make yourself.</p>

[jan_b_ttcher]

<p>"Rollei-WERKE Franke & Heidecke Made Germany / Synchro Compus Planar 1:3,5 f=75mm mit dem umgebauten Filmtransport ohne Stopfunktion" ? <br /><br />Wow! 2995,- Euro.</p>

<p>Rollei-WERKE => Rollei-factory<br />Franke & Heidecke => the owners ;-)<br />Made Germany => make that "Made IN Germany"<br />/ Synchro Compus => make that "Synchro Compur" (the shutter)<br />Planar 1:3,5 f=75mm <br />mit dem umgebauten Filmtransport ohne Stopfunktion => with the modified filmtransport without stopfunction</p>

<p>Beats me what "the" ("dem", anouncing something rather specific) modified filmtransport is about.</p>

<p>Here are the official instructions <a href="http://www.cameramanuals.org/rolleiflex/rollei_rolleimarin.pdf">http://www.cameramanuals.org/rolleiflex/rollei_rolleimarin.pdf</a> the only modification to be done to the camera is to dismount the light meter from the focusing knob.</p>

<p>The filmtransport has to stop for frame #1 automatically, and it has to stop for every subsequent frame. With the camera in the Rolleimarin and with the plain camera.</p>

[blaise_duchemin]

<p>Jan, I still have not figured out what the without stop function is, it seems to work absolutely normally outside of the housing. Oh, yes and also ... I did not pay that price ;-)<br>

I have tested the housing in a swimming pool and went down about 3m deep. I have manipulated all knobs or levers and did not find even a tiny little sign of moisture inside.<br>

I have to say I am impressed as I half expected to see water gushing inside. 30m might be a different story but so far, so good...<br>

I am thinking about skipping the maintenance and go to the next step as I feel tempering with it will do more harm then good.</p>

 

[don_williams12]

<p>Jan is correct in that the only mod to the camera is to remove the viewing hood and replace the light meter with the black cover that is provided with the housing.<br>

I have a perfect Rolleimarin IV and have never had any problems with it, however I bought some spare cup seals for it and have changed one when I felt is was getting a bit hard. In any case I would recommend you check the cup seals and when you replace them use plenty of silicone lube to help them remain soft and self sealing.<br>

There is one company I know of that will replace the cup seals with O rings, and will also provide an adapter that will bypass one of the 22.5 volt flash connectors so that you can hook up a strobe if that is what you want.<br>

This is, in my opinion, absolutely the finest U/W still camera system ever made. I recomend the Seconic light meter but there are other meter housings that are quite functional.<br>

In addition, I have made, for my own use, a computer, sort of a slide rule, that you use for flash guide number correction by setting in the distance of visibility underwater. I also made a glass-mount R30 filter that fits in the turrent to give relatively good color down to 30' or so without flash.</p>

<p> </p>

[blaise_duchemin]

<p>Nice weather is more or less back and it is time to worry about reconditionning my Rolleimarin again.<br>

Last year I have taken it for short snorlkelling trips (20m mostly surface and several short 3 to 6m dives). Everytime I checked after usage I found a few drops of water that looked like condensation but that tased a bit salty.<br>

As a consequence I decided not to take it down for my dives. There are no detectable leaks and it looks like the two main rubber seals are alright. I suspect it is rather through the different commands that the water manages to go through, I found traces of dried salt water on some of them.<br>

I have carefully unscrewed and taken out every lever but found absolutely no seals (maybe inside the knobs ?), just grease that looks thick, orange and probably too old. Can that grease be the only thing that prevents the water from getting in ? Any recommandation about how I should handle this operation, the kind of grease I should use, etc. ?</p>

[don_williams12]

<p>About seals, there are absolutely "Cup" seals at every control shaft, you should easily see them. Only in rare cases will you find a housing that has been modified to use O rings. Those cup seals are self adjusting but do deserve some silicon lube from time to time.</p>

[don_williams12]

<p>Blaise, If you don't see the cup seals let me know and I will send pictures of the seals and the special aluminum washer that holds each one.</p>

[blaise_duchemin]

<p>Hi Don,<br>

So I took some time this week-end to take another look.<br>

I still don't see anything that looks like a seal, I tried the focus knob and the apperture knob and took everything off the housing , here is what I get :<br>

Focus knob :<br>

<img src="http://www.munsterfans.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2263&d=1334417305" alt="" width="800" height="531" /><br>

and the apperture knob (sorry for the finger marks on the picture, kids played with the camera again...):<br>

<img src="http://www.munsterfans.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2264&d=1334417331" alt="" width="800" height="531" /><br>

It looks like the only thing preventing water from coming in here is the grease...</p>

 

[don_williams12]

<p>Blaise- The pictures didn't come through. I have a reserved email address that you can use to send your email address to and I will then send some pictures directly to you from my main address. I will show you what those seals look like. One more thing, has your Rolleimarin ever been mofidied by a shop and converted to O-rings.<br>

Anyhow, send your email address to <a href="mailto:spectrumdata@cox.net">spectrumdata@cox.net</a> and I will use my main email system to send pictures. (This email address is safe in that I only check it using web mail and never download anything to my computer- same for soundmax, but for some reason the last two pictures didn't show, but I will recheck.)<br>

DAW</p>

<p> </p>

[don_williams12]

<p>I see a picture of a Rolleimarin by Ron Taylor. Probably the Ron of Ron and Valarie Taylor in Australia. They used to do a lot of movies but I haven't heard of them in some time.<br>

Still unable to find your pictures- must be a problem with the posting system.</p>

<p>DAW</p>

 

[don_williams12]

<p>Blaise,<br>

Did you check the picture size limits for this blog?<br>

DAW</p>

 

[blaise_duchemin]

<p>Hi Don, do you mean you can't see my pictures?<br>

It does not look like posts can be edited, so I'll attach a smaller version of the first picture. I'll get to my main computer on monday and send you my e-mail.<br>

Re. my Rolleimarin, I doubt it has been modified, it is supposed to be brand new and never used (and it looked like that alright).</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

[don_williams12]

<p>I've never taken my focus knob off but I will send you a pcture of the cup seals and their retaining washer as used on the other controls.<br>

Your picture did come through this time-<br>

DAW</p>