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<p>Hi, <br /><br />Since a couple of years I am developing my own slides using the<br />Fujihunt E6 3-bath processing kit. Normally I get very good results.<br />But since the last two batches of 4 120 films and one 135 film (fresh<br />dilutions from the same package) the results are extremely poor: a thin<br />image as if it was several stops over-exposed (Kodak E100G), RVP 50<br />gives green/cyan, monochrome results, brownish colour cast (RDPIII),<br />or even nothing apears on the film, neither margins and lettering of<br />film type and frame numbers. The films were exposed in different<br />camera's (Rolleiflex GX and Leica M6), so I don't think its a failure<br />of the shutter.<br /><br />I diluted the concentrates of the Fujihunt processing kit in<br />de-ionized water (conductivity < 10 micro-seconcs cm), which I also<br />use for rinsing in order to prevent Calcium tags on the<br />film. I am using a JOBO CPP2 processor that keeps the temperature at 38 +/-<br />0.1 C. Processing times have been performed following the instructions,<br />i.e. 6 1/2 min first developer, 2 min rinsing (using de-ionized water<br />in three batches: first 30 s, second and third 1 min), 6 min colour<br />developer, 2 min rinsing, 6 min bleach fixer, 4 min rinsing (first<br />rinsing bath during 30 sec. second, third and fourth during 1 min).<br />I cannot find a date of storage live on the package. However, each<br />bottle has printed a different number. The only cause for this<br />failure I can imagine is that the storage temperature might have<br />exceeded 30C, which isn't allowed following instruction on the<br />package. Does anybody know if this might destroy the developers? Does<br />anbody have any other idea which may cause this failure?<br /><br />Thanks, Gerber</p>
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<p>I use E6 and never had such problem, as long as the chemical are not expired, usually it is recommended that the chemical be kept in a place with a temperature should not exceed 20C and the films, I usually keep in a frejerator, I take them out around 4 hours before loading them in the camera.</p>
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<p>Gerber: E6 chemicals are fairly stable. They are mixed at higher temps than 30C. From the fact that you have no image on the margins, it would sound as though there is a light leak somewhere that has overexposed the film. Otherwise the margins should sill have numbers and the print emulsion. This could be camera or developing tank. Chemicals are another possibility.The first developer would at least leave some image on the film. The chemicals are freshly mixed before you start. And I presume they haven't been stored for too long prior to mixing.</p>
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<p>Gerber, please give additional information regarding<br>

"or even nothing apears on the film, neither margins and lettering of<br />film type and frame numbers." Does this mean that the film is totally clear, or totally black? Since you said earlier that it appears over exposed, I'm assuming you mean clear. In that case, light fog is one possible cause. Another idea could be a problem with inadequate color development, causing no dye image to form. <br>

Since different film types are responding differently, I think chemistry might be the problem. Does the entire roll show the same problem throughout? Or is the problem on one side of the tank? Or towards one end of the roll? </p>

 

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<p>Here are some strips of film. Regarding the tears (35mm strip) and speckles (on one of the 120 films), it seems as if the dye has been dissolved at some places. Though, I also figured out that there is a small light leak between the lid of the JOBO drum and the core tube at which the spirals are placed on.</p><div>00Yg4e-355041584.thumb.jpg.20cf5a16c62cc0f78a91d107bcd0b03d.jpg</div>
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<p>Hello again, Gerber. The samples do not look like light leaks to me. </p>

<p>The first image 35 mm Provia 100F, lettering has disappeared: This looks like the emulsion has been stripped from the film base. Something would be dissolving the gelatin. One of the most common chemicals to do that is household bleach (sodium hypochlorite, the ingredient in "CLOROX"). It is also a powerful fogging agent and could be the cause of the other poor quality images shown.</p>

<p>Astia RAP 100F: The D-max is very low, blacks are gray, the image is smokey looking, even in the edge print which is unexposed by your camera(s). I would call this "fogged." But the uniformity of it suggests chemical fog. Again, sodium hypochlorite could do that even in small quantities if it somehow got into your developer stock(s). </p>

<p>Provia 100F 120: The monochrome look is intriguing, but overall I would say it has similar issues to Astia example. Definitely "fogged" even in the edge areas.</p>

<p>Velvia 50: All that's left of this image is the cyan dye. This is very helpful in diagnosing the problem. It indicates that the color development has taken place in the bottom most layer of the film. The color sequence is yellow dye on top, magenta dye in middle, and cyan dye on bottom next to the film base. </p>

<p>Having seen the other examples above, I am making a very educated estimate that you might have something dissolving the emulsion layers after the second step of the process. You have positive images, which indicates proper first development (negative), and also proper reversal and some color development. Again, hypochlorite bleach could do this. </p>

<p>Your process times & temperatures are adequate and should not cause such problems. I would have to conclude that your water source, your mix bottles, or your tanks have been contaminated, probably with a chemical fogging agent, but one that also melts gelatin. Hypochlorite is one of the few common chemcials that does just that. </p>

 

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<p>Hi Dan,<br /> Thanks for your thorough analyses. Your comments convince me that I will have to throw away the fresh baths (one week old), rinse the bottles severely (I always use the same ones for each bath) and make new solutions from the same kit (of which I still have half of the concentrates) to test a small strip of film. If processing will still fail, I will make new solutions from another, new, unopened E6 kit.<br /> Gerber</p>
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<p>I am back in the playfield again. Rinsing the bottles and makeing a new solution from the kit that already was partly used, solved the problem: after developing a test strip, the slides show perfect colours. Fortunately I didn't have to throw away the half-used E-6 kit. Probably one of the bottles containing the solutions, I suspect the colour developer, was contaminated with some bleach fixer.</p>
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