Anyone try any RF remote triggers or intervalometers? That actually work.

[GerrySiegel]

<p>Q Says it all. I have the cabled /wired Olympus remote for my E-1 and E3. And the overpriced Panny 49.00 buck cabled remote plastic toy that Panasonic sells for its GH2 and GH3 models.<br /> Wonder if there is one like the Opteka that actually works. No reports last time I looked. Also would even consider a wired extension for either of what I got, would like to get about 15 feet from the cameras. Impedance problems perhaps, not my area...Flash Zebra sells one that adapts to the Pocket Wizard but I do not have a pocket wizard pair...<br /> Would seem like there might be a nature shooter market for such a device. Any garage labs working on the gadget. E-3 uses a three pin plug. Panasonic used what looks like a mini DIN plug.</p>

[ellis_vener_photography]

Most reliable radio remote? PocketWizard MultiMAX transceivers. They also have a very good very programmable

intervalometer built in and trigger to receiver range upwards of 1,500 feet.

[CCU]

<p>I have just been onto the 'PocketWizard' website. They don't have any info on Olympus compatible products. </p>

[meissner]

<p>I have problems getting various wired shutter releases to work with my E-3. I can get the Olympus RM-CB1 to work fine all of the time. I bought an older model JJC wired shutter release and it works occasionally, depending on if I get the thing tightened just right. I bought a radio JJC shutter release, and it no longer seems to work. I bought a Zeikos radio shutter release that has plugs for both the RM-CB1 and RM-UC1 cables -- the RM-UC1 clone works great on my E-P2 and SP-550UZ, but I can't get the RM-CB1 clone to work on my E-3 (it does work on the E-1).</p>

<p>I've heard of other users that have had problems with the E-3 and shutter releases (with the pin being pushed in so it doesn't make contact), so it may be some design flaw of the E-3.</p>

<p>Frankly for my disguise my E-3 as a bellows/view camera project, I'm tempted to go back to using a mechanical shutter release from a film camera, and adapt it for the E-3 (I did it before for the E-P2 when I put it in a Kodak Pony Premo body, and there wasn't room to connect the electronic shutter release).</p>

<p>It you are a DYI-er, here are some directions to mount a p&s on a pole that includes a making a radio remote that presses the shutter button. http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/01/maker-workshop-pole-camera-on-make.html</p>

[meissner]

<p>Another alternative is to use the RM-1 infrared shutter release. Now, the Olympus RM-1 has fairly limited range and you have to aim the control to hit the sensor, but I've heard of people hacking fiber optic cables and taping the cable over the IR sensor and the RM-1. If you have a learning IR remote, you might be able to program it to do the RM-1 command set. In the past, when I had a PDA (personal digital assistant), there was software available that would convert the PDA to send out the appropriate signal. Since I have moved on to a smart phone, I don't have anything with an IR port any more. Gadgey Infinity does have this IR device that plugs into the RM-CB1 socket: http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/product.php?productid=17131&cat=268&page=1</p>

<p>Pclix is a little more expensive than the average JJC or other wireless shutter release, but it does have the option to fall back to using an infrared control if the RM-CB1 cable doesn't work on the E-3: https://www.pclix.com/shopping/</p>

<p>I really, really am beginning to hate the RM-CB1 cable socket and how it seems to deform over time. While I dislike the fact that you can't do both video out and shutter release by default with the new combined cable, it seems to work much better for shutter release over time.</p>