which Neutral gradient density filters are most useful?

[smarksphotography]

<p>Hi, <br>

I have been reading about how neutral gradient density filters are extremely useful for certain types of landscapes including mountains and sunsets along the beach. <br>

Since decent ones aren't cheap, I am trying to figure out if I can ease into them rather than start with a complete set of both hard and soft (by complete set I mean .3, .6. and .9) or is this will just result in a lot of frustration. (I also read lots of comments suggesting that less expensive ones aren't really worth it, and that often people who get the those quickly end up getting the better quality ones. I am thinking of skipping this step.)<br>

I heard that the .6 is perhaps the most used. I was wondering if there was anything like a consensus on this?<br>

Also, which is more generally useful the soft or the hard edge, or perhaps this is not a particular valid question? In other words, is the soft pretty strictly used for mountains landscapes while the hard is used exclusively for straight horizons like a beach sunset and you kinda need both?<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

[david_henderson]

<p>If i had to choose 2 it would be a 3 stop hard edge ( I photograph by the sea a lot) and a 2 stop soft. Whilst I carry 6 grads I suspect that about two thirds of my usage is there two. </p>

<p>Arguably the best balance between the beat and the cheapest way to get into these filters involves buying cheap but serviceable Cokin rings and holders, but then buy a superior filter such as Hitech or Lee to fit. Paying more for the filters does seem to increase subtlety and smoothness of transitions, and increases the chances that the filters you buy will actually be colour-neutral . Sadly I'm going to stop short of saying that it guarantees neutrality, and i have several times returned my HiTechs until what they sent me was satisfactorily neutral to my eye. </p>

[ShunCheung]

<p>If you need graduated ND filters, the 2-stop and 3-stop types are the most useful. I use Singh-Ray filters and their graduated ND are very gradual. Even their "hard" ones has a fairly wide transition zone, and I don't find their "soft" ones that useful. Not sure about other brands.</p>

[smarksphotography]

<p>Thanks for the replies.<br>

I am considering the Lee filters. I wonder if anyone can speak to their relative hard and softness. Based on Shun's reply I am considering just getting the hard ones intially.</p>

<p>Thanks, Spenncer</p>

[Two23]

<p>I use HiTech "P". Since I live on the Northern Plains, I have 2-stop hard, 3-stop hard, 2-stop soft. THe HiTech has a predictible transition, and the hard edged is about right for me most of the time.<br>

Kent in SD</p>

[smarksphotography]

<p>Hmm, I had not considered the HitTech before posting this. In my initially searches I missed the HiTech but they seem to be decent choice considering the price and the difficultity getting the Lee's. I guess this is probably a frequently asked/debated question, but I could not find anyone who has used both and could compare them.<br>

I have good cannon glass. will I notice a difference between the Lee's and the HiTech?</p>

<p>Spencer</p>

 

[david_henderson]

<p>Lee filters are a little thicker and a bit more expensive. I think you'll find Hitech transitions a bit more gradual than Lee- in other words a Lee hard-edge is somewhat harder than the Hitech hard edge. The filters are otherwise pretty similar which comes as no surprise since both businesses emerged as management spin-offs from a Kodak company many years ago now and AFAIK used the same materials and dyes and indeed might still do so.. I have no quantified basis for this but my impresssion over the years here on photo.net is that I've heard fewer Lee users complaining of colour casts than I have for Hitech. </p>

[paul_b10]

<p>Going with quality filters in this area is key as you want the light coming into the camera cut down without any distortion, color shifts or loss of contrast. I have used Singh-Ray filters for years with great results. I would agree with a couple of the other post in that the 2 and 3 stop filters are used the most, in particular the 3 stop. Digital cameras today have a much wider exposure range, about 5-8 stops if shooting in RAW, in comparison to film with roughly a 3 stop range.<br>

One that you may also also want to consider is a reverse ND which will darken closest to the middle of the filter or where you'd place your horizon and then fades lighter as you get to the top of the frame. Great for shooting into the sunset or sunrise.<br>

<a href="http://www.lifepics.com">LifePics: Create Anything, Print Anywhere</a></p>

 

[Mary Doo]

<p>I have used all 3 - Singh-Ray, HiTech, Lee. Lee is my favorite as it seems hardier. I find that I mostly reach for the Hard Edge. The soft edge seems too mild.</p>

[smarksphotography]

<p>Thanks Mary and others for the helpful info. I am really debating between the HiTech and Lee at this point but so I've collected quite a bit of evidence in favor of spending the extra dough on the Lee's. <br>

The reverse ND also sounds pretty interesting. I haven not heard of that but since I do like to capture sunsets it might be worth checking out. </p>

<p> </p>

[georges_pelpel]

<p>I have the Singh-Ray 3-stop hard edge and 2-stop soft edge. They are very neutral unlike the Cokin grey grads. I have never used Lee or Hitec filters so I cannot comment on those.<br>

I use the 3-stop hard the most always handheld. Why handheld? Laziness at first, now intentional as I found out that the handshaking softens the transition. Nature rarely has straight transitional lines, so the filter line becomes obvious when used with a holder.<br>

I sometimes combine both fiiters in extreme situations.<br>

If I had to add a third version I would opt for the 3-stop soft edge.</p>

[rossb]

<p>I am probably the only one that does this but I use a 77mm 2 stop ND Tiffen filter (round thread on filter). Most of my landscapes are shot with Nikon Prime lenses with a 52mm filter size. I just hold the larger filter with my fingers and adjust the gradient for the scene. I like to do it that way because the metal edge of the filter makes a very easy way to hold it without putting my fingers on the filter itself. Also it's glass and durable. And third the filter did not cost that much. However the system only will work if you lens is a fair amount smaller then the filter. Using a thread on filter as intended does not work that well because the gradient will be in the wrong spot a lot of the time.</p>

[stp]

<p>In the mountains, I use a 2-3 stop soft edge. At the coast or in flatlands, I use a 2-3 stop hard edge. I'm also finding the digital approach (digital blend using the gradient tool on the same photo processed 1) for the bright areas and 2) for the dark areas, each in a separate layer) to be quite effective and more versatile than physical filters. Beyond that, there is the world of HDR that few seem to know how to navigate effectively, but those who do can produce stunning natural photos that could never be accomplished with a GND filter.</p>