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RZ67: Beginning Lens Setup for Fashion


edo_t

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<p>Soooo, I just picked up an RZ67 from KEH (actually i'm waiting for it to arrive this week!!!!!).<br>

I am a fashion photographer (super [as in very very dedicated] amateur). So, for fashion work, (ie the stuff you see in Vogue or Harpers Bazaar) i was wondering what would be a good assortment of lenses. I know they are decently cheap and i'll probably end up having the whole line down the road, but for now~ what to do? What is the best route to go? W lenses? and how much better are the ULD's~</p>

<p>I got it with the 50mm F4.5 W. I know its pretty wide, sooo, what to get with next months paycheck!?<br>

a 110 2.8 W and then next time a 180mm? and how does the soft focus stack up vs the none soft focus? ok to many questions.</p>

<p>thanks guys!<br /></p>

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<p>First the 110mm, 2nd the normal 180mm or the 210mm APO, 3rd the 127mm, 140mm Macro, or 150mm.<br /> Cost wise, the 210 APO will be the most expensive, followed by the 140 Macro or the 110, with the 127, 150 and 180 tied for the cheapest.<br /> I have the 180 soft focus, but I don't use the soft focus disks that often, so I wouldn't put the soft 180 at the top of any must-have list for start-up.<br /> Since you have the 50mm already, get the 110mm, then depending on your finances, try for the 210 APO, but at the very least, grab a 180. The 180's are dirt cheap, and with the three focal lengths of 50mm, 110mm, and 180mm, you'll have a very well-rounded/nicely spaced start to your RZ lens kit.<br /> The general rule for flattering fashion/portraiture shots, usually favors standard or longer lenses, not shorter/wide lenses.<br /> After you acquire the three or four focal length kit mentioned above, you will know what lenses to strive for next on your own.</p>
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<p>Hello Edo,<br>

congratulations on your "new" RZ! Definitely the next lens should be a 150 or 180 mm. I'd personally go with the (faster) 150, but the 180's are decent performers too. Regardless what people say about the 180 mm soft focus lens, without the disk it is a very capable performer. At f/4.0 it is also half an f-stop faster than the "regular" 180 mm f4.5. I don't think that too many people who commented about this lens on the Web have actually used one...<br>

But depending on your budget, you could also look at the 180 mm short barrel lens (with the short barrel spacer to start with, which makes it identical to the 180 mm f/4.5). You could later add the Tilt/Shift adapter and use this lens for other work as well. The 180 mm f/4.5 is a very good lens. That's actually what I use for portraits on my RZ67II, if I don't go for the 150 mm f/3.5 lens. The 150 mm is a full stop faster than the 180 mm short barrel, that may come in handy depending on lighting conditions.<br>

As usual, you can't really go wrong, as you can sell what you buy used for more or less the same than what you paid for it, if you look around a little.<br>

So here is my all star list for you based on your next paycheck question:</p>

<ol>

<li>150 mm f/3.5</li>

<li>180 mm SB f/4.5 with spacer</li>

<li>180 mm f/4.0 soft focus</li>

<li>180 mm f/4.5</li>

</ol>

<p>Christoph</p>

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<p>Hm, what IS the benefit of the short-barrel?<br>

Marc:<br>

I agree, once i have a couple lenses in the mix i will have a feel for what should come next. I've never shot medium format before so....yea. I'm also completely aware of using longer focal lengths for people in general - the 50mm is for landscape (new hobby) and more experimental/conceptual fashion. I'm really thinking about the 110 because it's lightining fast.<br>

Christoph:<br>

How sharp is the 180 SOFT vs the regular 180? And what is the spacer you noted in your list?? That 150 3.5 sounds good too and it's cheap too, i love MF already hah!</p>

<p>OH, and I bought it "LN-" so the thing will probably show up looking like a showroom piece as per my experience with KEH~!</p>

<p>Everyone:<br>

Ok, so what is the W grade and C grade (and i think L) grade lenses mean? what are there differences? I'm aware that none "lettered" lenses are inferior to the others, but to what extent and how? I couldnt dig up this info. I know the ULD is ultra low dispersion (marketing) glass and the highest quality, so yea. Thanks all, i'm VERY excited, it will hopefully be here friday!</p>

 

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<p>I can highly recommend the 110 f/2.8, as it is my most used lens in the lineup. I've got that, the 90mm, and the 180mm f/4.5, and I'd say I use the 110mm about 80% of the time. It's a great range for getting shots of my kids, especially indoors, as they run around. Focusing is not the easiest, but I manage, and it's especially fun with a pack of Fuji instant in a Polaroid back - the "mistakes" still look great, blurred and all!</p>

<p>What I really like about the RZ system in general is the close focusing ability of the _camera_, which applies to all lenses. Compare that to just about any other MF system out there, and you're looking at a minimum focusing distance on most other lenses of around 1 meter. The RZ lets you get a lot closer than that with all the lenses due to the bellows design of the camera, although you do trade-off a stop or two. Still, it's really nice to have that flexibility built-in to the system.</p>

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<p>Me too.<br>

So, what IS the benefit of the SB lenses? They can be converted into Tilt and Shift lenses with the T/S adapter that function all the way out to infinity. The 180 mm is similar in function to the 85 mm T/S lenses in the 35 mm format. There are two of them 75 mm and 180 mm. The whole set is quite useful in architectural photography in case you want to venture there some day.<br>

Christoph</p>

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<p>I'm in the same position like you are, but I got my RZ67 pro II about 15 months back. Mine came with the 180 and since I got the 110 and the 65 (non-ULD). For indoor shots (non-studio) I use the 110 a lot, except when there are a lot of models and need the wide angle. The 110 is the reason I went with the RZ instead of the RB, it's nice to have such a fast lens and although a little tighter in able of view than the average 'normal' (I guess the 90 is the real normal) it's incredibily versatile. The 180 is beautiful for outdoors, larger studios and perfect for tight headshots. Harder to shoot without a tripod; the 65 and the 110 I use handheld to about 1/60 - 1/30th of a second. I did get the grip and I recommend it. After a day shooting with this beast you'll feel like having had a day at the fitness center!<br>

PS -I don't know which workflow you'll be using but I've had quite some troubles getting scans from fuji films right, and Kodak is perfect right away.</p>

<p>Some examples perhaps? :)<br>

65mm: kodak portra 400NC<br>

<img src="http://www.raccou.com/files/gimgs/29_2010-11-26-03-05b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="644" /><br>

110mm:Fuji pro 160 S<br>

<img src="http://www.raccou.com/files/gimgs/29_061.jpg" alt="" width="646" height="800" /></p>

<p>180mm: Fuji pro 160S<br>

<img src="http://www.raccou.com/files/gimgs/35_evalandskouter.jpg" alt="" width="624" height="800" /></p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Hi Edo and welcome to medium format A la RZ! I'ved used the RZ for years in fashion and although it's no longer my main system for shooting fashion, Hasselblad H3D has taken that spot due to it's digital capability I now use my RZ for food photography. The RZ is a great system and I think youre going to love using it especially with those lenses you mention. I have just three, the 50, the 110 and the 180 and that is all i need with that camera. I also use extension tubes so that helps get close. I also use a digital back with the RZ that allows me to get even closer to the food! One piece of advice though, get a good tripod you'll need it. It's a heavy son of a gun but once you get used to it the other cameras seem childish.<br />Anyways, good luck shooting with it and by all means post some pictures soon.</p>

<p>Cheers!</p>

<p>This image was shot handheld though. It's good exercise for the biceps.</p><div>00YQu1-341117584.jpg.301b9ffa7bc052a3920ce58e9f9e8d7f.jpg</div>

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