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Tripods- is there a practical alternative ?


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<p>Hi all,<br>

I have a problem.</p>

<p>I normally shoot with a tripod 99% of the time. Being from India, I do a lot of photography there when I visit my country. Tripods, in general are prohibited in any of the heritage buildings and obtaining a permission for it is almost impossible in my experience.</p>

<p>So, I have never obtained satisfactory results handheld. For example, I have visited the Taj Mahal at least 6 times, taken more than a thousand pictures, none acceptable and I have applied the best handheld technic I know!</p>

<p>What is an alternative ? Inputs from users of those devices will be appreciated. I have a bush hawk but do not find it practical and convenient.</p>

<p>Please advise.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

 

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<p>One old trick is to use a <a href="
tripod</a>. Basically you screw a small eye bolt into the tripod socket on your camera, tie on a piece of strong string, nylon cord, etc., dangle the cord to the ground, and step on it. It creates tension and therefore steadiness. Some people make the cord into a loop and put their foot into the loop. It costs very little and fits in your pocket. Google 'string tripod' and you'll see a few ways to rig one. Hope this helps.</p>
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<p>Use your environment to steady your camera. Pillars, walls, floor, ledges, stairs. Get creative with your point of view. Places like the Taj Mahal have probably been worked to death anyway. Do something different.</p>
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<p>Do everything you can to steady the camera but have you tried cranking up the ISO? If you can go to 800 or 1600 without getting objectionable noise levels, that may go a long way toward solving your problem. VR/IS can help, but it needs to be on a reasonably fast lens, like a 2.8, where it is actually giving you ability to handold at lower shutter speeds rather than making up for a slow maximum aperture at the same shutter speed.</p>
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<p>If you are shooting film, get faster film.<br /> If you are shooting digital, crank up the ISO. If necessary, clean up noise afterward in postprocessing.<br /> [for dark subjects there is no such thing as too much noise or grain if the alternative is no picture at all]</p>

<p>Get really fast lenses. For 35mm size, an f/1.2 is handy</p>

<p>A monopod will usually work, but most places that won't allow tripods are fairly unwelcoming to monopods as well.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>The advice to use faster film or higher ISO, or faster lenses, of course refers to the higher shutter speeds which you can then use. Find the shutter speed at which you can produce a sharp image. That will be your lowest handheld speed, and proper exposure will then have to be achieved through adjustment of aperture and the ISO speed you use. With better technique, that minimum speed will improve.</p>

<p>Work on your technique. Try different methods of hand holding. It's very important to keep your arms in against your body. Brace yourself against things. A bean bag works very well for using available surfaces, allowing the camera to conform to a variety of surfaces and still be easy to position.</p>

<p>One of the best ways to improve steadiness is this: just before you take the picture, take a full breath, then just relax and let it flow out. At the moment your breath is out, gently press the shutter release. Which brings to mind: never jab down on the shutter release. Gently press it, with just enough force to get it to fire. Get to know your camera's shutter release action well.</p>

<p>Maybe drink less tea or coffee? ;^)</p>

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<p>Places which forbid the use of tripods are unlikely to tolerate monopods or "Gorilla" pods either. No amount of Zen is going to keep a camera still without some sort of fixed support. I've used a beanbag against walls and rails with good results, and not been challenged by the docents.</p>
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