Polaroid Type 57

[DEGREEFOTO]

<p>Hi all,<br>

Have searched for info re this type of film with very little results, as I have been given a unopened box which has been kept in the fridge... dated 07/07 rated at ISO 3000.<br>

First things that come to mind was the use in low light conditions and also being out of date I have read that perhaps rate it at ISO1500. Apart from that I have never used it before hand and would like any ones help re the use and what is in the small plastic containers containing liquid and marked with 'For B/W Film Only' that come with the film...no doubt to finish of the processing...but in what way. I have used Polaroids before hand...but not this film.<br>

Any help would be greatly appreciated and forgive me if my request has already been addressed.<br>

Artur</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>The real question is whether the developer reagent pods are still any good. They aren't really hermetically sealed, and the contents are corrosive, so they may very well be bricks now.<br /> The coater stabilizes the print, you need to wipe it to get a layer of the stuff on there, or it will turn pale brown quite fast.</p>

[leicaglow]

<p>Artur, Another way I've worked with these films is to simply do a high rez scan on a decent flatbed scanner.</p>

[DEGREEFOTO]

<p>@ John...thanks John for the info...the developer is still very much a liquid in the containers. I take it that I would need to wipe the liquid onto the print as soon as I peel it apart.<br>

@Michael...yes my intentions are to do that, but am I wrong to think that rating the film at 1500 instead of the 3000 and only use it in low light conditions would be the way to go?</p>

[nickc1]

<p>Adding to what John has already said - the weakness with Polaroid that is out of date lies in the stability of the developer pods, not the film losing speed. Developer pods can dry up or leak - they can also freeze and burst - then the film will not process. The film itself was made for Polaroid (I don't know what type 57 was, but slower films were kodak Plus X as a example) and will last as well as any other format - for fast B&W the issue will be fogging, not loss of speed, although 4 years past sell by date is not that long. But the issue, as has already been stated, is the state of the developer, not the film.</p>

<p>Give it a try and post your results to give us all more data on old polaroid.</p>

[matthew_stott]

<p>Hey Artur,</p>

<p>I have used plenty of type 57 that was much older than your 2007 batch with no problems. I have always just rated the film at 3000, but you will know right away if you need to slow it down a bit.</p>

<p>The developer is inside the film pack- not the tubes. The tubes are only a coating for the film- they have nothing to do with developing. If you take the photo, wait the 30 seconds (or whatever the time for 57 is)- then peel it apart you will have an image. You then coat the film with the goopy squeegie stuff whenever you get a chance. It is like a varnish for the film, and it can be tough to spread the coating and avoid the bubbles that will appear.<br>

I never bothered to use the coating with most of the type 57 I shot, but I was not really using it for archival purposes.</p>

<p>Good luck and have fun- 57 is a great film.</p>

<p>Matt</p>

[DEGREEFOTO]

<p>Thank you so much Matt...will post the finished shots once I get a chance....I intend to use the film, after taking on board advise, at the rated speed. The subject matter will mainly be typical Spanish towns with narrow streets...so there will be plenty of shade at best..<br>

Once again thanks</p>

<p>Artur</p>