Finding exposure for flash.

[ewanbachell]

<p>Ok, I havn't really had much practice using flash but I can never seem to find the right exposure to get the subject to "pop" properly.<br>

I have flash triggers that can sync at 1/250, though as long as the light is sufficient they will fire successfully at most speeds.<br>

What I don't know is what I should be aiming for with regards to aperture and shutter speed. Should I go for underexposure so that the area the flash lights is brighter or should I go for correct exposure and use the flash on top? Thats what I usually do but it doesn't seem to work.<br>

Also, I want to shoot showboarders but I have this problem, the flash just doesn't seem powerful enough to create a strong light, or is the light just lost because the overall shot is bright in the snow?<br>

Any help or pointers you cam give me would be much appreciated. Thanks muchly.</p><div></div>

[lornesunley]

<p>When you are taking pictures with snow (or lots of white in the frame) the metering systems in your camera will always calculate an exposure that will be 1 to 2 stops under-exposed. The metering systems calculate exposure based on an overall 18% grey. You should use at least an extra stop. If the camera meters to f/5.6 you should set the aperture to f/4 or f/3.5. You can also use the exposure compensation to up the exposure. You have to do the same thing with the calculated flash exposure.</p>

[lornesunley]

<p>I took the liberty of pushing up the brightness on your shot. If you took the picture in RAW, try adjusting the exposure compensation by 1 to 1.5 stops and see what the effect of a larger aperture will have.</p><div></div>

[rob_piontek]

<p>You will probably run into your 1/250 sync speed, and at that point the only solution is more flash power. In your case here you can see much of your flash is hitting the foreground snow. You might try a snoot with a reflective inside to try an direct more light at the snowboarder and less at the snow. You can make one yourself from cardboard and tin foil for a start. </p>

<p>Generally you want to underexpose the ambient slightly, and use flash to bring the subject exposure back up. But there are no rules and the lighting scenarios outdoors are always changing. Bright sky in your frame, like you have, can force your ambient exposure to be where you don't really want it to be. Try composing so there is no sky in your frame, maybe it will help. </p>

<p>Best thing is to look at your ambient exposure without flash, play with a bit, and figure out what you can do with it. What is the light doing and how can you change things? By balancing ambient and flash exposure you can draw your attention to the subject. </p>

[kevin_delson]

<blockquote>

<p>Should I go for underexposure so that the area the flash lights is brighter</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>How? Closing down your aperture will almost cripple your effective range of the flash.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>I have flash triggers that can sync at 1/250</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Are you saying your max sync is 1/250th or you are using wireless triggers?<br>

If you are using wireless triggers, then why are you using the flash from the camera position?</p>

<p>One of the keys to shooting snow scenes, especially when there is action, is to choose your time of day wisely. The pic I'm attaching here was shot early morning, well before the dynamic range of the scene exceeded my camera's ability to capture it. Had I shot this at mid day, the result would not be as pleasing.</p>

<p>There are several ways to capture the snowboarders action, but w/o knowing what equip you have, it's difficult to figure a work around for you.</p>

<p>High powered focused strobes, triggered wireless with the light source close to subject yet out of frame is one way.<br>

Early morning or late afternoon would work better.</p>

<p>I suggest a F.L in the 80-300mm range. Vertical orientation (which has nothing to do with exposure) is generally better for this type of shot.<br>

Meter the snow so it is rendered white w/o clipping too much. A<strong> little</strong> white clipping is ok.<br>

Your subject will be underexposed unless they are wearing a pure white snow suit. (Hint) :)<br>

Now use your remote flash to expose for your subject (The Snowboarder)</p>

<div></div>

[pete_s.]

<p>You need more flash power or higher sync speed to minimize the amount of daylight or shoot in the evening.</p>

[russ_britt3]

<p>The flash determines the fstop, the ambient light determines the shutter speed (this depends on your camera being able to sync with the fast at that speed) I always use Hasselblads with flash because the 500 series camera sync at any shutter speed. Just a side note, you can increase the shutter speed to get more flash in you exposure, decrease it to get more ambient light in the exposure. But you need a flash meter to set this all up correctly and shoot the flash in manual to have control, as the snow will trip the automatic settings. It really easy if you have a meter.....</p>

[russ_britt3]

<p>flash nor fast, sorry</p>