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Kodak Vollenda question


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Hi all,

 

I recently acquired a neat example of Kodak Vollenda 620 6x9 folder. It is in a nice condition with flawless bellows, clean anstigmat

10,5 cm f4,5 and the shutter times sound okay by ear. The only thing that I'm a little worried about is the right amount of opening of

the folding system. It clicks and locks open, but does not quite manage to fold back to rest on the claws of the locking mechanism so

there's room for movement both towards the closed position and/ or a more extended position.

 

So. Should I manually push it back against its rests (i.e the locking claws) or try to keep it as open as possible to achieve a

maximally extended posture with tight bellows and seemingly most parallele lens to film ?

 

Thanks for help,

 

Pasi

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<p>Here is a link to the original instruction manual. There are two things to note when closing the camera :</p>

<p>1) the lens must be focused at infinity</p>

<p>2) the viewfinder must be in the upright position.</p>

<p>Don't know if that helps but worth knowing anyway.</p>

<p>http://www.cameramanuals.org/kodak_pdf/kodak_vollenda_620.pdf</p>

<p>But if the camera still doesn't want to fold up I would not force it.</p>

 

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<p>Colin's correct. Read the manual... these Nagel folders sometimes have tricky ways of closing and such. Best not to force anything unless you like bent parts and off-kilter lens standards.<br /> I just loaded my Volenda 620 with Neopan yesterday. A roll of 120 will fit int he film chamber if you trim the plastic spool <strong>very</strong> closely. Either use the original 620 takeup spool or insert another trimmed 120 spool. Make sure the fished roll is wound tightly before removing from camera.<br /> I hope to see photos of and by your Kodak soon. <br /> (PS: Message to everyone who finds Mr. Butkus's camera manual site to their satisfaction - please donate the very small sum so he can keep providing an invaluable resource to all of us classic camera fans.)</p>
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Thank you for the pointers. Luckily the bellows are in a surprisingly soft state so closing is not a problem.I suppose

there's a tired spring somewhere as the open position is not at all rigid so it's a bit of a guess what the correct opening

length of the bellows system is. I think I'll just push it the framework against its stoppers and see what I'll get I got two

620 spools with the camera, so I'm off to see whether there's still a store around here that has 120 on their shelf!

 

Gábor: did you have to shorten the spool ends as well, or was it enough to trim the rims?

 

Pasi

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<p>No, just clip the flange on each end as close to the backing paper as possible, pretty much flush with the paper. You may find that winding the film requires a little more effort when you start out, but a clipped roll of 120 will fit.<br>

Don't forget to use a piece of black electrical tape over the ruby window to avoid fogging the rollfilm.<br>

I'll try to get some sample pics from my Vollenda up and running by Sunday. Meanwhile, Pasi, show us your folder, please !</p>

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I'll try to post a picture when I get home. It's actually a front focusing f7,7 anastigmat, maybe a later/more affodable

model? A metal plate is provided for covering the film peek window.

 

 

Now how should I go about the 120 film markings. HP5 shoul have 19 numbers, maybe for 6x6? There's no

mechanical counter on the camera .

 

Pasi

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<p>Here's the camera, finally. My one and only and first MF and CMC so far. Note the absence of brilliant crystal viewfinder and the handy cover plate in the back :-) I ran a roll of HP5 through and developed with the Paterson. Looks ok with a lupe. Guess if I have a MF scanner ... It's going to be a pee-in-the-bucket-day for the family again !<br>

Its f7,7-22, shuttter times T,B, 25-100.<br>

Do you think it`s a post-WW example ?</p>

<p>Pasi</p>

<p> </p><div>00Y7ou-326605584.jpg.74b5920bc34230f8c3397b8d527fe9a8.jpg</div>

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