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using sb-30 as IR remote commander for sb-26


moosekaka_lim

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<p>Some optical slaves were sensitive to wider light spectrum, and both visible and IR light was able to trigger them. Chances are slim that IR alone would triger another flash at arated distance, but you need to try it.</p>

<p>You used a word "commander" that usually means much more than just the trigering.</p>

<p>You could possibly triger one flash by the other, but you will not be able to command it.<br>

For commanding, in Nikon's sense, you would needd the CLS system to operate, and none of the flashes (SB-30 or SB-26) is capable of doing.</p>

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<p>Just buy a cheap radio trigger kit off *bay and save yourself any grief.</p>

<p>BTW electronic flash output is rich in IR anyway, so most so-called IR trigger systems actually just use bursts of visible light from the Xenon tube itself. Only the receiver end is filtered to make it less sensitive to ambient light.</p>

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<p>Sounds like you're trying to do remote TTL.</p>

<p>The SB-30 has a pup-up infrared panel, it's essentially opaque to visible light and only passes the infrared part of the flash. Your subject may see a dim red flash, but they probably won't, because they'll be too distracted by the SB-26 firing white light.</p>

<p>In order to use the SB-30 as a TTL master and the SB-26 in SU-4 TTL mode as a remote, you have to pull put the IR panel on the SB-30, and make sure that the SB-26 is in a position where its remote window can see the SB-30. That window is on the left side of the flash, as it faces away from you, so you'll have the best luck with the SB-26 to the right of the camera. It usually works best if the SB-26 is closer to the subject than the camera and SB-30, too, because the SB-30 won't shine much IR behind you.</p>

<p>And, if you've got the SB-26 facing into an umbrella, it will be backwards, so now the window is on the right, and you want the SB-26 on your left.</p>

<p>Don't worry about what Frank says: the SB-26 is <strong>only </strong>sensitive to IR, it has an infrared passing window that is opaque to visible light, and it's built to do exactly what you're trying to do. Odds are, it won't work outdoors in sunlight, and it won't work indoors past about 20 feet away from the camera, but it does work for small portrait and event situations.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Just buy a cheap radio trigger kit off *bay and save yourself any grief.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Can you recommend one that does TTL?</p>

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<p>The SB-26 will trigger from the SB-30 but I have doubts that the built in trigger on the SB-26 is a TTL type (one that responds to the start and end or the flash pulse, like the SU-4 add-on does). You can always try it but be prepared to have to set the power of the SB-26 manually.</p>
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