Nikon 28-70 f/2.8 And Gitzo Ball Head 1276?

[k_michael]

<p>I'm having a problem with creeping when I use this head with my Nikon D700 and the 28-70 F/2.8 lens. When I place the camera in the vertical position, the camera and lens creep down due to gravity and weight. This has become a huge problem since I shoot often at night doing time exposure. I was told that an anti twist plate was not available. I then looked into a collar ring and found nothing. Help!</p>

[dan_brown4]

<p>Do you have an ACRA plate and corresponding ball-head fitting?<br>

They work beautifully and solve the creep problem.<br>

(assuming it is not the ball itself creeping)</p>

[jose_angel]

<p>You definitely need an anti-twist plate. The most useful use to be the Arca-Swiss compatible ones, that have to be used with quick release clamps. They are widely available.<br /> It could be interesting to have a L-type one, for vertical&horizontal camera position.</p>

[dan_brown4]

<p>Here is a picture of a D700 L-plate:<br>

<img src="http://www.kirkphoto.com/images/BLD7000a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="600" /></p>

[jose_angel]

<p>Wait... the 1276 is an already quick release device... you`d have to attach the Arca-Swiss clamp to your plates, and that`s a not so beautiful idea.<br /> There is a Gitzo adapter for that A-S plates, that works bad to my taste and with a really ugly feel. It`s called GS5160CDT. A waste of money, IMHO.<br /> Better to start from scratch, buying an already installed right clamp. RRS, Kirk, Markins, Arca-Swiss, Acratech...</p>

[jose_angel]

<p>... a new ball head, I mean.<br>

If you`re handy you can modify your Gitzo plate, removing part of the cork and gluing (with epoxy) somekind of tab. Not the best solution but way cheaper (and should work).</p>

[dan_brown4]

<p>Well, I'll just say this.</p>

<p>K Michael is already taking his photography with some care. And, I postponed going to a Kirk ball head and ARCA plates for my cameras far too many years. That was a mistake. Once I jumped n the bandwagon, life was much much easier, and I found using the tripod much more inviting.</p>

<p>I say, make the transition, and don't look back.</p>

[ron_snyder6]

<p>To stop the problem with the equipment you already have, simply flip the camera to the vertical position, but the opposite way. Flip it so the handgrip is at the top. This way, the camera is actually trying to tighten instead of loosening. It will only tighten so much before it is no longer an issue. I learned this years ago shooting a Nikon F3HP with motor drive & a Nikon 180/2.8... A friend also had the same problem & now shoots verticals like this as well. It may feel strange doing it this way at first, but after only a short time, it feels normal to me & my shooting partner.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>If you flip the vertical position to the opposite (right) side with Gitzo QR, the camera still slips unless you grossly overtighten the fitting.</p>

[jose_angel]

<p>It could be a good idea to replace the cork slice with somekind of rigid plastic... but it still must be a little bit soft or sticky to avoid loosening.</p>

<p>That cork works great on bigger plates for square format or revolving back cameras, but are useless on all the rest.</p>

[ron_snyder6]

<p>I never had a problem with a QR plate "grossly" over tightening unless its just with a Gitzo plate. Mine have always tightened until it was firmly tight & that was it. To over tighten a plate requires putting quite a bit of stress on the bolt & the weight of the camera w/ lens does not put that much stress on it as to over tighten it. If this still doesn't work for you, then you need to invest in an anti-twist plate usually made spacifically for your camera.</p>

[k_michael]

<p>An anti twist plate is not available from Gitzo</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>Most of us with any experience have a closet full of heads, culminating in the purchase of a good ball head with Arca-Swiss type QR. We have come to this conclusion based on experience similar to that of the OP, not out of some prejudice against Gitzo or Manfrotto. In short, "Been there, done that."</p>

<p>There are similar systems to the Arca compatible QR, but none with the wide range of available plates and clamps. The bevel-plate design is similar to that used for machine tools, where the need for precision and security is paramount.</p>

[k_michael]

<p>It looks like Arca Swiss is the way to go. Is a double pan model really necessary? I just saw a SP on B&H's site for a lot less than what a DP costs</p>

[jose_angel]

<p>Currently, and IMO an A-S original is not a must. They have a right price now, thought, but there are many other ball heads that works equally good.</p>

<p>As Edward says, the conclusion is to get an Arca-Swiss <strong>type</strong> QR system. The original ball heads are very good (I own two of them), but maybe you prefer a lighter one. Otherwise, I believe A-S original doesn`t have plates specifically designed for certain camera models. Specific plate designs are nicer to my taste.</p>

<p>I have never had a double pan head. If I need to pan the camera in an given plane with an unleveled tripod, I just use a "normal" ball head face down with a detachable QR clamp. Most times you only need to level the tripod to get an horizontal paning plane. Also, a double pan head could weight a ton.</p>

<p>Don`t know if a double pan head is specially interesting for other uses. <br /><br /></p>

[dan_brown4]

<p>ARCA tends to be used as a generic reference to the system design. Personally, I use Kirk Photo plates and ball heads, which I think are excellent. There are others that are also excellent. For example, the Really Right Stuff plate on my F100 is every bit as good as the Kirk plate on my D700. But, I always check with Kirk first.</p>

<p>YMMV.</p>

[k_michael]

<p>I solved the problem and it cost me nothing.</p>