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New Canon SLR


carol_young

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<p>A few weeks ago I posted a detailed question about buying a new SLR and the responses helped me tremendously. I have decided on a Canon 60D and will be buying one lense for it as the kit lenses that come with it, added on to the price of the body alone are the same price as they are if you bought them sepate. I therefore think I should buy the body and choose one lense that I would really need and use. I currently have two lenses from my old film Canon EOS Rebel G. THEY are:<br>

35-80 mm 0.4m/1.3ft<br>

100-300mm ( I used this lense a lot)<br>

I understand from your help as well as the help of the camera stores that these lenses will work fine with a new SLR. I am a true beginner and need as much help as possible choosing a lense to suit my needs. I mostley photograph horse portraits with some action, and landscapes, as well as some Macro and still life. I would like a reasonable quality lense under $800 australian dollars that would best fit in with my program and the other lenses.<br>

Thank you for any help that you can give me. It is all much appreciated.</p>

<p>Carol Young</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>I mostley [sic.] photograph horse portraits with some action, and landscapes, as well as some Macro and still life. I would like a reasonable quality lense under $800 australian dollars that would best fit in with my program and the other lenses.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I'm afraid that there isn't a <em>single </em>lens that's suitable for all of your applications, Carol. </p>

<p>I'll let others chime in with recommendations of lenses for specific applications.</p>

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<p>If I understand correctly: the kit lens would be the <strong>EF-S 18 to 55 F/3.5-5.6 IS</strong>. Also that lens would not be AUS$800; but closer to AUS$170.<br>

So that means you would have about $630 in kitty (from the $800).<br>

If you are really keen on Macro but on a budget then the EF50/1.8MkII at about AUS$130. And set of Kenko extension Rings at AUS$ 200</p>

<p>That’s my “complete” Purchase Suggestion, to address what you outlined: and you will have $300 still in your budget. It will give you one fast lens should you wish to shoot the horses inside, but it is a Prime Lens and you will need to be able to adjust your shooting distance to suit. But that will not give you as Tripod (for Macro). Or a Flash - But you have $300 spare.</p>

<p>But maybe hang off on the Kenko Rings and also hang off on the 50/1.8MkII also and just buy the 17 to 55, which seems to me to be a reasonable mate for the 100 to 300 (assumed EF100 to 300 F4.5 – 5.6 USM) and that leaves $630 in the kitty to spend later as you refine your needs<br>

<br>

My bottom line answer to you is actually a question:<br>

<em><strong>Why are you NOT considering the EF-S 18 to 55 kit lens? Why do you feel it is not suitable? </strong></em></p>

<p>I cannot find the previous posting you mentioned, to assist me better understand your needs and your question. </p>

<p>WW<br>

</p>

 

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<p>Hi Carol<br>

You have a lovely camera so make the most of it and buy the best possible lenses you can-you'll keep them longer than the camera body I suspect!<br>

It is hard to get decent glass for that money and, as I say to everyone that comes on my workshops, no matter how many megapixels are in your camra's sensor, the technical quality of your pictures is decided by the glass you put in front of it. Would you put a cheap kit lens on the latest top range SLR and expect sharp results-no; it's impossible as the sensor is not allowed to gather the information because of the poor glass. <br>

So, what do I suggest based on my expereince? The canon 17-85mm is a good lens that is around your price range. My wife uses it on a 40D and the results are excellent, only draw back is the maximum aperture sizes. Alternatively, I have used a Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 lens and the results were very sharp-I have printed up to 24inches with flawless results and this lens is cheaper than Canon's own branded stuff. <br>

Ultimately, if can face it, buy the L series lenses-they are the best and they will remain with you always as you upgrade your camera body over the years.<br>

<hr>

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<p>Thank you so much for your input. THE ONLY reason that I am not considering a kit lense is I can actually buy the kit lenses offered for the same price stand alone as what the body plus price is when these lenses are included. If this makes sense, I have decided to buy a body and one higher quality lense. (I have the lenses from my Canon RebelG film camera) I have never used a Tameron lense. I have heard positive and negative on them.<br>

As I understand from many hours of study that it is all about the lense if you have a reasonable camera. I am trying to get something that I will use forever even if I change or upgrade camera bodies. The longer I wait the better the budget so after christmas I may be able to spend up to 1000 for a really good quality lense. Fingers crossed.<br>

William please forgive my ingnorance as I am a true beginner. Can you explain the significance of limited aperature size? I honestly dont want to sound stupid but I have done so much research just to buy the camera that most of the information is a jumble in my mind. I have written down both of those lenses that you recomend and along with some advice from others it seems that they are a good choice.<br>

Thank you one and all for each and every bit of info. I want and need every little morsel.<br>

Carol</p>

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<p>One difference between lower end lenses and higher priced ones is the aperture size. You'll see "pro" lenses that are listed with a single aperture, like f2.8 for many zooms. This means you can keep the same shutter speed or ISO setting as you zoom the lens. You can also keep a narrow range of focus, that an aperture of , say, f2.8 can give. The consumer zooms are a lot cheaper, but to do that, they have a variable aperture. As you zoom, the aperture changes, so the camera needs to alter ( or you do, if in manual mode ) the shutter speed, or ISO to keep the shot exposed the same. It also means you can not keep a narrow range of focus, as the lens goes from f3.5 ( already more close than that f2.8 lens ) to f5.6 as you zoom to the long end. The shutter speed issue often crops up in low light situations. At the wide end of the lens, you can get the shot, but as you zoom, the shutter speed has to drop and maybe it goes low enough you can't get a sharp shot, while hand held, or the movement of the subject makes it blur where it was OK before.</p>

<p> </p>

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<blockquote>

<p><strong><em>"I have decided to buy a body and one higher quality lense."</em></strong></p>

</blockquote>

<p>OK. I understand that.<br>

IMO the best standard zoom lens for the 60D is the <em><strong>EF-S 17 to 55F/2.8 IS USM</strong></em> and that lens would be about AUS$1200 at the discount places I expect. I have used this lens and I am impressed with it.<br>

Tamron has a similar lens in two models I believe - the lens mentioned above by Alex. I have not used the Tamron Lens but I know of some Professional Wedding Colleagues who use the non VR version of the Tamron lens and their comments concur with what Alex has written.<br>

They report the Tamron lens is a little soft at the edges, when it is used at its wide open aperture at 50mm: nothing to be too disturbed about I suspect.</p>

<p>***</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p><strong><em>"Can you explain the significance of limited aperture size?"</em></strong></p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>I am not sure what you mean, but this might be the explanation you want.<br>

The smaller the F/stop number (e.g. F/1.4 and F/2) the larger the aperture, the more light that can get onto the image sensor.<br>

The larger the F/stop number (e.g. F/5.6 and F/8) the smaller the aperture the less light gets onto the image sensor.<br>

For any given scene, if we can allow more light in, we can have a faster shutter speed and or a s lower ISO. The faster shutter speed means we can better freeze subject motion or alleviate camera shake. Lower ISO means less noise.<br>

So Photographers generally like lenses which are “fast”, which means they have a large maximum aperture. Having a lens with a large maximum aperture does not mean we have to use the lens at that aperture all the time, but it does mean we have that large aperture available, should we need to use it.<br>

Also another reason for liking lenses with a large maximum aperture is we can create a narrower <strong>Depth of Field</strong>. Also the viewfinder is brighter.</p>

<p>**There are two (common) categories of lenses, defined by their Aperture functionality:</p>

<ul>

<li>Non Varying Maximum Aperture</li>

<li>Varying Maximum Aperture</li>

</ul>

<p>These two categories are particular to Zoom Lenses.<br>

The Tamron 17 to 50 F/2.8 and the EF-S 17 to 55 F/2.8 are the first type – the MAXIMUM aperture available is NON-VARYING as the lens is zoomed – F/2.8 is available to use at all times.<br>

The kit lens (EF-S 18 to 55 F/3.5 – F5.6) is an example of the second type: the maximum aperture available to use VARIES as the lens is zoomed: at 18mm we have F/3.5 available, but at 55mm we only have F/5.6.<br>

There are Photographers who generally do not like Varying Maximum Aperture zoom lenses, and I am one. And I have many reasons, but not necessary to go there now – the main point is the Tamron and the Canon F/2.8 zooms are faster zooms than any of the Varying Maximum Aperture Zooms and I think that is what you are asking about.<br>

Apologies for not knowing something are not necessary.</p>

<p>WW</p>

<p>** Technical Note: there is a third type of lens category with regard to aperture, and that is a <strong>Fixed Aperture Lens</strong>. The most common example are some Mirror Telephoto Lenses. I am not aware of any Zoom Lenses, in this Category, <br>

</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Post script:<br>

John was writing at the same time as me. <br>

This example he gave, is one of the reasons why I don't particularly like Varying Maxium Aperture Zooms: <br>

<em> </em><br>

<em>"The shutter speed issue often crops up in low light situations. At the wide end of the lens, you can get the shot, but as you zoom, the shutter speed has to drop and maybe it goes low enough you can't get a sharp shot, while hand held, or the movement of the subject makes it blur where it was OK before."</em><br>

<em> </em><br>

WW</p>

 

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<p>OK I am beginning to understand the whole world of lenses a bit better. I am ready to order my camera and am wondering if anyone has used eglobal digital cameras. They have the best price and the cameras have a 1 year Canon warranty (to the closest Canon dealer) I am in Australia and this company ship world wide and give the price in Australian dollars. The cameras come from their warehouse in Japan.<br>

I have not confirmed the order as I have not decide on the lense quite yet. I have read and re read twice the information supplied to me by the very very nice and competent people on this site.</p>

<p>I own the following Canon lenses from my old Canon RebelG EOS film camera<br>

35-80 0.4m this lense has a small picture of the macro icon next to the 0.4m/1.3 ft<br>

100 - 300mm I cant find any other information on this lense. Just a lot of numbers that I dont understand<br>

I am considering these lenses and I have indicated the price of them if purchased from eglobal digital cameras<br>

OF the following lenses which do you think I could get the most all round use out of and will also complement the lenses that I already have. I do not understand what all the letters stand for.<br>

Canon<br>

EFS IS 17-85 $368<br>

EFS S 15 - 85 690<br>

EFS S 10-22 690<br>

EF IS USM 24 - 105 932 (This one is a little pricey but I can squeeze by if I dont buy a tripod.<br>

Thank you so much for your time<br>

Carol</p>

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<p>Just a note to update all of you that are helping me. I am uncomfortable with the company that I want to buy the camera from so have decided to go with a local Australia based company. That means I will pay 400 more for the camera but it is just not worth ordering something that expensive if it turns out I can not get it repaired or serviced here or that it may not even be covered here in Australia. I am sad to say I am nearly in tears over this. Makes the lense purchase a little more difficult now.<br>

ONCE again I just want to say thanks to all the considerate folks out there. You have been unbelievably helpful.<br>

Carol</p>

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<p>If you have concerns about repairs and warrantees by Canon Australia, then, my advice is that you need to be <strong><em>Fu</em></strong><em><strong>lly Aware of Canon Australia's Repair and Warrantee policies</strong></em>. <br>

You could contact Canon Australia on Monday.<br>

This is also my advice.<br>

However in the meantime, to the best of my knowledge I understand:</p>

<ul>

<li>buying from an Australian Company, located in Australia, does not ensure that the camera is covered under warrantee, by Canon Australia – the camera might have been imported directly by that company and not via Canon Australia</li>

<li>buying a Camera from ANY overseas company, there is no warrantee from Canon Australia.</li>

</ul>

<p>Also, apropos buying from Overseas, you should be aware of any Duty and or GST, which might be applicable and include that, in your budget. <br>

WW<br>

</p>

 

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<p>Hi Carol<br>

I think you posted in reply to my info that you were prepared to buy the best lens on the basis you could keep it for life and certainly longer than the camera body-a good conclusion in my view. So, on that basis you need to look at the Canon L series-you have the 24-105 f4 listed above which is excellent, alternatively the 24-70 f2.8. They seem expensive but you'll save in the long run-I made the mistake of buying intermediate lenses like the EFS and Tamron range-they are sharp but they don;t last as long and it's a false economy if you are a regular user of your gear outside a studio.<br>

Regards<br>

Alex Hare</p>

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<p>I just want to thank each and every person that made suggestions or gave me information. It was all relevant to my purchase and saved me from making some huge mistakes. I will always be grateful for that. I have finally made my purchase and am getting:<br>

Canon 60D with the 18-55 IS Kit lens and extra battery and big memory card.<br>

I will be saving to purchase the 24-70 f2.8 lense early next year. Is this a sensible purchase? This lense is nearly 2000 dollars in Australia but I understand its a very good one. I have 500 left from my budget this year so am buying a tripod. Any suggestions on brand, type etc etc. I have never used a tripod in my photography depending on fences, posts or whatever else is handy if I need to make sure and reduce shake. I also have the 2 lenses from my canon film rebel that I will be able to use until I get my new keep it forever lense.<br>

Once again thank you and if anyone has any more advice or information please feel free to let me know.<br>

Best Regards<br>

Carol</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>I have finally made my purchase and am getting: Canon 60D with the 18-55 IS Kit lens and extra battery and big memory card. I will be saving to purchase the 24-70 f2.8 lense early next year. Is this a sensible purchase?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I suggest you use the kit lens that you buy: and especially <strong><em>consider if you use the IS a lot</em></strong> and <strong><em>if you use 18mm to 23mm FL range</em></strong>, often.</p>

<p>If you <strong><em>do not</em></strong> use the IS often and you do not use the wide angle end of the kit lens - then the 24 to 70/2.8L, will likely be a very good purchase for you.<br />If you find the opposite; and you do like the IS feature and you do use the wide anlge of the lens, then I direct you to the recommendation I made previously:</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em><strong>"I have decided to buy a body and one higher quality lense."</strong></em><br /><em>IMO the best standard zoom lens for the 60D is the <strong>EF-S 17 to 55F/2.8 IS USM</strong> and that lens would be about AUS$1200 at the discount places I expect. I have used this lens and I am impressed with it.<br /><br /></em></p>

</blockquote>

<p><em></em><br />WW</p>

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