Weatherstripping as light seal material?

[brian_m.1]

<p>Is the adhesive-backed spongy weatherstripping good for repairing light seals? </p>

<p><img src="http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/caulks-sealants/foam-tape.jpg" alt="" width="248" height="198" /></p>

[chuck_foreman1]

<p>I can't say, I've ever tried it! Although... as I hold that in memory from 30 years ago, and remember now the stuff that's causing a lot of headaches on cameras from that same era, ie sticky foam seals that deteriorate and those that cause mirrors to stick up. Hmmm... Maybe this is the same stuff?? Good for sealing windows and doors on old wooden houses or aluminum window frames... but cameras??? It could also be that the chemical construction has changed so that it won't deteriorate to mush!</p>

 

[brian_m.1]

<p>There was this thread on this topic last year http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00SVtt He suggested using wool yarn and glue. I am not sure I like the glue idea inside the camera. I always think shoe laces to be a great fit in those channels! At least they don't shed.</p>

[rogerwb]

<p>Why not just spring for the right stuff from Jon Goodman ? He is on this site frequently and may just pop in. Otherwise, he sells on ebay under the S/N Interslice.<br>

The widow treatment stuff is much too thick. If you don't want the custom kits, the next best stuff is the Foamie stuff from arts and crafts stores but it is too thick for some applications.</p>

[Tony Evans]

<p>GM's Goodwrench chamois, cut to any size, glued in and painted with black marking ink. Perfect!</p>

[brian_m.1]

<p>I hadn't heard <em>that</em> one before.</p>

[david_carroll4]

<p>I used this stuff to line a Nikon plain finder (3/8" foam - I think it was for an F finder). I imagine the original foam was to prevent extraneous light getting in through the gap between the skirt of the finder and the top plate of the camera body, although I hardly think this is a critical problem with a non-metering finder. The problem with using it for regular light seal duty is that it's just too thick, and I can't imagine being able to shave it down and maintain consistent thickness. Jon Goodman's foams range from 1mm - 3 mm. Even 1/8" weatherstripping foam is at the thick end of this range, so it might do as a mirror bumper, but I imagine it would be too thick to seal a film door.</p>

[frank.schifano]

<p>Just get the stuff from Interslice. You won't be sorry.</p>

[mfophotos]

<p>Craft stores sell adhesive backed foam and adhesive-backed black felt. The weatherseal stuff is is way too thick, and the foam to airy. You want fairly dense stuff that is thin. The only weatherizing foam I would use is the tubular stuff to put on my tripod legs. Works great for that purpose!</p>

[alexander_n2]

<p>I agree about using good quality materials with a minimum of destruction.</p>

<p>I hate it when I buy an antique camera and find someone has sloppily glued wool yarn all over the place, especially when they've used super glue.</p>

[patrick j dempsey]

<p>If you don't trust glue inside of a camera... why would you trust self-adhesive? It's just glue applied by a robot. Messyness is the least of your considerations.... fumes should be higher on the list of concerns. Never ever ever ever use krazy glue, modelling glue or other glues with strong solvent bases in your cameras... it's a good way to permanently discolor paints, melt plastics and etch the glass of lenses/viewfinders etc. Another option is don't use any lightseals. Some especially older cameras were designed with enough overlap in the grooves that leaks are not a problem. </p>

[peter_de_waal]

<p >Without glue, almost all of the Japanese cameras made since the 1960's would fall apart. So there is nothing wrong with glue as a method of attaching seals, in fact as I pointed out in my instructions http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00SVtt when I worked as a cine camera tech it was the ONLY way they were done in the movies (apart from labyrinth seals) because the danger of tiny bits of foam breaking off and ruining a shot is too high. In the movies, set-up costs are astronomical and some situations simply can't be re-shot. It HAS to be right first time. Sure, things go awry in productions and have to be re-shot, but you sure as hell don't want to be the guy that caused it!</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Alexander, I also despair at sloppy camera repair work, of all kinds. You would have to be insane to try fixing light seals into a camera with super-glue! I painstakingly wrote and illustrated those instructions to give you a fighting chance at doing a good job. You will note I also recommended you carry out your first attempts on a junk camera. If it all goes wrong you can just remove the yarn with more acetone, clean out the seal tracks again, and have another go. I think the average person would have to do the yarn/glue method about three times before they become proficient.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I agree with Patrick that solvent fumes can be a problem. I also stressed repeatedly the necessity of USING ACETONE (or other solvents) SPARINGLY. You should do this outdoors if possible, if not you need good ventilation. I did the light seals on eleven 1960's Japanese leaf-shutter RF's cameras using the yarn/glue method in one day about a month ago. I chose a nice spring morning, where I could sit outdoors in a gentle breeze.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >If people lack the patience to learn a new repair technique, well fine with me, just carry on trying to manoeuvre tiny sticky bits of foam into narrow slots. But don't knock the technique, just because you lack the skill to accomplish it.</p>