Help with Rolleiflex Automat Soft Test Pictures

[donnie_strickland]

<p>It's not the rear element I am referring to, it's the double-concave element second from left. That's the one which was loose in my Tessar.</p>

<p>And yes, that spanner would do to remove or tighten the retaining ring.</p>

[t_nu_tamm]

 

<p>If you can to diagnose the problem with a spanner wrench, then you can solve it with a spanner wrench. But I would wait with that at least until someone confirms how to access the second (middle) lens: whether you need to start with removing the first lens only, or the first two lenses need to be removed together as a block? In second case you would need a "rubber screwdriver" to grip the larger black ring around the lens.</p>

 

 

[hinman]

<p>@Tonu, I research on the images on the web and found that the front and middle piece in the diagram are likely grouped in a single piece</p>

<p>And I see the detailed front piece in this listing for <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270674578421">Zeiss Ikoflex IIa</a> listing which has a good picture of Zeiss Opton Tessar T 75mm f/3.5 where the middle two-concave lens is attached to the back of the front element. I am not sure if a <a href="http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-LR5/Lens-Ring-Tool-23mm-And-27mm-5-Gum-Rubber.aspx">rubber lens ring tool</a> can work to dismount and mount the middle piece.</p>

<p>Pictures for the front piece: <a href="http://www.photocamera.com/pictures/1119/Picture%20022.jpg">picture 1</a> and <a href="http://www.photocamera.com/pictures/1119/Picture%20021.jpg">picture 2</a> and <a href="http://www.photocamera.com/pictures/1119/Picture%20019.jpg">picture3</a></p>

<p>@Donnie, can you confirm if middle piece is in <a href="http://www.photocamera.com/pictures/1119/Picture%20022.jpg">picture 1<br /></a><br>

and any suggestion how to make it secure, does <a href="http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-LR5/Lens-Ring-Tool-23mm-And-27mm-5-Gum-Rubber.aspx">rubber lens ring tool</a> or something similar will work with the middle piece. Thanks so much for the help.</p>

[donnie_strickland]

<p>The lens I worked on was an uncoated Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar from an Ikonta 520/2, in a Compur shutter. In your Picture 1, the back element had become partially unscrewed and after removing the lens group as you have, all I had to do was screw it back down tightly. I think I just used a rubber jar opener.</p>

<p>Of course it is possible that this still might not be the problem, but you could rule it out anyway.</p>

[hinman]

<p>Thank you Donnie. And thanks to Matt for the focusing test suggestion with CD box and scotch tape -- it really works as suggested.</p>

<p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5010/5247412479_215396ff03_z.jpg" alt="" width="425" height="640" /></p>

<ul>

<li>CD plastic case cut to fill the film plane</li>

<li>Scotch tape on the inner side of the CD cover that is closer to the taking lens</li>

<li>Bulb mode with a shutter cable that locks shutter</li>

<li>tripod won't work as the back cover and tripod mount is removed. I do the test on a flat surface</li>

<li>a loupe like the magnifier will help the focusing test but I don't have one to be precise</li>

</ul>

<p>What I found is not pleasant as there is about 2 feet distance difference for a close range object in about 3.5 feet. The viewing lens indicates 3.5 feet distance for the sharpest focus on the lamb while the inverted image from taking lens indicate 5.5 feet to be the sharpest.</p>

<p>I learned that there is likely a focus adjustment screw for the viewing lens but I need to dismantle the front leatherette. I have ordered the lens spanner and I hope the tool helps a bit. If any of you know about the focus adjustment screw on the Rolleiflex for the viewing lens, that will help me dig deeper.</p>

[t_nu_tamm]

<p>Please don't do any adjustments until you have located and fixed the main issue, unless you really want it to stay like it is. I bet that the taking lens as it is has a lot of field curvature too, meaning that the focusing plane is not flat as it should, and the "error" is not constant over the image. </p>

[t_nu_tamm]

 

<p>And also, whatever has happened to the taking lens must have slightly changed it's focal length too, making the "error" to vary at different focusing distances.<br>

Again, your only hope is to find and correct that exact part where previous owner messed up and to hope nobody hasn't touched the other parts yet.</p>

 

 

[matthew_stott]

<p>Hi Hin,</p>

<p>I you are feeling brave- here is the general focus adjust for this camera. The taking lens screws into the lens plate all the way. You don't adjust this lens. You get the cd cover to focus on something (infinity distance works best)- then you adjust the focus knob- not the lens. You take the center cover off the knob, then you loosen the center cone screw and the focus knob will spin freely. So, when the ground glass is focused on infinity, you set the focus knob to infinity and tighten it up. </p>

<p>Next, you need to adjust the top, viewing lens and ground glass. The top lens is adjustable. So when you have the film plane and taking lens on infinity, you focus the ground glass on top to infinity by adjusting the top lens.</p>

<p>This is all assuming the lens board is perfectly aligned. If the board needs to be re-set, you have a whole 'nother world of work in front of you.</p>

<p>So- in the bottom lens, everything should be very tight. From your images it does not so much look like a focus issue but more of a lens alignment issue.</p>

<p>Good luck with the camera.</p>

<p>Matt (who is not going to take any Rolleis apart ever again!)</p>

<p>I'm blind!:</p>

<p><img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/mstott/rolleiflex%20automat%20K4A/IMG_2388.jpg" alt="" /></p>

[hinman]

<p>@Tony, I won't be making any focus adjustment until I try out the safer route in securing the taking lens in place and ensure no reversed middle element in the taking lens.</p>

<p>@Matt, I don't know how to thank you for your inspiration. I wish I have the know-how like you and many others in this forum do. I use the CD card and scotch tape advice and try to test focus on my Yashica Mat-124g and focus is almost dead-on. </p>

<p>Though all the hassles, this is a great learning experience. I promise NOT to kill my Holga copy of Rolleiflex. When it come to the point of not knowning what to do next, I will give in and ask my local repair for the fix. </p>

[t_nu_tamm]

<p>Nice to hear it, Hin! <br>

One more suggestion: Your self-made focusing screen seems to rest on the four posts next to vertical film rails? Thy are there to keep the pressure plate in position, but the image plane should generally coincide with the rails. So I would cut the screen down a little bit?</p>

[igord]

<p>These blurred photos are so beautiful I wouldn't repair anything. Would just buy another "sharp" camera and leave this one as it is.</p>

[leon_liurui]

<p>hi Hin,<br>

Very glad to meet you here,at the same time, it is also very regrettable. because my rolleiflex also have a similar problem.<br>

it is shoot at f3.5,and you can see the problem around the corners .<img src="http://www7.xitek.com/forum/201012/191/19189/19189_1291564291.jpg" alt="" /></p>

[leon_liurui]

<p>it seems like not so serious as yours, but I think they are in the same problem--image plane is not flate.a friend told me that the lens might be replaced! <br>

i have tried to tight the lens and adjusted the forcus right.but it still looks bad,unless i use f11-22.<br>

good luck to your rolleiflex .and keep abreasting of your progress.<br>

LEON(Forgive my broken English</p>

[leon_liurui]

<p>reload pic<br>

<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5003/5270520452_713cd2cd4d_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="1022" /></p>

[roy_faverty]

<p>The front element of the taking lens is protruding too far, when set properly it will be clearly recessed below the chrome bayonet. Some one has re-assembed this lens without the proper tools or knowledge. If all the parts are present it is a rather straight foreward job to re-assemble the lens correctly. Depending where you are located there are a number of ex-Rollei techs and other professional camera repair persons that can fix this camera to its original conditions. These are extremely sharp cameras when in good repair. Key Camera in Longmont Colorado repairs all my camera and he is ex-Rollei USA tech and he has lots of new parts for all the Rolleiflex cameras.</p>