Kodak Junior Six-20 Series II exposure question

[dave_gesell]

<p>I've recently been given this camera, and it's really in astonishing, near perfect condition. I've ordered a couple of 620 spools to respool 120 film onto, and I'm waiting for those to arrive. In the meantime, I'm trying to find out what the shutter speed is when the Kodo No.0 shutter is set to "I" (Instantaneous). I found a mention on another site that the aperture disc (numbered 1 through 4), correspond to f11 to f32, so once I find out the shutter speed, I can select an appropriate film.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

[walter_degroot]

<p>the shutter speed is likely 1/50 or 1/60 or could be slower if the shutter is old and sticky.<br>

Back then HIGH speed was ISO 100. Normal film was iso 32 or 64.<br>

I hate to see those with Holgas being sold iso 400 film.<br>

Pick a iso 100 film. First see if a full 120 roll will fit in the supply side.<br>

If it does and you develop at home, you are set.<br>

If you "send out": the 620 spools you will lose them.</p>

<p>Next after you get the iso 100 film , look at the Massive development chart<br>

and find a combination that will allow you to expose at a slower speed.<br>

say ISO 50. Go out on a sunny day. and take youn photos.<br>

One of the few slower B&W films is Ilford Pan-F<br>

and some of the othetr eastern european slow adoc efke and maco or rollei films,.<br>

do not even bother to look for the ideal film<br>

but a few rolls of iso 100 120 film and enjoy the results.</p>

 

[dave_gesell]

<p>Thanks Walter. Given the film speeds in the late '30's, I'd guessed that the shutter speed would be in the 1/30 to 1/60 range. The shutter seems to be consistent at least, so that will help in figuring out the appropriate aperture number. On hand I have Fuji Acros 100 and Adox CHS 50. In the long run, my guess is that the Adox might be a better match, but for the initial testing I'll use the Fuji, if only because I have more of it, and it's quite a bit cheaper than the Adox.</p>

[walter_degroot]

<p>I have several rolls of 35mm legacy pro 100</p>

<p>which is really Fuji iso 100<br>

with rodinal I can expose at iso 50<br>

EVEN if you use iso 100 film and usea smaller lens opening<br>

you would be very close<br>

there MAY be a setting for brach/sand / snow<br>

photos that would give 1 stop less exposure<br>

then the exposure would be only 1 stop over.<br>

remember 40 years ago Plus x now 125 was rated at 64 and tri-x 400 was rated<br>

at 200. Youn would be " close enough for practical results"</p>

<p>I have a folding brownie no.2 and I face the same situation<br>

mayve even a little worse. I need a SLOW developer./<br>

Maybe d-23 or caffinol.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>The "I" speed is usually between 1/25 to 1/50 sec. More often, the 1/25 to 1/30 sec range. Films were seriously slow when most of these were made. Later cameras may have faster "instant" time. You probably want to get the slowest film you can find for it.</p>

<p>Some data that are probably comparable are in my post on a Kodak Jiffy Six-20 http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00XY1P</p>

[chuck_foreman1]

<p>Something I did to preserve my 620 rollers was to roll the color film back on 120 rollers before I sent it in!<br>

Like the others intimate doing your own B&W work is a good cheap way to increase your bang for the buck! You figure a Tank<br>

and some chemicals might be 60 dollars to get started and thereafter pennies per roll! You do have a few apertures so at least you've got room.. also choosing your subject accordingly also helps!</p>

 

[dave_gesell]

<p>Thanks for all the information.<br>

Chuck, I'm already set up to process B&W at home, and that's all I'm likely to shoot with the Junior Six-20, but if I do run some colour thru it, I'll remember your trick of (re) re-spooling the film back to a 120 spool! I just have to remember to hang onto them!</p>