cory_wright Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 <p>Hi there,<br> I recently purchased an RZ 67 and a couple of different types of film (Kodak 160 iso, and Fuji Velvia 100 iso) I shot a few rolls of both and took them in to be developed. I went to pick them up and the developer told me that there was nothing on the Fuji Velvia? I looked at the film and it is clear (blank) apart from some very narrow bands of properly exposed film (vertical bands). What could have caused this. I had the camera out in some very bright places, and I was loading and unloading film outside. Does this sound like light leak? Or a loading fault. Or even more sinister a developing fault? The Fuji film was E 6.</p> <p>I really dont want to give up shooting film but at this point I'm feeling pretty unmotivated!</p> <p>oh and also... I shoot a Nikon D300 which I have been using for polariods for the RZ67 but I also have a light meter (very old) which would you recommend?</p> <p>cheers<br> Cory Wright</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_batters Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 <p>You shot a few rolls of both, and is it only one (1) roll of Velvia that came out blank?<br /> If you used the same film back for all shots, and your other roll(s) of Velvia came out OK, and your rolls of Kodak came out OK, then maybe it's a loading error/glitch. (That's a skeptical maybe)</p> <p>Forgetting to set the proper ASA speed on the film back only comes into play if you are using an AE metered prism or finder. <br /> So that is ruled out, (you didn't mention if you have either of those).<br /> If you have only one (1) film back, is it 120 or 220? <br /> (Trying to narrow down light leak possibility, as 220 film doesn't have the paper backing is why I ask).</p> <p>Is the film back RZ Pro, or RZ ProII? <br /> Pro backs have foam light seals, ProII backs have a light-trap seal system. <br /> (Because of this, always remember, Pro inserts will only work in a Pro magazine/housing, and ProII inserts will only work in a ProII magazine/housing).</p> <p>Have you used this processing lab for 120/220 developing in the past, with good results? <br /> Processing 35mm is more of an automated process for some labs, than it is for handling rolls of medium format film.</p> <p>I know I've thrown more questions at you, and answered none of yours, but am trying to get to the root of possible circumstances that led to your post. Don't give-up on the RZ, and don't give-up on film.</p> <p>As to metering, if your D300 has an equivalent focal length lens to what's mounted on the RZ, and you set the ISO on the D300 to match the ASA speed of film in the RZ, then yes, you can use the D300 as your meter.<br> Also, check to see if your old hand held meter matches the readings from your D300. If it does, then you won't have to carry two cameras, to shoot one.</p> <p>One last question. Is your camera body a RZ ProII, and the film back from a standard RZ Pro?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francisco_disilvestro Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 <p>Does the film has the frame numbers and fuji marks on the borders?</p> <p>The narrow exposed bands you mention, are part of an image or just clear?</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markdeneen Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 <p>It's only one roll of film. I'd get another roll of simple B&W and load it carefully indoors and then go in the back yard and take 12 pictures, and then go inside and properly unload and take it in for developing. Short story - try again! For all you know the lab goofed up, right? Make another try for $3.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicaglow Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 <p>Yes, if there are no frame numbers or writing, then they screwed up the development.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuart_richardson Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 <p>Well, not necessarily. The film could have been completely fogged somewhere along the line...that could have been done unintentionally by Cory somehow. Basically, there are many different possibilities. As Mark suggested, the best course of action is to shoot some more tests and see if it happens again. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cory_wright Posted November 8, 2010 Author Share Posted November 8, 2010 <p>I do have some more rolls of both Kodak and the Fuji. It's just really disappointing to find out that all those photos I thought I got, aren't there. I'm just too comfortable with digital I guess. <br> Marc B. : To answer your questions; <br> All of the Velvia I shot came out blank. <br> I have 2 film backs (both 120) and both say "Mamiya RZ67 Professional" where as the camera body says "Mamiya RZ67"... difference?<br> I havent tried the processing lab before. This is the first time.<br> And no the meter and D300 dont match up. The meter is less sensitive which leads me to believe that it's getting old.<br> And finally when I say that that there was a small strip of properly exposed film I mean it was a very narrow strip down the edge of one of the exposures that looked fine. The rest of the film was clear (blank).</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blanston Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 <p>I am leaning toward a "lab's fault" conclusion, but keep us posted.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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