george_paulides Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 <p>I have a Nikon D200 and Nikon 12-24mm/16-85mm VR. I plan to purchase a square filter sytem for neutral density filter use. I currently use a B+W 77mm ND110 filter but I find is tedious in that I have to remove filter to compose, focus and meter the shot.<br> I think it would be much easier with a square filter system. The options as far as I known are Lee, Cokin and Hi-Tech. I do not want to spend a fortune can anyone recommend a reasonable system? Also can you mix and match the actual square filters of one brand versus another if you have a particular brand of filter holder? Thanks.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShunCheung Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 <p>If you only use neutral-desinty (ND) filters instead of graduated neutral-density filters, I would suggest that you stick with the B+W. I find that it is relatively easy to scratch those rectangular filters since you need to slide them into the holder. I have a few Singh-Ray filters and there are a lot of micro scratches on them.</p> <p>If you need to use GND filters, that is a different story since you want the flexability to adjust the location of the transition area.</p> <p>Why do you need ND filters? Do you shoot a lot at very slow shutter speeds?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_ditzel1 Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 <p>The resin filter will scratch easily as Shun has said. Better to get the glass filters instead of the resin, as they are better optically. The downside is that they are pretty pricey. I've seen some glass grad ND's on ebay from a Chinese supplier, but I have no experience with them</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howard_m Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 <p>dont forget that the #110 filter is incredibly dark and you're not going to get something like that in resin.</p> <p>So, are you planning on going w/ a lighter ND? If so, does that negate the 'dont want to remove it' argument?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShunCheung Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 <p>Are those rectangular glass filters we are talking about have no frames? I would hate to handle "bare" glass filters. I think it is very easy to damage/shatter them.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_paulides Posted October 29, 2010 Author Share Posted October 29, 2010 <p>Yes, I like to do long exposures before sunset. I will primarily be using ND filters. I guess find the ND110 hard to work with as I mentioned from a composing, focus and metering perspective since it is so dark. May be not so much of problem with other grades of ND filters.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShunCheung Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 <p>George, just my opinion: if you only need ND instead of grad ND, you are much better off sticking with a round, screw on ND filter for reasons I mentioned above. I have one of those for the occasional slow-shutter-speed waterfall or river type shots. Just unscrew it to compose and screw it back on to capture. You are using a tripod, right? Rectangular filters without a frame have a lot of disadvantages.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bms Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 <p>I have the B+W and a Cokin Z kit with a few filters. Lee makes a 4x4" "Big Stopper", which I think is glass. Cokin makes a 6.6 stop and an "extreme use" 13 stop ND Resin.</p> <p>However the Cokin Z needs an adapter ring and is only marginally less tedious than the screw on IMO if you do selective shots.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip_tam Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 <p>George: One option you might want to consider is a variable ND filter. You can screw it on, and they usually vary between around 2 to 8 stops of light IIRC. This way, you can turn it until it's bright (2 stops), compose, then if you want a long exposure, just spin it around to darken it.</p> <p>I don't have such a filter, but I have the #110 B+W and I know the frustration you speak of. LightCraft makes a "Fader ND" that's relatively inexpensive. I don't know if it's optically better or worse than the B+W though.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnfarrar Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 <p>George: of the square systems I've used, Lee is both flexible and the filters have a very low colour cast. With care, the resin doesn't get scratched - I've used mine heavily for 3 years with no need to replace any. However a 10-stop ND is another issue: I have a sqaure Hitech that has a bluish colour cast that is very hard to correct, but get 9 stops in square by a Lee 3 stop plus a Hitech 6 stop which is pretty cast-free (the purists will say, don't combine filters, but this works for me). However my preferred route for 10 stops is a screw-in B+W whihc has a correctable red cast. A pain to use, yes, but better colour and no danger of light leaks. However as I often want to combne a ND with a grad, square becomes easier. So I switch between the two.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_crown2 Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 <p>Hi George</p> <p>I use Hi-Tech 'square' filters - combination ND with 81B warming in a Cokin holder (P size), at various strengths. All I can say is that I've found them to be the most 'bang for the buck' especially when you consider the cost of the Lee system - a system that I would have if I had the dosh. The Cokin NDs I have used have an obvious colour cast. I do like and use their Polariser though. However, an article in the UK Amateur Photographer magazine a while back basically concluded that even the higher cost filters imparted a colour cast on images.</p> <p>I've been very happy with the the Hi-Tech brand - an extremely good compromise if cost is an issue, and these filters have helped me create some really lovely images. BTW, I use them with film.</p> <p>regards,</p> <p>Mark</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbcooper Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 <blockquote> <p>I currently use a B+W 77mm ND110 filter but I find is tedious in that I have to remove filter to compose, focus and meter the shot.</p> </blockquote> <p>I know <em>exactly</em> what you mean. I shoot a D200 w/12-24 f/4 and a D700 w/17-35/2.8D. I still use the ND110, but have a Lee Big Stopper on order (there's a wait for back-order, and I'm finally very near the front of that queue). Fortunately, the Lee Foundation Kits are readily available again if you haven't got a holder. I'm very happy with the Lee system and would recommend getting their holder for use with ND grads as well.</p> <p>The Big Stopper is glass, so micro-scratching shouldn't be an issue, and it's gasketed against light leaks. I might need a compendium shade as well...have to try the filter first and see. I don't mind bringing the gear I need to get the shot I'm after, and I don't mind stacking filters (isn't that why there are multiple slots in the holders?). I don't see anything wrong with using whatever gets the job done. IMO, the end result justifies the means. YMMV.</p> <p>Although I mostly like the warm cast of the ND110, I'd rather add that myself in post. It's a specialized filter for imaging certain industrial processes, and B+W says so in their catalog. OTOH, the Big Stopper is designed for regular photography. There's a chance that it'll have a warm cast as well, so I might end up trying one of the new Tiffen NDs with the IR 'hot mirror' feature (their idea being that long exposures allow IR to get through the bandpass/IR filtering sensor cover and contaminate the image, giving it a color cast). I'm hoping the Big Stopper will work out as being more convenient, though.</p> <p>Even more convenient would be a variable ND, but unfortunately they have very thick rings and will vignette with WA/UWA lenses starting around 28mm or so with FX, so I've passed on that idea. HTH.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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