Konica T3 Meter issue

[josh_gilreath]

<p>Hello everyone!<br>

OK, I know that the Konica T3 uses mercury batteries which are no longer available. I have, however, read that you can use the same size (675) zinc air batteries which put out a voltage of 1.4 instead of the mercury's 1.35. This is the closest voltage battery still made readily available. Since these batteries provide more voltage I've heard that you must under rate the film speed by approx 2/3 a stop to compensate. Therefore you'd rate 100 ISO at 64. However, when I put these batteries in my camera I'm finding out that 100 ISO film must be rated around 1600 ISO in order to even get close to accurate exposures. Why is my meter so much weaker? Does anyone have any other suggestions or solutions? The camera is all mechanical so batteries aren't required, it would just be nice to not have to carry around an external meter.<br>

Thanks,<br>

Josh</p>

[capitalq]

<p>Josh: I use standard 1.5v button cells in my T3 with a rubber spacer and it seems to be doing better than expected -- no adjustment is needed and it is within 1/2 a stop of my Canon A1 (which is designed to use the 1.5v batteries). If you're having to set the meter at 1600 to reliably meter 100 ISO, I suspect something serious is amiss....</p>

<p> </p>

[josh_gilreath]

<p>Capital Q, <br>

Thanks for such a quick response! Could you describe the rubber spacer a little bit more? Is it something you made? I do agree that it seems very off that the meter is that far out of whack. If it is way off, it's no big loss I was able to pick up the 24mm f2.8 hexanon, 50mm 1.7 hexanon and a 35-70f4 hexanon with the T3 body and an FT-1 body for less than $45. <br>

The T3 works but the meter is crazy. The FT-1 however I cant seem to make work at all, the battery compartment was corroded and I cleaned it, but still no luck. </p>

[User_502260]

<p>If you need a new battery holder for the FT-1 you should be able to get one from Greg Weber. You can reach him at (402) 721-3873 or at <a href="mailto:gweber@webercamera.com">gweber@webercamera.com</a>. I use 675 zinc-air hearing aid batteries in the Autorelfex A and T series cameras. When they are under load the voltage seems to drop to just about exactly 1.35 volts. If you are getting a much different reading then somethng else is going on. I wouldn't recommend using 1.5 volt alkaline or silver oxide batteries. These lose voltage over time and when they are new will give you underexposed film. Some people use them anyway but recalibrate each time they shoot. To do this you would set a camera with a good meter at 1/125 and check the f/stop corresponding to it. You would then set the Konica to 1/125, point it at the same subject and then turn the ASA dial until the same f/stop shows. </p>

[capitalq]

<p>Jeff - You're right about the manual exposure calibration -- only reliable way to make sure the 1.5v batteries are working well. But at $0.20 per cell, I have no problem popping a new one every time I shoot -- they're certainly more available and cheaper than hearing aid batteries.</p>

<p>Josh - Sounds like you got a fantastic deal on the bodies and the lenses. I'd love to have that 24mm and I've never tried a Hexanon zoom. Please post images when you get the chance. As for the spacer, Home Depot or a decent hardware store will have several options. Take your camera and button cell with you to make sure you get a decent fit. And in a pinch, a bit of tinfoil squeezed into the battery compartment also works just fine. I'm serious. And if all else fails, have a decent hand meter handy or use Sunny 16. </p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>I've never had an issue with the hearing aid batteries fitting in a T3 correctly, but I have, especially recently, had some that were no good right out of the box, so the first thing I'd do is try a couple more, or check the voltage of the ones you have. This is compounded because the T3 tends to turn itself on from vibration, etc. very easily, so it can gobble up batteries pretty quickly. If you have to put the ISO higher, it means either your battery voltage is too low or it's not reaching the meter, perhaps because of corroded wires or other internal problems.</p>

<p>I never had good luck with alkalines or silver oxides in my T3's, because they require so much compensation when fresh. Alkalines do drop off some as they age, and can stabilize pretty well at around 1.35 volts for a while, but silver oxides don't, and their voltage is even higher than alkalines, so they will probably put you too far out of range to be really useful.<br>

Remember that the T3 does have a built in meter calibration in its battery test function - take the lens off, set to 1/125, and ASA100, push the on-off switch all the way left, and the meter should hit the red mark. Adjust ASA until it does, and you are calibrated for the day.</p>

<p>On the FT-1: I have, or had, one of these (somewhere I guess I still do), and along with having a busted aperture control, the battery holder was hard to get on correctly. Eventually one of the battery contacts broke off, and of course that was the end of it. Make sure the battery holder contacts are actually contacting the camera. </p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>The FT-1 battery holder was somewhat fragile. When my family's camera shop sold Konicas, we had to order several replacment battery holders for the FT-1. IIRC, the FS-1 battery holders were more robust.</p>

[gabor_szabo3]

<p>I'm on my third T3 body this year. In the never-ending search for the "perfect" one, I've collected a bunch of Hexanons... would love that 24mm one, though ! <br>

Looks like this latest T3 of mine developed a loose battery terminal. I'll try to fix it before throwing it on the auction site in a day or so. I never really liked using the meter on these, or most other early 70s or 60s mechanical SLRs. I prefer plain prisms, meterless bodies, Sunny F-16, or hand-held. I get by just fine with zinc-airs, and make out OK, too, with cheap 357 alkalines and the like.<br>

Now, the FT-1 is a completely different ball of wax. I just spent this past weekend getting acquainted with an all black model. Despite the AAA alkaline-only Achiles heel, it's a pleasant camera to hold, look thrugh, and shoot with, especially when packing the pancake 40/1.8. Is it a classic, though ? </p>

[capitalq]

<p>Matthew - I did not know about that nifty meter calibration trick. I tried it at home and lo and behold it hit the mark exactly as you said. So am I to understand that so long as it hits the red mark at 1/125 @100ASA the meter is spot on? </p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>Capital Q: fortunately for us, it seems Konica did not build in a separate battery voltage check, and just calculated what meter reading would correspond to the correct voltage. What this means is that if the needle hits the red mark the meter is spot on, assuming it's in good order otherwise. I've always found it to be reliable.</p>

[User_502260]

<p>The FT-1 is not AAA-only. There is an AA battery holder for it. This makes the camera slightly heavier but easier to grip. If your FT-1 battery holder is broken, Greg Weber can repair it. I found what looks like a NOS AA FT-1 battery holder at a camera show a few months ago for a good price. The FT-1 allows you to lock the meter reading. This is very useful in backlit situations and it missed on the FS-1 and FC-1. </p>