Beginner to live music

[photographyld]

<p>I am a newer photographer and I would really like to build a concert portfolio. I'm looking into some better lenses for this situation (good Aperture/SS in low light, zoom). Can anyone recommend a lens(es) that would work well in these conditions that will work good if you're NOT in the front row (more like a small venue/pub bar scene)</p>

[leslie_cheung]

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<p>Can anyone recommend a lens(es) that would work well in these conditions that will work good if you're NOT in the front row (more like a small venue/pub bar scene)</p>

 

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<p>So, are you further back or are you on/in the stage srea? What camera do you have? Budget?</p>

[William Michael]

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<p>build a <strong>concert portfolio.</strong> I'm looking into some better lenses for this situation (good Aperture/SS in <strong>low light, zoom</strong>). Can anyone recommend a lens(es) that would work well in these conditions that will work good if you're NOT in the front row (more like <strong>a small venue/pub bar scene</strong>)</p>

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<p>I use a 24/1.4 and a 50/1.4 the most in bars and jazz clubs – If I were a long way back I would use 50/1.4 and maybe 85/1.8 or even 135/2 – but I find the ability to move is very important hence the shorter Primes are my preference.<br>

If it is a crowded or robust venue then the 35/2 is very useful, because it is small.<br>

I use a dual format kit, being Canon APS-C and 135 format – aka: “Full Frame”<br>

I don’t usually use zooms in these situations, but as you stipulate zooms, the fastest zooms are F/2.8 and I would recommend that speed, even if you intend to use flash.<br>

The format of your camera is important, as you will not be able to get really wide and really fast with an APS-C camera – this fact might or might not be relevant to you, but many beginners miss this point. <br>

Have a read of this: <a href="http://www.photo.net/learn/club-photography/photographing-bands-musicians/">http://www.photo.net/learn/club-photography/photographing-bands-musicians/</a></p>

<p>As mentioned more specific details would be useful.</p>

<p>WW</p>

[jaydesi]

<p>Zooms definitely make it a little tougher, but f/2.8 is the way to go (since you won't find them any faster). For the price, you can probably pick up a few faster, mid-grade prime lenses as William mentions above.</p>

[Spearhead]

 

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<p>if you're NOT in the front row (more like a small venue/pub bar scene)</p>

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<p>This sounds contradictory. I shoot in a lot of small venues and that means I'm always able to be in front. I usually work off to the sides to avoid getting in people's way, or down low if it's the right kind of place for that. You should be able to get really close in any small venue. I even shoot on-stage in some if the show is raucous enough.</p>

<p>I use either a 24-70/2.8 or a set of three primes, 20/35/50 for almost every show. I take the primes if I know that flash isn't allowed, the 24-70 if I know it is allowed. It's also important to have lenses that are reasonably water resistant (Canon L series for example) if you are shooting at "active" shows, e.g., a pit, beer flying, etc. Hoods and filters also help, at least in the environments I shoot in.</p>

 

 

[photographyld]

<p>Thanks for the responses! They were really helpful.<br>

@Leslie Cheung<br />I have a Nikon D3000 and budget wise, I'm kind of looking not really having a budget set. But I know I can't afford the ones that are reaching the thousand mark, or at least right now I can't. <br>

@Jeff Spirer<br />I've been to some shows for bands at the smaller venues (bars, pubs etc) and the crowds haven't been the kindest for a photographer to me in and I'm not very big and it's hard to stand the crowds with them being that way, so that's why I would rather be a little bit in the back than up in front. </p>

[radiotyson]

<p>If you are shooting with a d3000, you absolutely can't go wrong with the Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (around $100 bucks) and the Nikkor 35mm DX f1.8 (about $100 bucks). Both of these lenses are high quality fast aperture with good focus speeds... although now that I think about I'm not sure if the 50 is internal focus or screw driven, which would mean it won't autofocus on the d3000. Either way, pick up the 35mm its a great piece of low-cost glass.</p>

[photographyld]

<p>@Tyson<br />I've looked into the Nikkor 35mm & 50mm and they seem pretty good (glad to hear you recommend some of them)... can you suggest a filter for those kinds of lenses?</p>

[Spearhead]

<p>Unless you're shooting in a situation where you expect to get beer, spit or sweat on your lens, or fingers stuck into it, there's no reason to need a filter.</p>

<p>Because I often shoot at shows with a mosh pit, I use a filter, but I'm always up-front and have had me and the camera sprayed with a variety of substances. If you're not expecting that, just use a hood.</p>