How many sheets to expose per shot.

[paul freeman]

I've been learning 5x4 photography for the last year and its been

hard work. I'm focussing on transparency film so the exposure is

critical. I'm also focussing on landscape/architecture rather than

studio type stuff so there is a lot of environmental variation to

consider.

 

Typically I take two sheets of each shot using the same

shutter/aperture combination. When processing, I process one sheet to

determine whether I need to push/pull the second shot.

The only problem with this approach is that it doesn't provide much

room for error, and I commit many! I'm wondering if I should be

doubling the number of film carriers I carry around.

 

The other day I saw a pro turn up and take a photograph. He appeared

to take about 12 sheets on a single shot, making few if any

variations of shutter/aperture. This made me wonder if I haven't been

burning enough sheets to guarantee success.

 

Supposing one has taken the trouble to line up a great shot how many

sheets do people expose to guarantee success? What do the pro's do.

[william_marderness1]

I take two sheets of each shot in case one has dust spots. I work in 8x10 and 7x17, and larger sheets have more problems with dust than 4x5. Instead of taking two shots to determine contrast, I use a spot meter and the zone system. Only for difficult shots, do I take two in order to adjust the contrast. Sounds to me like your pro was wasting film.

[robert_a._zeichner1]

Well, I can't tell you how many exposures to make, but I will say that it is very important to have your shutters tested and to make little charts that you can tape to your lensboards to indicate the actual shutter speeds for each of your shutters. This made all the difference in the world for me and now I can usually make one exposure in normal sunlit scenes and maybe a couple in more demanding lighting. I am also a proponent of the sunny 16 rule when working in bright sun with average subjects. My rate of failure has diminished considerably in recent outings.

[edsel_adams]

Always in twos!A speck of dust will ruin the day!

[rw_hawkins]

<p>Paul, first lesson is don't be too concerned about a supposed "pro", I have seen many

do some wacky things!</p>

<p>Here's my procedure FWIW. If I have time to carefully meter a scene, and the scene

does

not

have any "extreme" exposure requirements, I generally take two identical exposures as

you

are doing. If I am unsure about the exposure because of extreme highlights or shadows I

will expose 3 shots, one normal, one +1/2 stop, one -1/2 stop. For situations where I

know the range of light is greater than the film can hold I will make exposures that

capture highlight detail and then shadow detail, and later figure out how to combine the

two. That may have been what this photographer was doing.</p>

<p>While gaining confidence in your exposure calculation, you might try exposing these

extra shots. As you get use to calculating exposure you should notice a pattern in which

exposure you prefer and then you can adjust your film speed accordingly.</P>

[ellis_vener_photography]

I generally shoot a minimum of six sheets per set up, if the light

isn't changing!

The first one gets processed normally. If I feel the processing

needs to be pushed or pulled I talk to the E-6 guy or the lab

manager about how much to push (usually) or pulled (very

rarely) the developing. If that second sheet is right than I have

three more sheets processed. That makes a total of two for the

client and two for me.<P>

I usually either hold on to or toss the sixth sheet. So why do I

shoot six? In case I feel that I need to see a third test before

processing the rest.<P>Don't forget, As president Grover

Cleveland once said; "(Professional) Photographers are the kind

of men who wear a belt and suspenders to keep their pants up."

(referring to press photographers continually clamoring for "just

one more.")

[ethan]

Ummm... if you're really that concerned why not shoot some black and white polaroids?

Of course it won't help much with the dust factor but it will tell you if your exposure is on. And if you use type 55 you can examine the negative with a loupe to make sure your subject is sharp on the film. I worked with an architectural photographer who used this method and then shot two sheets of transparency so he could push or pull as needed. I never saw him lose a shot.

 

Hope this helps!

[dave_karp]

Paul,

 

Here is a guess as to what the pro photographer was doing. For whatever reason, he may need multiple copies of each transparency. Instead of duplicating a transparency, he now has 12 "duplicates" that he can use for his portfolio, stock sales, client copies, or whatever other need he might have. In camera "duplicates" are all first generation, and are less expensive than duplicates made by the lab.

 

When shooting an important subject, I shoot 3 sheets of the same subject. This helps to ensure that I don't have to go back to get the photograph right. That gives me one more round in case my first two attempts at processing are sub par. If it is a particularly difficult subject, I will shoot 4 sheets. When I shoot black and white, I always expose two sheets at the same f/stop and shutter speed. If I have another possible interpretation, I expose two more sheets.

 

If I think about it too much and get myself confused, or If I don't have time to think, I might bracket. Normally I do not.

[david_rose3]

It is possible that the pro shot color trans film, bracketed, and doubled his exposures to have sheets to give to the client as a proof, or to a stock agency, or for display. He may also have added color or B&W negs for printing. This could easily add up to 12 exposures. For my own work, I like two exposures for color/B&W negs, one on the metered exposure, one with more exposure (overexposed negs print, underexposed don't). For color transparencies, I shoot 3, one on + one higher and one lower. Transparencies are not forgiving for missed exposure, you could make an argument for several stops in each direction. The important thing is to have reasons for the extra exposures, otherwise you are just wasting film. I would consider dust or scratches to be good reasons for extra negs as well- it just depends on your own experiences and how hard it would be to repeat the shot.

[bill_proud]

Paul,

 

I shoot at least two sheets per set-up and usually both horizontal and vertical compositions. Someone else mentioned that in-camera dupes are much cheaper, I pay $30.00 each for dupes if I only get one good image, which hurts. Like the others, the first is processed and evaluated for exposure. Then the rest.

 

Ethan talked about polaroids but in many cases for me, there isn't enough time since I shoot a lot at sunrise/set.

 

I also submit to multiple buyers and when submissions dates overlap, I'll need a second image.

[jason_greenberg_motamedi]

I must admit I usually only shoot ONE sheet per shot. Now these are for my

own pleasure, not profit, so if a shot doesn't come through, no big deal.

However, this almost never happens. Ok, so now and then, albeit rarely, I am

a 1/3 of a stop off, not big deal, even with chromes. Each time I push that

shutter it costs me $5.50 (5x7 EPY + processing), sometimes more, bracketing

just isn't possible.

 

As mentioned, it is worthwhile to have your shutters checked, or buy the

Calumet tester. Other than good metering, this is the best way of ensuring that

one sheet will do...

 

Rarely, when doing studio set-ups or repro work for which I am paid, I will

bracket up and down 1/3 and 2/3, and perhaps if necessary take an additional

shot with a CC filter.

[brooks short]

Like Ellis, I expose 6 sheets if I'm shooting transparency film. I could use 5 sheets but I don't like dealing with half-holders. I'll do exposure brackets as opposed to chemical brackets (pushing/pulling). I usually shoot 2 normal, 1 plus 1/3 stop, one plus 2/3 stops, 1 minus 1/3 stop. The sixth sheet I either shoot + or - 1/3 depending on the tones of the subject. Of course this is when I'm shooting something that's not moving or changing.

 

All the film gets processed normally.

 

Out of those 6 sheets I'll either have 2 sheets that are identical and the best exposure or I'll have 2 sheets that are both good with a 1/3 stop difference in exposure between them.

 

I'll also have extra good exposures for my portfolio or to replace the client's film when they misplace it.

 

It's better to shoot a little extra film and make a little extra profit on that film, than it is to do a re-shoot.

[paul freeman]

Thanks, everybody for the useful feedback. I've tried using Polaroid and find them useful for establishing composition and gross errors in exposure. However there have been lots of times that dust or processing problems have messed up the 2nd tranny... so I think I'll be buying a few more film holders and shooting some more film, particularly as I'm trying to build a portfolio and stock.

[dan_smith]

You are very lucky in that the film & equipment makers have made it easy to decide this. You shoot extras equal to the film speed. Using Ektachrome 64... then shoot 64 exposures. (makes you wonder why it comes ina 50 sheet box, doesn't it?) Fuji 100? Shoot 100 exposures. Then you have the meter manufacturers. If you are not sure of the exposure you look at how fine a gradation the meter will show. If it shows in thirds of a stop you bracket in thirds. If it shows in tenths of a stop, you bracket 10 shots, each one tenth different. I won't even get into shutter speeds & f/stop combinations as then you need to bracket in combinations using square root calculations.

 

If you want to shoot 3 or 5 or more on something you consider tricky then do so. It doesn't matter what anyone else does.

[daniel flather]

As an amateur (like me) I see no need to shoot more than two sheets. Extra shooting can

add up costs fast, especially with e-6 material. I shoot 99% B&W (4x5) and develop

myself. I will shoot two shots because most of my exposures are in the 15 sec to 10

minute range. With B&W costs are low. Do as you want.

[nelson_leonard_photography]

Usually 4 to 6 sheets for transparency film at quarter stop increments and 2 to 4 sheets for negative is plenty. This will give me at the least 2 acceptable exposures. Film is the cheapest part of photography if you have a value on your time and effort. I only get paid when the job is completed, not for redoing it. If the lab is new (to me) or the current lab is having problems, I shoot a few extra and hold it back until I see the results. CYA with insurance and the cost of film is "real cheap" insurance.

[james_lim1]

Film is cheap, time is expensive.

Considering all the logistic, transport and

time commitment, it won;t hurt to shoot

a few sheets more than neccessary if you already

have invested so much time in your line up.

Unless you plan to redo the shoot all over

if it doesn't work out the first time around.