louis_webb Posted October 27, 2002 Share Posted October 27, 2002 I am happy with using my Polaris meter for incident readings (landscapes are my bag).Whilst a 10 degree spot attachment came with the meter,I have not used this,as a 1 degree spot' is what I need.I was resigned to having to fork out for the Pentax meter,yet have seen a Soligor dig. spot advertised for £85(about 110usd).Does anyone have experience with the Soligor or both?I only require it for landscapes.Many thanks in advance for any help.Louis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_chong Posted October 27, 2002 Share Posted October 27, 2002 <a href="http://www.photo.net/search/search?search_type=rest§ions=static_pages§ions=bboard§ions=comments&query_string=Soligor+&x=10&y=7">Did you bother to look here?</a> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_woolnough Posted October 27, 2002 Share Posted October 27, 2002 Hi Louis, Ive used incident metering, for most of my life, but ive met large numbers of photographers over the years, who swear by their Pentax spots, and of course, other brands. I dont think you will go far wrong if you fork out the £££s for a good quality model from a top manufacturer. The question is will a cheaper brand be suitable for your requirements. You usually get what you pay for, but providing it gives CONSISTANT readings, you will get consistant results, providing you use it accurately and have the knowledge to interprete the readings. This also applies with your current incident metering. If you are thinking of getting a new spot meter, because you are not getting consistant results at this moment, with the incident method, it may just be that you need to stick at it, a little bit longer, you will get there in the end. Although a lot of people have trouble with incident metering in landscape situations, when first starting with them {myself included}, it soon becomes second nature. Many users, like myself had difficulty in the beginning, in situations where the light may be different in the area where they are standing, compared to where the camera is pointed, and although this is a problem at first, most experienced users of incident meters that i know, find it becomes more of a help, than a hinderence, if they stick with it. I think a lot of new users to incident metering, give up on it, before giving it a real try, and i can understand that entirely, as todays built in camera meters, and modern hand held meters have far more options available, than when i started out. I apologise if you are experienced with your current meter, and need a spot meter for a specific reason. Sorry for going off on a tangent, as you get older, your mind can sometimes wander. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_patti1 Posted October 27, 2002 Share Posted October 27, 2002 I have one which I've used and abused for years. It works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott walton Posted October 28, 2002 Share Posted October 28, 2002 I had the old 778 (I think that was the designation) 1 degree spot with flash mode and I too used it hard and had great success with it! I have the Pentax digispot for my landscape work now because with most of my "pretty pics" I don't need strobe work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louis_webb Posted October 28, 2002 Author Share Posted October 28, 2002 Well,I've read the threads,taken on board advice regarding practicing further with incident readings and other's comments and decided to take the plunge and ordered the Soligor(from Robert White here in Blighty-extremely helpful chap ran me through the basics of the 'meter over the 'phone).It will come with a case and strap/cord but unfortunately,no manual.Does anybody know if it would be helpful if I tried to obtain a manual,or is it's use pretty straightforward?Many thanks for your replies.Louis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_patti1 Posted October 28, 2002 Share Posted October 28, 2002 Getting a reading is easy: There are a series of scales on the collars around the barrel of the meter. Set the proper ASA for your film on the innermost scale. Look through the viewfinder. Aim the spot circle at your subject. Pull the trigger. Note the number that appears at the bottom of the viewfinder. Set the outermost scale to that number. The two middle scales will now give you the possible aperture/shutter speed combinations. The hard part, as with any meter, is interpreting what the meter is telling you to get a proper exposure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louis_webb Posted October 29, 2002 Author Share Posted October 29, 2002 Ok,I've recieved the meter and it seems pretty straightforward.However,there is a small red button that falls convieniently to your thumb(assuming you're pointing the "gun" with your right hand).Could anyone please enlighten me as to it's purpose please? Also,whilst the lens is fairly well recessed,it is not multicoated and I've read previous posts that recommend making a shade out of a toilet-roll tube and painting this black(!!!!).Has anyone had problems with flair with this meter,or am I worrying over nothing?Again,many thanks for your replies in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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