how difficult is it to learn to manual focus?

[petrina_yyuen]

<p>im thinking of buying a d5000 off a friend for less than half the price. great deal. but i realized that i cant use AF-D lenses with it , or at least AF is not supported. </p>

<p>I DO want to get a 50 mm lens, but i think getting the AF-S one is too pricey. Hence could i just get the AF-D 1.8 50 mm ? and learn to manual focus...</p>

<p>or should i just end up getting the 90D? </p>

[scott_ditzel1]

<p>Most AF lenses are not easy to focus manually. Compared to the older MF lenses anyway...I'd go with the D90 if that is important to you....</p>

[nishnishant]

<p>Get the D90. I struggled for a week trying to use the 50 mm 1.8 AFD with my D40X and finally bought a D80 just so I could get auto focus with that lens. Later on I realized other improvements/benefits of the D80 over the 40X but this was my main reason for buying it.</p>

<p>Manual focus is an absolute pain and will result in a lot of wasted shots, and lost moments. This is specially so for indoor shots, portraits of children etc.</p>

[leslie_cheung]

<p>Why not get the DX 35mm f1.8 AFS? Most of the newer zooms are AFS. I would not recommend MF on a D5000 though one certainly can MF.</p>

[dbcooper]

<p>Manual focus is dirt-simple. You just turn the lens' focus ring until the image is as sharp as it'll get in the viewfinder. I grew up with manual focus, in the days before AF was commercially available. It's no big deal if you have good eyesight and good light. It is way slower than today's AF, though. Guys like HCB would pre-focus or zone focus, then wait for "the decisive moment"...when the composition was just right. SLRs are a dream to manually focus compared to the rangefinders I used growing up. MF will be difficult with a DX camera, though, as the viewfinder is dimmer than a 35mm SLR or a full-frame DSLR. BITD, fast SLR lenses were desirable as much for getting a brighter viewfinder for manual focusing as they were for light-gathering ability or shallow DoF.</p>

<p>I'm not sure about the D5000, but some viewfinders are basically ground glass, some have a ring around the 'bullseye' in the center of the viewfinder that you can verify focus with. You just turn the lens' focus ring until it's as sharp as it will get. Most rangefinders (what I started with) had a split prism, where there was a 'ghost' of the image along with the actual image. For that, you adjusted the focus ring on the lens until the two images merged into one. With some split-view finders you align the top and bottom half of the image. I used one that had two windows - one for the ghost-view rangefinder, the other for the composing viewfinder. Most manual-focus viewfinders are variations or combinations of those types.</p>

<p>It's a useful skill to learn - some current and past manual-focus lenses are highly desirable, like current Zeiss DSLR lenses, some current Cosina/Voightländers, Nikon Noct-Nikkors, Leica Noctilux, etc. The Nikon 50mm f/1.2 manual-focus is still available new. AFAIK, all past and current tilt/shift SLR/DSLR lenses are manual focus as well.</p>

[CoryAmmerman]

<p>A manual focus lens would be easier to focus manually than an AF one, and cheaper too if budget is an issue. But MF lenses won't meter with any of the Nikon consumer level bodies. However, if moving objects are the intended subjects, neither will be the optimal solution. Get the 18-55 AFS kit lens (inexpensive) or a 35mm or 50mm AFS prime (not-so-inexpensive) lens instead. Personally, I would rather manually focus a MF lens and meter in my head than try to manually focus an AF lens on a D5000.</p>

<p>Does anyone know if the D5000 has the focus confirmation dot that my D50 does? Using this aid gives much better results for me than relying on my eyesight.</p>

[ian_rose]

<p>I agree with Cory used to use a 50mm 1.8e series with my D40 the green dot in the viewfinder is a great help also if you are useing a tripod you can always use live view as is rcomended as the best way to focus when doing Macro photography.</p>

<p>Ian R</p>

[bourboncowboy]

<p>Manual focusing is simple. The smaller, dim viewfinders on most DX cameras don't help. If you decide to try this, be sure to pick up a magnifying eyepiece. It'll help.</p>

<p>If I'm not mistaken, non-Ai lenses can be used on the D40/60/3000/5000 as well. They won't meter, but metering is an overrated option for a camera with a rear LCD. Besides, you can usually find a 50 1.4 non-Ai lens in really good shape for under $100. </p>

[nsfbr]

<p>The real problem with manually focusing on modern dSLRs as they ship are the lack of decent focusing screens. That can be addressed with a replacement screen on some models. I have no idea if that is doable on a D5000 though. I've never thought to see - as I've never considered owning a dSLR without a focus motor.<br>

A few moments of searching on Google tells me that yes, you can do a KatzEye for the D5000. You might consider one of those. Or, just get a camera with a motor. I suspect in not much time, the D90 will see significant price erosion.</p>

 

[senthil1]

<p>As Joel says, MF on todays cameras is a pain mainly before of focusing screens. I learnt to take pics on MF, but that had a split-prism focusing screen. So it was great for MF. Later when I got newer cameras that lacked such a screen (even though I could've got a replacement screen for F100), it was very difficult to be sure. And MF is way slow for stuff I started to shoot since.</p>

<p>In your case, I think you are better off just relying on AF though if u really wanna do MF, make sure u can replace ur camera's focusing screen.</p>

[dan_south]

<p>It's very difficult to focus a DX camera manually. The image in the viewfinder is very small, and magnifying viewfinders aren't available for small camera.</p>

[peter_gaunt]

<p>I have a couple of entirely manual lenses which I sometimes use with my D80, partly because I like them and partly because I already had them when I bought the camera. While focussing is not as fast as with my AF-S and AF-D lenses it's not that difficult to do especially with the little green focus light in the viewfinder. The main problem is not focussing but getting the exposure right and even that isn't exactly difficult with (a) experience and (b) the histograms on the review screen.</p>

[joel_p]

<p>I tried my luck with a Zeiss 85mm....had to stop down meter and MF at the same time...taking wide aperture shots of my (very mobile) 16 month daughter was near impossible. I did get some nice artsy overexposed, blurry shots that I actually like - but that was shear luck. MF wide angle landscape is easy with decent screen and focus confirmation, but I would not buy a MF lens above 35mm.</p>

[elliot1]

<p>You are better off with a D90 and the $125 50mm f1.8 lens than the D5000 and the $450 50mm f1.4 AF-S lens as your net cost will be about the same and you will end up with a much better body.</p>

<p>I know that the D5000 seems to be a bargain too good for you to pass up, but based on your comments in this and your previous thread, the D90 would be a better match to your photographic needs.</p>

[robert_k1]

<blockquote>

<p>It's very difficult to focus a DX camera manually. The image in the viewfinder is very small, and magnifying viewfinders aren't available for small camera.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Agreed.</p>

[lachaine]

<p>What's the point of a 50mm fast lens on a DX camera? It's too long for the kinds of photography where you need the fast aperture. 35mm is what you want.</p>

<p>It's not hard to focus a camera which is meant to be manually focused. The problem with later film cameras and current digital ones is that manual focus is an afterthought, meant to be used only if you really have to. It's not practical to do this as your only method of focusing.</p>

<p>Focusing with an all-manual 35mm SLR was easy simply because<br>

(1) The viewfinder was very bright due to those cameras commonly being used with very fast prime lenses compared to what even fabulously expensive zooms offer.<br>

(2) You were not expected to focus simply by getting the view as sharp as possible in the viewfinder. The screens were equipped with a split image or a microprism in the middle to confirm focus. Nobody's eyesight is that good, and half your shots would be slightly out of focus if you didn't have the focusing aid in the viewfinder.</p>

<p>With a modern camera, you have nothing, except just the plain ground glass, and an electronic rangefinder on some cameras. Using a lens that forces you to focus manually at all times is something that is going to get frustrating very quickly.</p>

<p>It has always seemed to me that an AF system which relies on a little protruding screw from the body that mates with a drive system on the lens is a horrible kludge, akin to when Nikon ensured backward compatibility with rabbit ears. AFS is where it's at now, if you don't already have the older lenses. But if you insist on buying non-AFS lenses, then the only sane way to go is with a camera that can use them.</p>

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>To the naysayers, huh? The D5000 <i>does</i> have a focus confirmation light, although it's a single-stage one, unlike the directional ones on the D700/D3/F5 etc. Turn the ring until the focus is close, fine-tune until the light is on, and on a camera with that style of confirmation light try to aim for the middle of the range in which the light is working. I've never tried to manual focus a D5000, but I have tried an Eos 300D (Digital Rebel), which has a <i>horrible</i> viewfinder - and, with the focus confirmation lights, it was fine (except with a tilt/shift lens, for which the AF sensors don't work properly). Failing that, there's always live view. I've used manual focus without the AF sensors when it's been too dark for my 300D (including a couple of weeks ago, with the kit zoom trying to photograph Perseids while my D700 was being serviced) and it's not impossible, even with Canon ergonomics.<br>

<br>

Not that I can comment on the D5000/D90 (or replacement) debate, and if you want to catch anything moving at f/1.8 then manual focus is going to be tricky unless it's a long way off, but it's certainly possible. As Cory said, if you just want the 50mm length then the kit zoom is your friend - the VR with help compensate for the aperture if you just want to shoot in the dark, and neither will cope with a fast moving subject. I hope that helps.</p>

[nishnishant]

<p>Petrina, to summarize what everyone's saying here, get the D90 *grin*</p>

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>Nish - speak for yourself! I wouldn't necessarily steer Petrina away from a body with an AF screwdriver, but there are rumours that the D90 is due for replacement next month. I'd be really nervous about getting one just now - either pick them up when the replacement is announced and cheap, or get the newer model. Or, of course, wait until next month and see whether the rumour is false.<br>

<br>

To add another argument: Petrina - do you intend to get any other pre-AF-S lenses? If not, get the 50 f/1.4 AF-S (or the Sigma one) - at some point you'll replace the body, but you'll still have a (moderately) superior lens. On the other hand, if you think you might get other AF lenses, get the body that can use them. Nikon still have a reasonably-large AF back-catalogue - but I can't imagine they'll design any new ones, so the problem will go away if you're buying at the leading edge.</p>

[SCL]

<p>Learning to manual focus isn't a problem. The viewfinders on DLSRs are, because they aren't optimized for manual focus lenses, which usually have larger apertures than modest DSLR AF lenses. However, I've used AF lenses and older MF lenses on my Nikon DSLR for years...the viewfinder just isn't as bright and clear as my older SLR cameras. 5 minutes or so of practice should tell you whether it works for you or not.</p>

[scott_ditzel1]

<p>Coming back in on this...The DK-21M magnifier will work on either camera IIRC (I use one on a D70s). Plus there are replacement focus screens available for either camera which can be the split image if so desired. ( I have one that I installed myself even though Nikon doesn't say they are replaceable)...I use an assortment of older MF lenses on my camera. Optically, many are just as good as most modern offerings (with the exception being that the newer lenses have improved coatings & some use aspherical elements). For all practical purposes, the older MF glass will give more than acceptable results & save you lots of money. That said, certain shooting situations are not going to be as easy to shoot with older lenses. If you go with the D90, you will also be able to retain AF with older AF glass, should that be a priority for you...</p>

[dweezil]

<p>Get the D90! It's a better camera, It 'll allow you to pick up the AF-D and manual lenses that are starting to come on the 2nd hand market in the coming months and years. Also it has a much better viewfinder; WAY Better than that of the D5000. Hell even a used D80 would be better than the D5000.<br>

Erwin</p>

[User_2000406]

<p>Half price on a D5000? This sounds too good to be true, and I mean that. Is the store in Brooklyn by any chance? It would be best to investigate the seller before trying to buy from them.</p>

[scott_murphy_photography]

<p>One of the problems you will run into is that digital camera focusing screens generally suck for manual focusing. THey are not as descrimination as a standard manual focusing screen, they don't have to be.</p>

<p>I have a D700 and the only lenses I own are manual AIS Nikkors. I learned immediately that focusing manually with the D700 screen was a 5 alarm PITA. I went through the same thing when I got an F4. There are several aftermarket focusing screens available for DSLR's what will enable you to manually focus, all the while retaining the camera's ability to auto focus. focusingscreen.com is the best source I found. THey offer screens for most digital cameras in the Nikon line.</p>

[john_tran14]

<blockquote>

<p>How difficult is it to focus manually?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It can be from "very easy" to "impossible". It depends on:<br>

- the camera you use, prism viewfinder, mirror viewfinder, high/low magnification, what focusing screen<br>

- the focal length<br>

- maximum aperture<br>

- how dark is the subject<br>

- how good your eyes are</p>