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Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ 35


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<p>I have been doing some research on ultra zoom point and shoot cameras and what I read about the Panasonic Lumix FZ35 sounds very good. I will be using it basically for outdoor shooting, scenery, landscape, wildlife and a great macro feature for flowers and insects is a must. Any information and input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks<br>

John P.</p>

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Because Panasonic wants to sell you an overpriced telephoto lens that isn't as good, such as the 45-200 on the microencephalitic 3/4.

 

John P, the FZ35 is about as good as it gets in that size and weight for a superzoom. The Fuji S100fs and S200EXR are better in some ways, but certainly not as small and light. The FZ35's downfall is high ISO, when a DSLR would eat it for lunch. If you can stick to bright light I recommend buying an FZ35 while it is still on sale during the FZ100 transition.

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<p>I had an FZ35 and I liked it except for the power zoom, but that's a problem with all new bridge cameras except the Fuji HS10 which I replaced the FZ35 with. The problem with high ISO's is also a problem with all bridge cameras. If you use it within it's limits, it's as good or better than other bridge cameras, and it's less expensive than most comparable ones.</p>

<p>I love my HS10, but it is not a substitute for my D90 and D60. I use it as a travel light camera, but the DSLR's are far better at high ISO's, sharper, allow far more cropping, and accept a variety of lenses, flashes, and assorted doodads. I would recommend a DSLR if you can afford one, but the FZ35 will do a good job when used within its limits.</p>

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<p>I've had an FZ35 for a few months now, and really like it. IQ is very good, handling is good, and it has the best full auto mode I've ever used. The iA mode really works and produces excellent JPGs.</p>

<p>It's not a match (IQ-wise) for m4/3 or DSLRs, but for what it is, a superzoom, it's excellent.</p>

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<p>I thank everyone who responded with some input on my inquiry. And I have done some other research on some other ultra super zooms ie. Nikon P100, and a couple of the Canon power shots the S3 IS and the SX 20 IS and they all sound pretty good. Just have to make a choice. I'm sure I'll be happy with whichever one I choose. Thanks again.<br>

John P.</p>

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<p>I suggest that you go to a store and handle as many bridge cameras as you can. Pick the one that feels best in your hands and has controls that you find easy to use. The ones you named are all about equal in quality, but they have different feels and different controls and menus. Don't let the salesperson talk you into something. They often push things for their own reasons.</p>
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<p>The problem with the FZ35 for me is that the lens goes to sleep in the camera ... this means the lens is not strong enough to carry a telephoto adaptor ... hence I am happy with my FZ50 which when I add my Olympus x1.7 gives me 735mm equivalent. While oit is not as good as the FZ20 with its f/2.8 constant the loss at f/3.3 is not that much. If the light falls then the solution is to deliberately under expose by up to three stops to get the sharp image and then lift it in editing with the levels tool ... preferably using an adjustment layer so the original photo is not touched.</p>

<p>To mount an adaptor on the FZ35 you will need a mounting tube which screws into the body so the lens is not taking the weight.</p>

<p>The FZ100 is a great disappointment for me because of the loss of aperture as you zoom out ... these so-so designers with a pre-occupation with lightness and smallness over usefulness. I was thinking of 4/3 but there again is the same problem ... so I'm sticking with my FZ50 :-) </p>

<p>You could also consider the relative difference in angle of view between say 735mm that I have and 1500mm ...when you have 10Mp and don't want much more than web use ... and have a good editing program .... it is not worth 'upgrading'.</p>

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<p>The basic approach to take big close-ups with a long zoom is to get a moderate close-up lens or dioptre ...I use a 2 dioptre . The point of this is NOT to get close but to get a tight framing with the zoom/long focal length.<br>

Depth of field remains the same however you go about it ... so using a longer focal length really is the best way for various reasons. The CU lens overcomes the inability of the longer lens to focus close. Typically with a 2 dioptre and x12 zoom I get a 35mm subject filling the sensor crosswise. You could get a 4 dioptre to quarter that area ... 19mm across.</p>

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