Best place to start off in 4x5 photography

[j_marrs]

<p>Bought a book on large format photography. Always been intrigued by the skill & always wanted to try it.<br>

What's the best most affordable way to get into a 4x5 camera? Should you develop the film yourself or send it off?<br>

Is there a digital equivalent yet to 4X5?</p>

[tom_cheshire]

<p>Most people start with something basic like a Toyo 45D. But you might as well get the 45G or, maybe, a Calumet CC401 (aka B&J Orbit). The Toyos (also sold under the Omega name) have the benefit of a GrafLok back that accepts roll film backs. A good basic lens like the 150mm or 210mm Xenar or Symmar S is fine. </p>

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[thirteenthumbs]

<p>There are three basic types of 4x5 cameras:<br>

Press- limited front movements, limited or no rear movements, hand holdable, closes up to a compact size for easy transport;<br>

Field-similar to a press but for tripod use, more rear movements;<br>

Mono rail- can be used in the field but better suited for studio; wider range of movements front and rear.<br>

Choose the type that will work for the bulk of your anticipated work. Not sure, start with a press.</p>

[sumo_kun]

<p>The cheapest way to LF photography is of course a home made pinhole but if you want to use lenses, then a 150mm lens (the "normal" for 4x5), some film holders, and a basic camera will get you the basic kit. Film is easy to develop yourself (you mean B+W right?) but it might not be the best way to do things first. I would say get some slide film and shoot that. You get to see the results instantly (without printing) and it saves you the hassle of setting up your developing routine. It will also blow you away seeing those huge slides on a light table for the first time.</p>

<p>As for camera choice, it probably depends a lot on where you are. The bay has a lot of cheap cameras for sale. The cheapest I could find was a $150 or so Cambo Cadet. Its a monorail and it does pretty much everything you need. Its also modern so its clean and you don't need to worry if it will develop problems. Mine as pretty much brand new. Its only problem is its a bit awkward to pack.<br>

Digital solutions exist but they are crazy expensive and they are quite specialised.</p>

<p>There is a thread about beginning LF just a few posts down from this. You'll find a lot of info in there.</p>

[frank_menesdorfer]

<p>I think the best way to begin is to go out to the well assorted shop with a lot's of used and new cameras look at those and feel them now when you have a book and and have a basics than just fallow your heart. :-) B/W is easy to process just keep yourself to the developing instructions and than there is no reason to send it away.<br />No, there is backs for 4x5 but not a full size.</p>

[Hector Javkin]

<p>If you live near a school of photography, or near a university that offers courses in large format, you may be able to purchase a complete set-up for a very good price from a student who isn't continuing, or at least not continuing in LF. I see offers like this all the time on Craig's list in the Santa Barbara area, which has a well-known photography school. The equipment has typically been selected by instructors. Some students might even be willing to spend at least some time showing you how to use what you are purchasing.</p>

[dan_south]

<p>Rent a camera, a lens, a focusing loupe, and a dark cloth for a weekend (in good weather). Have them show you how to load a couple of film holders so you can make some exposures. However, just picking a subject, composing, focusing the camera, and looking at the image on the ground glass will teach you a great deal about LF technique even if you only end up making a handful of exposures.</p>

[scott_norville]

<p>Most economical way to dip your toe into LF: Speed or Crown Graphic. Many on this forum will deride their lack of movements, but be honest with yourselves--how often do you <em>really</em> use them? An old press camera offers everything else that LF can give: huge negative, lack of convenience and portability, focusing and composing on the ground glass, and most of the image quality coming from whatever glass you stick on the front, anyway.</p>

[thomas_lozinski]

<p>I recently started. I got a monorail and really wish that I had a field camera. The monorail will not fit in a backpack which means I can't bring it too many places. I have been shooting velvia (probably not the best to start with) and having it developed at specialty color services in santa barbara. ($2 per sheet.) I have been using fuji quickloads so I don't have to load the film holders myself. I messed up several shots (forgetting to close the shutter before pulling dark slide (sleeve) and forgetting to stop down before taking shot but did get some decent stuff already. I haven't had anthing scanned yet, waiting to get at least 50 exposures before buying an epson v700. I think I might have been better off with a nice tilt shift lens for my DSLR.</p>

[sknowles]

<p>I started in 2006 and you can get my thoughts on my <a href="http://www.wsrphoto.com/lfbloglist.html">LF blog</a> about the basics and ideas. I agree to rent one if you only want to see if it's worthwhile, but you don't need a dark cloth when a dark, lightweight coat (rain jacket) works as well or if the camera has a GG hood (some Horsemans). I wouldn't invest in processing your own film unless it's a longterm interest. Sending the film to labs is expensive, but considering the time and expenses of a lab, it's not that more expensive (arguable by some). As for the camera, I would suggest a simple field camera, one with few, and preferably no, back movements to learn the basics. Almost everything you want to do is or can be done with the front movements. There are plenty of these cameras, Toyo, Horsemen (I use a HD), Speed Graphics, etc. Good luck.</p>

[nathancraver]

<p>I first bought a monorail, and even though it was a fairly light monorail camera, it was way too heavy and bulky to take anywhere. I bought a used Crown Graphic off the bay. Needless to say, the monorail still has never been used, and the Crown Graphic has been used quite a bit since I bought it. I would highly recommend something like a Crown Graphic or Speed Graphic to start with. They can be found used in great shape for next to nothing. I paid less for a Crown Graphic with Schneider 135 f/5.6 than the lens alone was worth. I would also recommend starting with a 135mm or 150mm lens if you want to shoot landscapes. They are wide, but not too wide.</p>

[brett_r]

<p>Large film is fun to work with. I started with a Super Graphic a few years ago - in my view the least expensive functional way to get into large format as they allow for at least some front forward/backward tilt and swing. Auctions usually even include a lens! But I found I needed to shoot wider than 90mm (which even then is only possible with newer large 90mm lenses, and requires dropping the bed, raising the front standard and sliding it so far back it is partially off it's track:-). Tachiahara and Nagaoka (or Anba) field cameras are the least expensive that offer typical movements and the ability to use wider lenses. I also like that fact that on both of these I can slide the rear standard forward to allow wide angle lens use without getting the front of the base of the camera in the field of view (this is not possible with a lot of more expensive field cameras). Nagaoka is the lightest field camera out there so that is what I use backpacking, but the Tachiahara is a bit more sturdy. Tachihara can still be bought new, but Nagaoka was made in the 1970s. As far as film is concerned, Quickload is the easiest as it does not require a darkroom or light-tight tent to load the holders, but it is no longer manufactured so may not be available much longer. It is more expensive than sheet film. Enjoy!</p>

[warren_williams]

<p>A lot of good advice has been mentioned but here are some more thoughts. The three LF camera types - press, field and monorail all vary in their ability to do certain tasks. What do you want to take pictures of? If it is buildings, you will probably want a bag bellows and a wide angle lens like a 90mm (equal to about a 24 on a 35mm camera). If it is landscapes you could start with a press or field camera or even a monorail (if you don't have to carry it far) and a 150mm. Another thing to consider is that many LF cameras are cheap because of pro's going to digital but accessories can vary in price wildly depending on the make of camera. There is a lot of Sinar and Toyo equipment out there and prices seam to stay low on accessories.<br>

I do a lot of buildings so I got a Shen-Hao - one of the few field cameras with a bag bellows available. I also got a reflex viewer (heresy among some LF purists) but I like it much better than a dark cloth. Lots of choices to make but if you avoid overspending on items, most pieces can be sold for what you buy them for.</p>