Please help me with a decision on a m4/3 camera

[lihong]

<p>Hello everyone, <br>

This forum seems cool down in the summer. I guess people are taking vacations with their gears and there is no time for many to post here :-). <br>

I have been thinking to buy a m4/3 camera for light use or traveling, but I found it is still quite hard to decide which one to pick after reading a bunch of reviews. I have narrowed it down to 3 choices: E-P2, E-PL1 and GF1. I have 4 olympus 4/3 lenses and one panasonic 4/3 lens for a E-620 body. So I inclined to exclude GF1, since autofocus function of most of these lenses will not work with it using an adaptor. Two other things I don't like GF1 are its JPEG off-color and no in-body image stabilization. Since E-P1 is a generation older, that leaves E-P2 and E-PL1. But these two are almost $300 difference. I don't know it worth it to buy an E-P2 over an E-PL1. I just wonder if somebody can give me a clue? I value IQ the most, and I can tolerate some inconveniences. <br>

Thank you very much!</p>

[SCL]

<p>I didn't make the jump into m4/3, but if I had, the E-P2 would definitely have been my choice, for most of the reasons cited by users of the various m4/3 models. I haven't checked the rumors in a couple of weeks, but last I heard was that Oly might offer a small modular m4/3 camera later this year. Here's a link you might find interesting for a lot of info from users: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=146</p>

[gordon_matassa]

<p>You can do a side-by-side comparison of the E-P2 and E-PL1 on dpreview.com:<br>

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sidebyside.asp</p>

<p>I compared the two before I purchased the E-P2 and the main differences I came across were:</p>

<p>E-PL1 does not have the electronic viewfinder, has a slightly smaller LCD screen (2.7" instead of 3"), it only has 6 art filters as opposed to 8, and there are less buttons on the back (thereby making it harder to change settings quickly - for me at least). BUT, the E-PL1 has a small flash that the EP-2 does not have (although I doubt it's really that wonderful of a flash).</p>

<p>If you can do without the electronic viewfinder and the other extra features, then get the E-PL1. You can always buy the viewfinder separately, but it will cost approx. $300. If you're going to do that, you might as well buy the E-P2 and get the extra features but forfeit the built-in flash.</p>

<p>Good luck! I hope you are happy with the m4/3 camera you end up buying.</p>

[meissner]

<p>Note, Olympus has started offering the E-P2 without the viewfinder, so if you are comparing cameras, make sure you know whether the VF-2 comes in the box or not. The E-PL1 does support the VF-2 viewfinder and SEMA-1 external microphone.</p>

<p>The E-P2 comes in fewer colors (black, silver, and in Japan only, white).</p>

<p>The E-P2 supports using the wired shutter release (RM-UC1), the E-PL1 does not support the shutter release. I use the wired shutter release when I have the camera mounted on a tripod or monopod (walking staff). For me, this is a big issue. I don't know if it is an issue for most people.</p>

<p>The E-P2 has an orientation sensor that allows smart upload software to automatically rotate the image to the proper orientation. On the E-PL1 you have to manually rotate the images. For me, this is a medium issue. In addition, there is a live view mode that uses the orientation sensor to tell you when the camera is level. I tend to not use the level, since I can't use the histogram and level at the same time.</p>

<p>The E-PL1 supports a pop-up flash. You can also turn the flash to become a bounce flash with your finger, but it is not really high powered enough to do bounce flash, except in small rooms. In addition to acting as a pop-up flash, you can use it to control Olympus FL-36R, Olympus FL-50R, Metz 48, or Metz 58 flashes remotely off the camera in TTL mode (through the lens mode where the camera controls the flash settings). While I tend to be an external flash snob, this is the one thing in the E-PL1 that I wish the E-P2 had.</p>

<p>The E-P2 has control wheels to change settings like aperture or shutter speed, while the E-PL1 has to use buttons to change settings. If you continually change settings on the fly, it may be a big issue for you. If you don't change settings all that often, it may not be an issue at all. I find I'm sometimes dialing the dial on the E-P2 by accident, and have gotten in the habit of checking settings every so often.</p>

<p>The E-P2 has a slightly faster shutter speed than the E-PL1 (1/4000 vs. 1/2000). Some people that shoot with the 20mm wide open are affected by this, most people don't shoot at that high of shutter speeds.</p>

<p>The E-PL1 has a slightly weaker anti-alias filter. This means the detail is a little sharper, but particularly if you process RAW, the image may suffer from moire more and would have to be corrected.</p>

<p>The E-PL1 comes with a lighter version of the 14-42mm lens with a plastic mount than the 14-42mm lens that comes with the E-P2.</p>

<p>The E-PL1 has a more normal look, the E-P2 has a more retro look. I think, but am not sure, that grip is a different width between the two.</p>

[lihong]

<p>Thank you, guys! I still cannot make up my mind though. I will probably wait for a while. </p>

[GerrySiegel]

<blockquote>

<p>Two other things I don't like GF1 are its JPEG off-color and no in-body image stabilization</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Scratch off the color thing as deficit, Lihong. My limited but not too limited use of my Lumix G-1 vs Olympus E- and E-3 shows no major problem. I fiddle a little with color anyway don' t we all. And would bet a case of pineapples I could equalize color values by the settings in the camera, I mean if I didn't want to play around in the PS menu later just a hair. Body stabilization is more of a controversy..jury is out for me. I lived without it so many years and shoot in environments and -(goshmighty)- know how to use bounce flash - that this is not a compelling factor. A nicety is all. So. Good luck. I do like the way Panasonic is approaching their body and control menu product designs. Hate to say it as I still like my Olympus lenses a lot.</p>

[akira]

<p>Hmm...I don't see any major difference in size between E-620 and m4/3 body. The combination of E-620 and 4/3 lenses you already have should be much more comfortable to operate than the combination of any of the m4/3 bodies you named and 4/3 lenses with adapters. Olympus m4/3 bodies allow AF with these lenses, but you won't get the AF as fast as with E-620 anyway.</p>