Questions RE selected shutter speed and exposure

[bennjamin_williams]

Hey all

 

just a question about selected shutter speed - I have just come back from japan and have a huge amount of 35mm and 120 film

processed and slowly scanning as we speak.

 

I've noticed that most of my 35mm is turning out ok but my medium format stuff is generally under exposed for the same selected film

speed/shutter speed and environment. That is , darker and noisier than expected. While I really like the gothic look for b+w rolls , I've

continued the same on my colour rolls too.

 

Colour speed 160 iso - entirely manual selection of f and shutter speed -

Any hints ? Perhaps halve my shutter speed for

more light ?

sorry no examples for now

Any thoughts appreciated !

[lachaine]

<p>Assuming you also used the same apertures, shutter speeds might not be accurate on one of those cameras. Other than that, if all the settings are the same, there should be no difference between different sizes of film.</p>

[leighb]

<p>ISO 160 color film is typically used with tungsten light.</p>

<p>If you use a color correction filter to balance it for daylight, you must increase the exposure to compensate for loss in the filter.</p>

<p>Is that the situation in this case?</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

 

[William Kahn]

<p>Benjamin, what was a typical shutter speed/aperture combination that you used for your MF shots? I used to do a lot of MF landscape work with Kodak Portra 160VC with no problems - as long as I shot from a tripod and measured incident light with a handheld light meter. I generally used f-stops in the 16 to 22 range, and my shutter speeds were almost always slow, less than 1/60 second. I tend to think that anything less than ISO 400 is just too slow for hand-held shooting with any reasonable latitude in aperture settings...</p>

<p>By the way, where were you in Japan? I spent a lot of time In Yokosuka and Sasebo when I was in the Navy, and lived in Nagoya for a year when I was a kid. It's the only country I ever wanted to go back to...</p>

[jason_hall5]

<p>Assumeing that every thing else was equal, I would think your shutter or aperture maybe off a bit. What kind of MF camera was this and what type of shutter does it use. If its an older camera with a leaf shutter, they are well known for gumming up a bit and sticking.</p>

<p>Also you said "Noisier". I am going to assume you mean grain. I mostly deal with B&W film but that is normaly a product of bad development methods (temps or times not right), or not handleing the film correctly. Getting to hot or being old. Of course folks modify exposure and development methods in a effort to increase grain. But 160ISO film in MF should be pretty darn clean if its good modern film handled and developed correctly.</p>

<p>Jason</p>

[leighb]

<blockquote>

<p>If its an older camera with a leaf shutter, they are well known for gumming up a bit and sticking.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>While that is certainly true, it will almost always result in over-exposure, not under-exposure.</p>

<p>In the case of the aperture blades, lubricant or dirt can cause them to close more slowly, resulting in too much light.</p>

<p>In the case of the shutter, dirt or gum will slow the escapement, resulting in longer shutter opening and again... over-exposure.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

 

[jason_hall5]

<p>Very true Leigh, my mistake. Of course if the camera is a TLR or a rangefinder a dirty aperture would not be an issue.</p>

<p>With that said, there still could be an issue with the shutter not calibrated correctly. In anycase, if the camera is an older one and has not been CLA'ed, I might would do that first before going much further. That is if the OP is not able to find another cause for their trouble.</p>

<p>Jason</p>

[leighb]

<p>Hi Jason,</p>

<p>I repaired cameras for a number of years (graduate of National Camera), and still do repair my own gear.</p>

<p>I only work(ed) on Nikon and Hasselblad, so my breadth of experience is limited. But within those models I don't recall ever seeing an under-exposure problem. Over-exposure errors on the other hand were quite common.</p>

<p>This is a rather odd situation. I'll be interested in reading the resolution.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

 

[bennjamin_williams]

Many thanks for all the replies -

 

Camera is a mamiya 645 super , 80mm and 150mm lenses no noticeable sticking etc.

Sure , the camera I sold and no doubt the lenses even older - I would think it an isue of user error really.

All shots hand held , use kodak 160 and shanghai 100 with speeds from 250-1000 depending on time of day really. Ran

pretty much wide open to alittle adjustment down the scale.

 

I will host some images soon.

 

Reason for this thread is that both my cameras with the same speed film , shutter speed and f stops have slightly differing

results. I would say my own lack of compensation is the culprit :-)

 

anyway , the japan trip was a learning experience ( for the mamiya ) on use and framing , so sofar I am learning.

[jason_hall5]

<p>Hi Leigh, yeah I don't know, but just trying to cover all the angles. </p>

<p>Jason</p>

[leighb]

<p>Hi Jason,</p>

<p>No problem.</p>

<p>I'm as curious about this one as you are. ;-)</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

 

[leighb]

<blockquote>

<p>so far I am learning.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>We're all learning, every day.</p>

<p>That's what makes it interesting.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

 

[bennjamin_williams]

<p>as promised here are some example shots - sorry if its too big !</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11273660-md.jpg" alt="" /><br>

Above is a mamiya 645 shot , 150mm lens. 100iso shanghai , 500 or 1000 i forget. Wide open Obviously not enough light - but actually turned out pretty moody/cool imo. </p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11273659-md.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Another mamiya 645 shot , 80mm lens. same shanghai 100 , 1/500 and wide open. Ive noticed this film and handheld gets a really old authentic look</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11273658-md.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Mamiya 645 , kodak 160 vc , 1/500th handheld. 150mm lens pretty much wide open.<br>

I really like this shot , came out great. Such a rare catch in japan - a vacant worn down alleyway.</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11273653-md.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>just a shot off my pentax spotmatic. 100iso fuji , 28-300 vivitar lens. 1/500 i think and wide open</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11273652-md.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>mamiya 645 , kodak 160 vc , 150mm lens not sure what f stop , hand held. Notice its generally less exposed. A different effect tho. </p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11273651-md.jpg" alt="" /><br>

last another spotmatic shot , same 100 fuji film. 28-300 vivitar again probably wide open. Alittle over exposed</p>

<p>Anyway - feel free to critique my shots too. I feel I have a good idea of composition but still learning the best ways for highlighting and using a fully manual camera. The feel of a old manual slr is great in my opinion :-)</p>

<p> </p>