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3 weeks — London, Rome, Venice & Greece — which film?


xxloverxx

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<p>So I was thinking — 25 rolls of Ektacolor 160; 15 rolls of 120 <strong>FP4, Tri-X or HP5</strong>; 5 rolls of 35mm Ultramax 400; 5 rolls of 35mm Tri-X.</p>

<p>Bolded text is my problem — I can't decide!</p>

<p>For 120, I'll be shooting a Mamiya 645 Pro-TL with 80 2.8. My minimum comfortable handheld speed with this camera at present is 1/60 (WLF with neck strap and stomach for support). I'm looking for still-life photos (misty street scenes, architecture, water shots, sunsets (any candid shots will be done on a 35mm rangefinder)), but I will be using a polariser a lot to darken the sky.</p>

<p>At 125, using a polariser on FP4 would bring me down to ~32. At 400, Tri-X would mean shooting at 100.<br>

…right?</p>

<p>Problem is, I also want fine grain and lots of detail. It needs to be a forgiving film (sometimes I get a bit…generous with exposure). I might also shoot some night scenes (with a tripod).<br>

I was originally going to use Pan F, but did some research and found that it's generally quite a contrasty film(?); besides, using a polariser would take me to ISO 12…not cool <strong>on a cruise</strong>.</p>

<p>Did a bit of Google — Greece seems to be quite sunny most of the time in summer, Rome and Venice okay-ish and London the cloudiest.</p>

<p>Any suggestions appreciated — I have ~4 days to decide what films I want to buy (need to tell the lab so they can save/order some for me)</p>

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<p>I travel quite a bit with 120 film and a Mamiya 7. I generally travel with Tri-x (the majority of my film), Ilford 3200 (rated at 1600) and either FP4 or Kodak 125 film. With medium format, it is pretty easy to burn the last few shots on a roll and change film to fit the light. I would recommend some 3200 speed film for handheld night shots, dusk and sunrise shots and for shooting interiors of museums and cathedrals.</p>

<p>I shoot more Tri-x than any other film. I prefer the higher shooting speed for hand held than one can get from a 100 speed film. You give up a little on the detail and tone, but I think I make it back by shooting at a higher speed with less camera movement. YMMV. Either Tri-x or HP5 would work the same, which do you prefer in general?</p>

<p>One more thing, do you really need the polarizer with black and white? For darker skies, you could use a yellow filter and only lose one stop. </p>

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<p>Either Tri-x or HP5 would work the same, which do you prefer in general?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Can't tell the difference between them.</p>

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<p>With medium format, it is pretty easy to burn the last few shots on a roll and change film to fit the light</p>

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<p>Well I have 2 backs, but one's for colour & one for B&W — don't really want to get more complicated than that (I'm prone to dropping things and that might not work out in Venice)</p>

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<p>I shoot more Tri-x than any other film.</p>

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<p>Same (on 35mm)</p>

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<p>One more thing, do you really need the polarizer with black and white?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yep.</p>

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<p> For darker skies, you could use a yellow filter and only lose one stop.</p>

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<p>I don't have any other 58mm filters :P and I'm the only one in the entire family who does use filters (the rest are digital, PP people). Also I like the idea of a darker-than-yellow-can-give sky (I often use a yellow filter with my J8)</p>

 

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<p>I shoot more Tri-x than any other film. I prefer the higher shooting speed for hand held than one can get from a 100 speed film. You give up a little on the detail and tone, but I think I make it back by shooting at a higher speed with less camera movement.</p>

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<p>Thanks for the opinion — I may just go with Tri-X.</p>

<p>I was taking a bit of a risk going with FP4 anyway as I've never shot such a slow film before…</p>

<p>Prices are the same across most B&W films so that makes me quite happy (the budget stays at just over HKD4000)</p>

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<p>You don't have much time and neither do I so if I seem a bit terse, that's why. <br>

Are you sure that your itinerary is consistent with getting great , evocative, misty photographs? What times of day will you be onshore and for how long? What opportunity will you get to discover places that aren't busy with tourists?</p>

<p>To be frank you concerns about film are trivial compared with being realistic about the photographic opportunity a cruise represents. Its a holiday. Whilst I wouldn't get concerned at all with grain on 120 b&w I would in your place be wondering whether it was worthwhile to carry a MF camera with a single lens. </p>

<p>Sincerely I'd take at most a 35mm or dslr with a zoom or two, or maybe even just a quality digital compact. I suspect you'll make a lot more of your opportunity that way. </p>

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<p>Any suggestions appreciated — I have ~4 days to decide what films I want to buy (need to tell the lab so they can save/order some for me)</p>

</blockquote>

<p> <br>

I can't speak for Rome, Venice or Greece but you can buy any of those films in London.</p>

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<p>Will be in London from the 22nd-25th. No mist…alright, thanks.</p>

<p>David: my shooting style involves 1 lens; I very rarely use zooms.</p>

<p>Steve: so I've heard, but I'm in London for the first 3 days, so there's no way I'll have burnt through 50 rolls by then.</p>

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<p>Steve: so I've heard, but I'm in London for the first 3 days, so there's no way I'll have burnt through 50 rolls by then.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>What I meant was that you could buy some film in London to suit the conditions rather than bring it all with you.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>What I meant was that you could buy some film in London to suit the conditions rather than bring it all with you.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I would, if we weren't on such a tight schedule. Given my choice I'd buy film for each place we go and not bring all of it at once, but as I'm travelling with the family and a few friends, it doesn't look like an option.</p>

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