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Kx or K7


cameracrack

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<p>Hi<br>

I'm shopping around for my own DSLR. I use mostly only film cameras. Up to now I have been borrowing my husbands Sony A300. I am getting more serious about my photography and this semester I am taking three photography courses and think it's time I get my own. After much research I had decided on the K-X. I especially like that you can use any Pentax lens even made with it. Adorama has a lens kit with 18-55mm and 55-300mm. I was also looking at the K-7 and now I am just not sure if I should get the K-7 or the K-X. The K-X is an entry level DSLR. I don't know if it would be a smart move on my part to buy the K7 and "grow" into it.<br>

What are your thoughts?</p>

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<p>Well, although the two are very capable cameras, they are aimed at different kinds of users- the novice/entry user K-x and the advanced enthusiast-to-pro K-7. The kit lenses with the K-x are good lenses, but they are built to a budget, even to the point of plastic mating surfaces on the bayonet mounts.</p>

<p>I wouldn't let the advanced features of the K-7 scare you away from it. You seem to be an experienced photographer, and you've been using both film and digital SLR's. The K-7 has the build to take everything you can toss at it. The build of the K-x is much lighter duty, but that does not mean it's a cheapy camera that won't last the test of time. You will have to learn to use either one of them... both are unfamiliar, so I don't necessarily share the view of growing into the K-7. Heck, both of these cameras are so advanced compared to 5 years ago that if this were a move-up camera, you'd be "growing" into this new one.</p>

<p>Put both in manual mode and the plethora of features each has become secondary. You have to walk before you run. Control aperture, shutter, and ISO- the basics. They both do that. It's all the other stuff that comes along with it that you should consider. Of course the K-x's lack of the red spot focus point indicator in the viewfinder is a deal breaker for some folks, as has been expressed on this board before.</p>

<p>If it's in your budget, and you are really serious about what you are trying to accomplish, go with the K-7 and invest in the best lenses you can. If you want to get rolling in DSLR-dom and want to control costs for now, go with the K-x and kit lenses, and then see what Pentax will have to offer in the near future (6 months? 1 year? 2 years?) as the upgrade to the K-7 (which has been on the market for a full year now). The K-x will give you those lenses from the start, but you can also start obtaining upgraded, higher quality lenses as time and budget permit. Awesome lenses on even an entry level camera will give terrific results.</p>

<p>Flip a coin?</p>

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<p>Liana,<br>

I'm not sure if you should have discounted Sony so quickly. I am a Pentax user and have a Kx and K20D and find they fit my needs perfectly - but that is mostly because I have a bagful of Pentax lenses that I have acquired slowly over the past few years.<br>

The myth of using any Pentax lens ever made is one you should carefully investigate. Technically this is correct - but unfortunately people like me have acquired these lenses to the point that a well known used camera superstore has only three or four autofocus prime lenses for Pentax in stock at any moment. There are still quite a few manual lenses available - however using these lenses on "cropped" or APS sized sensor cameras is not as pleasant as using them on a 35mm sized viewfinder with a focusing screen set up properly for manual focus - even considering the autofocus assist feature. In comparison, there are usually 30 or more Sony/Minolta autofocus primes available in the commonly used focal lengths.<br>

Pentax has some truly excellent lenses in their current line-up, and if your budget permits you will find that they are amazing pieces of optical design and workmanship. But if you are looking to pick up budget priced but still optically excellent prime lenses have a look at what is available in the Sony/Minolta family. There seem to be some really excellent deals in that family. Like Pentax, Sony has in-body shake reduction that works will any lens installed on the camera.<br>

The Pentax Kx is a really good camera (an incredible deal actually, and uses a Sony sensor), but the latest Sony cameras aren't too bad either.  When you are ready to upgrade, the Sony full frame cameras (A850 and A900) are incredible deals from a price performance basis. Pentax has never indicated that they will come out with a 35mm sized sensor camera.<br>

Best of luck with your search.!</p>

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<p>You might want to read my thoughts on the camera <a href="http://enticingthelight.com/2010/03/22/review-pentax-k-x-part-1-first-look/">here</a>. I shoot weddings and use it as my second camera for certain situations. With around 10,000 frames shot, I can safely say that the K-x is a great camera at a very reasonable price. It's easy to use (in many ways, easier than the "bigger" models. I'd highly recommend this camera.</p>
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<p>There is a pretty full fledged review of the K-7 here:</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/equipment/pentax/k7/review/</p>

<p>Having used this camera now since last July, I can say it is absolutely a joy to use, build is great, and while my battery life still isn't quite what I would like (and is still my biggest complaint), it seems to be slightly better with the firmware updates, or me using it a little more intelligently. If I really need super battery life I will add the battery grip and use AA lithiums. For now though I am doing just fine with 2 batteries, and eventually I'm sure I'll rotate through 3-4 like I did with the K10/20Ds. Truthfully the only times I'd worry about my battery life are in the cold and on long distance off grid trips. In both cases I'd opt for AA batteries anyway. The only downside is 4 batteries on a trip with the K10/20D were enough for days of intensive shooting or perhaps 2 weeks of light shooting.</p>

<p>I'm still only getting about 6GB out of the K-7 just as a note. This is quite bit lower than the K10/20Ds 10-12GB but the advantage of the K-7 over the K-x is that each 6GB only cost me the price of electric to charge the battery, while the K-x might get 25GB (2000 RAW) on a set of AA Lithiums, it will require more cost per GB to run long term.</p>

<p>Nothing against the K-x, but the K-7 is built to last. What that means in an age when a camera is supposedly obsolete in a few years is a good question? But anyway, my K10Ds have lasted almost 4 years without being overly babied, and they still get used. But the size of the K-7 was the real killer of the K10Ds, not technological obsolescence. The size to feature set and IQ is really unmatched by any brand SLR, adding in the build the K-7 can't really be compared to any camera. IMO, it's the finest built and tech spec'd SLR Pentax has ever made in any format (well, maybe aside from the $9000 645D)</p>

<p>Overall though I think it depends on what you are shooting. If I was living in the 800 plus ISO zone and I had no predispositions towards the handling or features, I'd say the K-x is a slightly better camera. If only a small percent of my images are from 1000 to 3200 then I'd opt for the better featured and better built K-7. From ISO 400 down the K-7s images are outstanding when printed. Another thing to consider, are you printing or just screen viewing? If you are printing the K-7 is a far better camera than most reviews credit it with since most look at the images purely in a digital pixel peeping sense.</p>

<p>As an example of missing features on the K-x, even though I mostly use center point focus, the K-x lack of focus points would drive me nuts. That is just one example of a feature missing on the K-x that the K-7 has. There are lots of others.</p>

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<p>I have them both K7/K-x and I recommend you to buy the K7 because at the actual prices it is a steal! Don't get me wrong, the K-x is a wonderful entry level DSLR but when BHPhoto has a semi-pro like the K7 for 760 USD, if I would have lived in the US I'd have bought a second one!<br>

So, unless you have a fetish for fancy coloured DSLRs or you need every cubic cm of space or you shoot always in ISO above 800, get a K7.<br>

BTW, if one shoots RAW, the output of K7 at high ISO is also excellent, with a little NR.</p>

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<p>No need to 'grow into' a K-7. The only thing a newbie might miss vs. an entry-level model are the 'scene' modes which most people stop using once they learn just a little about the how and why of controlling aperture and shutter speed anyway. K-7 is a fantastic 'advanced amateur' model--basically has solid, weather-sealed build and just about every feature you'd want. K-x is a good body that doesn't leave much that's important out but K-7 gives you plenty for the extra money. The higher-res rear LCD, brighter, bigger 100% viewfinder, the slick, quiet shutter, weather-sealing, improved metering, extra hard controls (two e-dials, less menu-diving) make it worth the extra money if you have the money to spend on it. That said, the K-x represents excellent value as you'll get the two-lens kit with body for less than K-7 body alone. On the other hand, the lenses you'd buy with the K-7 might be a little better with metal mounts, quick-shift focusing, and lens hoods (economies of the DA-L kit lenses bundled with the K-x). So if your budget is ~$700, get the K-x & two-lens kit and have a blast. If your budget allows for spending over $700 on the body alone plus buying lenses, K-7 won't disappoint.</p>
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<p>Actually I agree with Andrew's comment that it's less about missing features than significant upgrades on the K-7.</p>

<p>The screen on the K-7 is something I forget about having it now, but the 900+K dot screen is simply beautiful compared to the older 200+K dot screens. It makes things like live view extremely enjoyable to use, and I can actually review critical focus now without guessing.</p>

<p>With live view I was a little skeptical if 100% view finder was even needed anymore. And while it's not on a tripod in most cases, it is amazing when shooting handheld. With slides you often lost a bit off the edges of the frame making 100% not 100% needed, but with digital you can use every pixel edge to edge if you want. I actually appreciate this more and more each day, and I have to remind myself what I am seeing in the VF is the full frame, no surprises on the edges so go ahead and crop tight without needing to leave a margine for error.</p>

<p>As far as the shutter, it's very nice. Super quiet and less blackout between shots. In some ways I miss the "thunk" for single shots from the older Pentax DSLRs, but when shooting sucessive shots I really like the ultra quiet K-7 shutter. No more gattling gun effect. Bad thing is it really makes my 645N sound like a Howitzer in comparison.</p>

<p>Anyway, for the price, assuming the K-7 fits your general ISO shooting preferences I think it's simply a steal. I set my buy point at $900 and I have no regrets, I see it goes for under $800 at some reputable dealers now. To think a camera in many ways on par or superior to the D300S and mostly superior to the Oly E-3 is going for <$800 is insane.</p>

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<p>I'm happy with my K-x but I could see getting another body at some point too. A K-7 or maybe I'll hold out for what's next. I'd love something between the two (sealed, smallish, good high ISO, quiet).<br>

But no regrets on the K-x purchase whatsoever. The batteries are cheap (got a few sets of eneloops), it's easy to bring along, and the camera makes images I'm happy with. Adding a couple of the small Limited Primes makes for a nice small and capable package.</p>

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<p>I don't use the entry-level stuff, never have. When I started with the K100D, I was in P(rogram) and Tv (Shutter Priority) most of the time. When I upgraded to the K20D, I got the TAv (Shutter-Aperture Priority) mode, which was a leap in flexibility.<br>

If I was to buy a new Pentax system today, I'd buy the K-7. The only reason I bought the K-x was because it was a cheap backup to my K20D, back when the K-7 was still nearly $1K and the K-x had dropped to under $500. Now you can get the K-7 at B&H for around $750, making it a lot closer to the K-x.<br>

Although I have to admit that if your husband has Minolta-Sony glass, you might want to look at an A350 or something similar.</p>

 

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