Track & Field: creating a composite of a long jumper

[jiti_chadha]

<p>I would like to create a composite of an athlete doing a long jump or pole vault. The finished picture would have 4 or 5 images of him from the point of take off to landing, showing him in flight etc.</p>

<p>I need all the help and advice on how to do this as far as taking the multiple exposures is concerned keeping in view the BEST INPUT for Photoshop to then work on these photos. (The Photoshop part is a separate question which I'll deal with later). </p>

<p>Thanks in advance</p>

[john_a5]

<p>Well, if you want to make your life as easy as possible, be sure you use a tripod, manual settings (aperture/shutter and focus) and select an angle that doesn't have the chance of light flair. Then it is just a matter of getting to a distance and focal length that will give you the area you want to cover--just stay out of the way of the discuss and javelin!</p>

[jiti_chadha]

<p>The tripod might be a problem. Does a monopod with a cable release help?<br>

Assuming there is sufficient light, what would be the best manual settings for this, since I need to freeze the long jumper in each frame?<br>

How does one focus manually - zone focusing? <br>

Thanks</p>

[daverhaas]

<p>Monopod would help, tripod would be best, but if not possible then use tripod. </p>

<p>I'd set the focus - manual - by having someone stand approximately were the jumper will be - assuming you're shooting from the side and the distance between you and jumper will be a constant. </p>

<p>Set the shutter speed for at least 1/400 sec and app at f 8 - change ISO to make it work. The f8 is more than I'd normally use for sports - since I normally am spot focusing on the subject and I want the background blurred. </p>

<p>Dave</p>

 

[john_a5]

<p>The idea for the tripod is that then your frame will be exactly the same in every case. When you go to isolate the jumper and combine the images, your selections will allow for some slop as whatever is in the background will be the same (practically speaking anyway) A monopod can help, but don't pan the camera, always be pointing it at the same exact place!</p>

<p>My camera allows the auto focus to be turned off except when I hit a button on the back. Most cameras still allow the use of the focus aids in the manual setting. So focus on something at the plane where the jumper will pass--autofocus will mess you up unless you put something at the plane of focus the runner will be on--otherwise the focus might be on the crowd or across the field except when the jumper is at that spot.</p>

<p> </p>

[jiti_chadha]

<p>I found a similar photo at <a href="http://www.daveblackphotography.com/on-the-road/0409.htm">http://www.daveblackphotography.com/on-the-road/0409.htm</a><br>

(second from top). There Dave Black used f/4 and 1/800.<br>

I have the Canon EF S 10-22 on a 7D body - will that be sharp enough for this kind of a photo.<br>

Also, any tutorials etc. you guys can point me to regarding the camera work as well as the Photoshop work.<br>

Thanks</p>

[scott_ferris]

<p>Jiti,</p>

<p>It is really easy. The easiest way to do it is to frame the complete sequence and leave your camera still, it doesn't matter about a tripod or monopod or cable release, just don't pan (you can pan for bigger ones but they take a lot more PS work). Ok, take your series of images, the shutter speed just needs to be fast enough to freeze most of the motion, a blurred hand or foot is a good thing. Nothing difficult, just regular shots. I use M so the exposures are constant but it is no big issue either way. Any camera (that can shoot the required FPS) and any lens is fine for this kind of thing, the 7D would work very well and the 10-22 would be fine if it gets you the right framing. When you have your 6-10 images the cleverer bit starts.</p>

<p>Open the first image in PS, open the second image in PS, select a loose selection around the athlete but include a bit of background and a prominent point that you use to line the images up with, something like the support poles. Copy that selection, then go to your first image, Paste, this will paste the selection from the second image onto the first, but not in the right place, next Free Transform, with the layer on 50% opacity you can then move it about until the second part is in the correct place, line up your prominent points. Then 100% opacity and erase any bits that don't look "right" but don't go too close to the athlete, it looks funny if you do. Then just repeat as often as you have different images in the sequence. Do any necessary adjustments to each layer, when you are happy save a copy then flatten, do any other adjustments and you are done.</p>

<p>Should look something like this quicky I did to explain in another thread. The longer you take to get the erasing right the better they look, this took under ten minutes and looks like it :-), I have done some panned ones that took over two days, but look really good.</p><div></div>

[jiti_chadha]

<p>Wow Scott, thats great work and very well explained. Thanks so much.<br>

Any chance you can share the panned ones and the other thread you talk about?<br>

Focusing right seems to be the only tough part. Probably manual zone focusing is the only way since AF is not likely to work too well?</p>

[William Michael]

<p>Dive 304C: Reverse one-and-a-half, in tuck position 3mtrs.</p>

<p>Degree of Difficulty 2.1</p>

<p>Scores: 2.5 | 2.5 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.5</p>

<p>WW</p>

[caleb_h1]

<p>Jiti, what version of PS do you have? If it is new enough you can do a photomerge (file>automate>photomerge in CS3) with all the frames. This will line up all the shots for you... especially nice if you handheld the camera (no one can hold it perfectly still!) or even more so if you panned across the scene (similar to creating a panoramic with landscape photography). Just don't let it blend the images. Once its done, apply a clipping mask to each image and "paint" away all but the long jumper. Usually you just have to get enough hidden so that there is no overlap from frame to frame. If they jumper overlaps himself there's a little more work but is doable.</p>

<p>As a side note I usually use the first frame as the background for the image, but if you pan the camera you will have to use a couple frames by duplicating some layers after the photomerge is finished.</p>

<p>Here's one I took a little while back. If I remember right I panned across the pitch and only had some minor cloning to do (the third baseman was in there). If you have any questions ask away.</p>

<p>Caleb</p><div></div>

[scott_ferris]

<p>Caleb,</p>

<p>You are right and your method is more modern, much faster and easier than mine. I just tried it, I went File: Scripts: Load files into Stack, after selecting your images it gives you an auto align option, choose it and you are good to start erasing. The only thing I had to do was reverse the order of the layers.</p>

<p>Thanks, Scott.</p>

[jiti_chadha]

<p>Caleb, thanks for the great suggestion. I have Photoshop CS5.<br>

Presumably the sequence will be the same in that?</p>

[caleb_h1]

<p>I would assume it should be very similar if not the same! I really suggest using the clipping masks rather than actually erasing away part of each layer. I say this because I have completely taught myself photoshop over the last 8+ years and I didn't learn about clipping masks till about 2 years ago. They make life so much easier and quicker!</p>

[scott_ferris]

<p>Caleb,</p>

<p>I'd agree with you on clipping masks for things like your pitcher where there is a big overlap of the subjects, but for things like mine, where there is little or no subject overlay, the erase method really is incredibly fast.</p>