Head and Tripod for 5D2/16-35 L Night Sky work?

[charles_wood]

<p>I should have perhaps posted this question on the tripod/accessories forum but I would rather have suggestions from users of this combination. I'm venturing into night sky/ night landscape photography and I want the most stable tripod/head combination possible that is still light enough to carry sometimes many miles on a 67 year old back! I've got various lightweight tripods and heads that are sufficient for traditional work but for 1-4 minute exposures, I'm looking for real stability.<br>

All suggestions welcomed. Thanks.</p>

[b_christopher]

<p>When using a lighter tripod/head combo, you could always add more weight on the legs for greater stability. Doubled plastic grocery bags with some rocks or dirt hanging from the center column would do well, even.</p>

[charles_wood]

<p>I do that often but I'm doubtful the heads on my existing tripods are sturdy enough for my purpose. I'm thinking I need something more along the lines of support adequate for a MF or view camera.</p>

[charles_wood]

<p>I do that often but I'm doubtful the heads on my existing tripods are sturdy enough for my purpose. I'm thinking I need something more along the lines of support adequate for a MF or view camera but at the same time I don't want to carry an additional 4-8 lbs of tripod and head, if I can avoid it.</p>

[john_a5]

<p>Not sure why your current heads wouldn't be sturdy enough? Do they slip? Long exposures, barring wind, generally are pretty forgiving of any camera shake at the beginning or end of the shot. I mean, if the camera shakes for 5 seconds on an exposure of 3 minutes, it is negligible.</p>

<p>Probably any good Manfrotto 3 way head would do the trick (best are ones not cantilevered, but rotate off center axis), but if you want something that is rock solid, look into one of their geared heads--I think they start at about $200.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>Induro's CT414 8-ply carbon fiber tripod with the Arca-Swiss Z1 ballhead would be excellent. This a very solid combination that I've carried miles (62-years old). You can also add weight, but you'll seldom need it with that light of body/lens combination. This combo will work, so long as the wind is relatively calm. When wind is high and gusty, then exposure that long will need a camera/lens bolted to a huge boulder.</p>

[pgranone]

<p>I have used 3 metal tent stakes. One for each leg of the tripod. Using a loop of wire, or plastic zip ties to tie it down to the ground.<br>

sounds a bit odd, but it sticks the tripod to the ground. it does not blow over or move.</p>

 

[scott_ferris]

<p>I use an <a href="http://acratech.net/product.php?productid=69">Acratech GP</a> head with my 1Ds and 16-35, very solid, very flexible and very light, it also reverse mounts to make stitched panos. Best head I have ever owned by a long way.</p>

[steven_f1]

<p>Any tripod that is stable enough for a 15 to 30 second exposure is stable enough for 1 min, 4 min, or 4 hour exposure. Once the shutter is open ther only movement that you need to deal with is from you touching the tripod and camera or from the wind. The wind won't be a problem most of the time and vibration from touching the camera and tripod can be eliminated by using a remote release. This is based on my personal experience, I have taken many photo with exposures of a few seconds to 30 seconds long (with a few several minutes long) and with film I have done exposures of several hours.</p>

<p>In regards to the tripod head you want one that won't come loose while your exposure is occuring. if it comes loose you camera could mome destroying the image you are trying to make. <br />In all likelyhoood on of your existing tripods should work fine. I currently use an old bogen aluminum tripod with a bogen 410 mini gear head. It works fine for me by you might find the 410 mini gear head a little heavy for your tasts. I am curently using 5DMkI camera.</p>

[martin-s]

<p>I second the recommendation for a geared head. They're a joy to use when it comes to precise framing. I use the larger Manfrotto 405 head since it's easier to operate with gloves.</p>

<p>I've also found the suggested method of adding weight to the tripod to work quite well. A simple sling, that you can put rocks in – or even a camera bag – strapped to the tripod, can make a lot of difference.</p>

[b_christopher]

<p>Mr. Wood, Carbon fiber legs and pan/tilt heads are probably what you're after. Less weight while still offering great stability. Mind you, the sturdier carbon fiber legs are more expensive compared to aluminum type. (<a href="http://www.adorama.com/Als/SearchPage/carbon+fiber+tripod/?Count=10&SearchInfo=carbon+fiber+tripod">LINK</a>) (<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=carbon+fiber+tripod&ci=15293&N=4294205295">LINK</a>)</p>

[charles_wood]

<p>Thanks all, I'll check out all the links. I have a head and tripod that are sturdy enough, just not looking forward to lugging 7-8 pounds in addition to water, food, etc., plus camera and lenses. I'm starting to think carbon fiber is the way to go. Thanks again.</p>

[john_a5]

<p>Admittedly, I haven't looked lately, but check and be sure that the legs on any tripod you look at open up far enough! (Besides, that's what you hire assistants for--carrying heavy things!) I bought one and I rarely use it as the leg spread is just very unstable--just sayin'!</p>

[ken schwarz]

<p>For a really lightweight approach, you can use a mini-tripod without extensible legs. It raises the camera only 6 inches or so, but if you set it on a table or a car hood it's convenient. It weighs only a few ounces, takes up next to no room in your pack, and will not sway even in wind because it is so small. It has a simple ball head which is just fine for this use. I have an old one branded by Polaroid, but I'm pretty sure that Manfrotto makes something like it today.</p>

[w_t1]

<p>If you get the arca-swiss system as others have suggested, make sure you get an L-bracket (of no use however if your lens has a collar, ie tele). I haven't used my pan-tilt heads for still photos since 2007 since switching to the arca-swiss system. Also get one of those headband or baseball cap style mounted led lights to make sure everything is good in the dark - beats the small flashlight i was always holding between my teeth.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>The Arca-Swiss Z1 ballhead has a drop-U slot so that you don't need an L-bracket. I don't know about their geared heads, but the ball-head doesn't need an L.</p>

<p>BTW, speaking of ball vs. geared, I much prefer the ballhead for the speed of composition, moving the head and the zoom at the same time, to compose and merely locking down the ball with a small twist of the locking knob. If the geared heads don't have a drop-slot, then that's another advantage to the ballhead.</p>

[steven_f1]

<blockquote>

<p>BTW, speaking of ball vs. geared, I much prefer the ballhead for the speed of composition, moving the head and the zoom at the same time, to compose and merely locking down the ball with a small twist of the locking knob. If the geared heads don't have a drop-slot, then that's another advantage to the ballhead.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>David I sugggest you don't yalk about gear heads because you don't know anything about them. Gear heads don't have drop-U slot because they don't need them. On the 410 gear head you can vertical to horizontal and back in in only about 1 secon. L brackets are not needed with gear heads. Also gear head don't have lockinng knobs to worry about. The design of the gears is that the instant you set ythe possition the head is lock automatically. And if you decide to make a small change in composiotion you don't have to unlock anything. There is no need to for a locking lever on gear head and in fact none of the Bogen gear heads have one. With over 10 years of use I can confidently say that there is no way for the head to move unless you actually decide to move it. As to speed of composition That really depends on how well you know your equipment. With practace anyone cana get fast with there equipment. You might be very surprised as to how fast gear heads can be positioned. The only advantage ball heads over gear heads is that they are lighter.</p>

[sarah_fox]

<p>I just bought a Giotto 1302 ball head. Very nice unit!</p>

<p>As long as the wind isn't blowing, about any tripod should do the job very well. No need to get fancy.</p>

[robertbody]

<p>Many people try a Gitzo, love it, and don't go back. I like mine because it can go up high enough up to my face without bending, and I am 6'2". I think it goes up to 6'6" and that's before the head goes on top. Arca Swiss B1 with quick release plate, screws on top.<br /> <img src="http://robertbody.com/animals08/images/2008-07-27-rip-canon500-18188.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="500" /><br /> That picture makes my tripod look like it's all metal, but carbon fiber is just about to begin out of the picture, i promise. Actually it's the foam pad cover on the carbon fiber that would show if i didn't cut it off.<br /> There is lots to say about tripods, I don't know how much you know. I don't use a center column on my Gitzo, I think it's 1548 or 1348, one of those discontinued ones... i got it used... for half price... $400. And now that's not half of $400, $400 is the half price. Or may it was $300 used... almost mint... but that's the price you're looking at for Carbon Fiber Mountaineer Gitzos.<br /> 1 thing about Gitzos is that the base is a larger diameter than on a $200 Manfrotto (which would have a center column and still not get to the same height). The larger diameter of the base makes for more stability.<br /> You definately don't want to extend the center column upwards if you want max stability on a tripod.<br /> Ballhead........ $400... Arca Swiss [probably $440 or a bit more by now, look at Adorama prices]... and then Really Right Stuff plate for your camera, for the quick release to mount... $140 for 5d2, L bracket, you can slide it into the ballhead in Horizontal or Vertical direction. Price adds up quick but that's the good stuff, and finding Really Right Stuff plate on Ebay will be hard, you will have to get it new. That's the good stuff, but sure doesn't feel wobbly, and the weight for carrying it justified.<br /> (That's not the right way to support a 500mm lens on a tripod by the way, the lens and the camera were a rental, the tripod is mine. For a day or two it's usable though.)<br /> I hope you do some reading on night shots and long exposures, expect noise beyond a few seconds... there are different techniques you can read, one of them is taking many several second exposures and combining them -- into star trails for example. I would want a 24mm f/1.4 II or 35mm f/1.4 instead....... your f/2.8 is not that fast at night.... experience will show<br /> <img src="http://robertbody.com/arizona08/images/2008-09-02-supers-stars-23434.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="500" /></p>

[steven_crist]

<p>Go to your local hardware store and get about 2 feet of chain and a clip that fits through the chain. Then use your camera bag as stabilizing ballast. I shoot lighthouses at night with Canon 1D bodies and 400mm telephotos with this setup using a lightweight Manfrotto 190XProB tripod with Manfrotto 496RC2 ball head. That combination cost less than $250 and works fine. See attached photo.</p><div></div>

[dcstep]

<p>Robert Body, why are you using an L-plate on a ballhead with a drop-slot?</p>

<p>I use the Arca-Swiss Z1 with the 5D2 and simply flip the camera vertical when I want a vertical format image. You DO need to be sure when mounting the camera that the short side is on the same side as the drop-slot.</p>

[scott_ferris]

<p>David,</p>

<p>There are several reasons to use an L plate with a ball head, I have never seen a ball head that does not allow a 90 degree drop either. Some call it a drop slot, some don't but all enable 90 degrees of movement.</p>

<p>But the reasons, a big camera and lens become much more unstable when hung sideways in a ball head (though the Acratech GP does become a gimbal), and to do stitching, keeping the entry point (nodal point) above the center of rotation is important, also, framing, if you have positioned the tripod to the correct place for your image, but decide to swap orientation an L plate enables you to keep the tripod in place, very useful in macro situations.</p>

<p>Just use an L plate once and you'll see why they are so useful, IF, you take a decent mix of landscape and portrait orientation images.</p>

[JohnMWright]

<p>One of the Gitzo carbon fiber models... they are both light and stable, but not cheap. I'd look into the 35xx series... my 3530 is 4 lbs and very very solid. I have taken many shots in windy conditions as well as long exposures without any problems. </p>

<p>I'm also happy with my Kirk BH-1 ballhead. Once locked it does not budge. There are newer lighter ballhead models that are supposed to be even stronger though. Acratech, Arca-Swiss, Really Right Stuff, Kirk, Markins all have great reputations.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>Steven F said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"David I sugggest you don't yalk about gear heads because you don't know anything about them."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Well Steven, your suggestion is flat assed wrong. You'll see my Manfrotto/Bogen for sale real soon. My Arca-Swiss Z1 is one of the top ballheads, so others may have shortcomings with which I'm not familiar, but that thing doesn't move unless you intend it to.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>Scott said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"But the reasons, a big camera and lens become much more unstable when hung sideways in a ball head (though the Acratech GP does become a gimbal), and to do stitching, keeping the entry point (nodal point) above the center of rotation is important, also, framing, if you have positioned the tripod to the correct place for your image, but decide to swap orientation an L plate enables you to keep the tripod in place, very useful in macro situations."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Thanks for answering my question Scott. I hadn't thought of vertical oriented stitching. I DO do a good bit of landscape, but hadn't done a vertical pano-stitch yet. Adding an L-plate to my list of things I need...</p>

<p> </p>