D3 on RRS “Ultimate-Pro Omni-Pivot Long Package”

[shineofleo]

<p>I have searched the forum but could not find proper anwer. I just want to ask if anyone uses Really Right Stuff/RRS “Ultimate-Pro Omni-Pivot Long Package” to shoot multi-row panoramas picture, with a D3.</p>

<p>Is this “Ultimate-Pro Omni-Pivot Long Package” big enough to hold the Nikon D3? with different position? Is it strong enough to prevent any bending? I searched the internet and some user saying that a D700 with grip has some problem with it - vertical grip hits the bar. The fact is that a D3 is smaller than a D700+grip, but I just want to be sure of that. (I can ask the RRS guys but I just want some comments from current user)</p>

<p>Thank you very much in advance.</p>

<p>Leon</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>I don't have this particular package, but I have a lot of experience with RRS gear in general. You won't have any problems with the stiffness of this panorama package. The upright is bolted to the horizontal rail, with nothing to wiggle, and the components are light but very stiff. Everything is machined from billets of T6 aircraft aluminum - nothing is stamped, cast or extruded.</p>

<p>If not part of this package, you will need a nodal rail and an L-plate for the camera (for horizontal orientation).</p>

<p>If you use (to avoid parallax) a nodal rail to mount the camera in the upright clamp, it's possible that any camera, not just the D700 or D3, will hit the bottom rail with certain lenses, if you tilt the rig far enough. I use f/2.8 zoom lenses in which the nodal point is near the front of the lens. There would be plenty of clearance if your camera were this far back. I don't know about a 24/2.8 AFS. A picture of the problem setup would be helpful.</p>

[shineofleo]

<p>Thank you Edward. I think I well understand it now because the camera body has to be held back to find the right position which ensures the lens is at the nodal point.</p>

<p>It should be okay!</p>

[mark liddell]

I shoot multi row panos with only a ballhead and levelling base; nodal rails and other rrs scaffolding is only really needed for architecture/interiors.

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>Yup! I've shot panoramas without any tripod at all. With care, you can keep the horizon reasonably level and get the proper overlap. This is all at the expense of ragged edges, which must be removed through cropping.</p>

<p>For interiors, you have to be dead level and rotating around the front node of the lens. Otherwise, the results can be unuseable. However, a nodal rail helps even for landscapes if there are prominent features in the foreground. Otherwise you get doubling and ghosts. How close is close? If you can see the object in 3-D with your eyes, use a nodal rail. If the object shifts perceptibly agains the background when you look through the viewfinder and turn the camera, use a nodal rail. A rule of thumb for a "normal" lens is about 75' or closer.</p>

<p>Don't forget to use the camera in manual mode for both focus and exposure.</p>

[shineofleo]

<p>Thank you Edward for your knowledge!</p>

<p>Basically I want to use a long (200mm) lens to take many shallow FOV pictures and put them together. Perhaps some special support can be helpful.</p>

[oskar_ojala]

<p>The easiest panos are with long lenses at great distances, but when the focus is close then all these nodal systems start to really be worth it to avoid hassle when stitching.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>You probably don't need a nodal rail for a 200mm lens - the angle between shots is small. If you did, you would need a special rail (build one up yourself), because the plate on the lens foot is parallel to the lens (there's too much weight to hang everything from the base of the camera). Without a rail, all you need to do is rotate the vertical PCL-1 90 degrees.</p>