Choosing darkroom chemicals

[jack_zietman]

<p>I'm building my own darkroom now that I'm home from college for the summer. However, I find myself obsessing over which chemicals to buy. I've used the Sprint System chemicals extensively, but I'd like to use something a bit less crappy (unless, of course, people outside of community darkrooms would consider them alright). <br /><br />Film developers I've got sorted out, and that's way too big and frequent a discussion. <br /><br />Here's what I've selected for the rest of the developing and printing processes. I'm looking to be both economical and get reliable and decent results:<br /><br />Paper Developer: Dektol (how long would one gallon [i.e. one packet of powder] last?)<br />Stop Bath: Kodak Indicator Stop<br />Fixer: Heico NH-5, 1 gallon (should last a while, right?)<br />Hypo Wash: Heico Perma Wash<br /><br />I've heard great things about the Heico chemicals, but I don't know whether I would get decent results with some cheaper chemicals. Thoughts?<br /><br />thanks again!</p>

[vincent_peri]

<p>When I had a home darkroom 25 years ago, I always used Kodak chemicals exclusively. I always got excellent results.</p>

[ed_lusthoff]

<p>I'll seconf Vincent's statement. I have used Arista but was not fond of them. It all depends how much printing you are going to do, as to how long the chemistry will last.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>Dektol will last about 12 hours in the tray. Fortunately, you use the stock solution (as mixed form powder) diluted 1:2 with water (two parts water) once, then dump it at the end of the session. The unused stock solution will last at least 6 weeks. Label and date all containers, and follow Kodak's instructions regarding use and storage (especially shelf life).</p>

<p>Indicating stop bath is very cheap and lasts about a day in the tray. It's good to have something physically between the developer and fixer - not just for chemical action, but to prevent cross-contamination.</p>

<p>It's best to use fixer mixed from a liquid concentrate. Granulated fixer is really slow to dissolve, and dust particles will ruin undeveloped paper an film. Kodak Rapid Fixer is an excellent product - effective and long lasting. Just be careful not to over-fix. Fixer will last a long time in an open tray, and can be stored in a jug and reused. Test it periodically, and dump it if it starts to smell like rotten eggs (or fails the test).</p>

<p>Fixer killer is used after the prints have been washed fairly well, then washed again after the killer rinse. Personally, I think it's a waste of time and space (the latter a precious commodity in home darkrooms). Two other chemicals make sense - fixer test solution (actually, silver nitrate) and fixer residue testing to spot check the efficacy of your wash cycle. Siphon and Dump washers are much more efficient (and effective) than whirlpool washers.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>I've been developing B&W for over 30 years and have used Kodak chemicals for the most part. My standards are D-76 for film, Dektol for paper, Indicator Stop Bath, Rapid Fix. Haven't checked recently but Sprint was what they used at the Maine Photographic Workshops, which always set very high standards for film developing so I consider them a good recommendation. If you're getting good results with Sprint stick with it. Otherwise I would go with Kodak. The Kodak chemicals are pretty much the industry standard in the U.S. (though TMax is preferred by most of those who shoot Tmax film vs Tri X) and have been time tested over decades. There are all sorts of specialty developers like Acufine etc. that are well respected but I have rarely found a need to stray from the basics. It's just one less variable to worry about.</p>

[jack_zietman]

<p>Thanks for the responses.<br>

I see that the Kodak Rapid Fixer available at Freestyle is a hardening fixer, but I'd rather go for a non-hardening fixer. What about liquid Kodafix? Or any thoughts on the Heico I listed above?<br>

Could anybody link me to a fixer residue testing solution? I didn't know that kind of thing existed, but it would be very useful!</p>

[Monophoto]

<p>Theoretically, you can choose chemicals based on price, performance, or whatever else turns you on (the color of the bottle?). </p>

<p>Pragmatically, however, my conclusion is that liquid concentrates are more convenient to use even through they are a bit more expensive to purchase. I just don't like having to mix from powders and dealing with airborne dust. That then leads to the consideration that having liquid concentrates shipped from a retailer in New York or Los Angeles is expensive and a major PITA. For that reason, I try to shop locally for chemicals. The cost is a bit less because the retailer buys in bulk and pays the special ground shipping hazardous material charge once for the entire lot. </p>

<p>That leads to the situation where my choice is limited to what the one local dealer in my area who carries photo chemicals carries - mainly Ilford and Sprint. Ilford is great - I try to buy it in the two liter size whenever possible. Sprint isn't bad - it's available in larger quantities, but the local guy only carries liter bottles. I do insist on HC-110 as my film developer, and insist on uniformity at that point in order to have consistency in my negatives. Fortunately, the local retailer usually has it.</p>

<p>But when purchasing from a local retailer, an issue is that they don't have the volume needed to justify having a large stock, so there are periods when they won't have one or more of the chemicals that I routinely use. So I protect myself by always having one or two spare bottles of each chemical.</p>

[AJG]

<p>Kodak Rapid fix comes in two parts--fixer and hardener, so you don't have to use the hardener if you don't want to. If you buy large quantities (it used to come in 5 gallon containers, I don't know if it still does), you can buy just the fixer concentrate without the hardener. As for the indicator for fixer exhaustion, you can also count how many sheets of paper/rolls of film go through your chemistry and discard things accordingly. Manufacturers will tell you what the capacity of a given amount of fixer is so that you know what your upper limit is. When I mix a batch of fixer, I put a piece of masking tape on the bottle with the date mixed and I keep track of how many prints by putting the current number on the bottle at the end of each session.</p>

[robert hall]

<p>While I don't want to say chemicals are chemicals, I think you will find that your developer will have the greatest effect on your work as far as the chemicals go, but I think how you have exposed the film and how you print the film will have a much greater effect on the final product than the chemicals will.<br>

I have been in the darkroom pretty much for 40 years and have used many and make many of my own. As an educator of darkroom enthusiasts I would recommend that you pick one developer/film/paper combination until you have control over it. Then move on to something new if you feel the need.<br>

I have been using Ethol LPD for many years as well as others, and it develops a nice warm tone and lasts for just about ever. It's the only developer I actually pour back into a container after a session to use at another time.<br>

Another tip I might suggest is that you spray some canned air into the tops of the bottles before you seal them. It keeps the chemicals from oxidizing and will offer come economy.<br>

Best of luck,</p>

<p>Robert Hall<br>