bf1 Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 <p>I'm shooting a fashion story this weekend and want to utilize rear-curtain sync for its effect. I've never based an entire shoot around this concept, any special tips or advice how to optimize the effect? Specifically, I'm wondering if it's better to use a grid so as to flash only the model or to use a softer but larger light (e.g. brolly, beauty dish, soft box).<br> About the shoot: The styling is going to be bold blacks and whites. The location is a huge brutal functionalist-style monument featuring large, flat walls of gray stone. I'll be shooting in daylight, so will probably have to use some ND filters.<br> Shooting in daylight like this, do you think it's possible to get any painting with light effect, e.g. if I gave the model some colored lights to hold? Or am I wasting my time with that idea?<br> Am also wondering if the black, white and gray palette will actually work with the rear curtain effect...<br> Any tips would be a great help.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_sunley Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 <p>Day light and slow shutter speeds for rear curtain effect translate to real small aperture settings, which will mute the rear curtain effect from the flash. ND filters will mute your flash effect even more along with the daylight.<br> Hope for real heavy overcast skies, or shoot at dawn or dusk unless you have high power flash units.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_skomial Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 <p>Some cameras disable PC sync socket when rear shutter sync is selected and at max sync speed for the shutter.<br> Would it make any lighting difference if camera at max sync speed shutter and rear curtain sync used? - perhaps not.</p> <p> Some cameras catch less flash light when at rear sync and fast shutter speed, possibly causing flash light underexposure.</p> <p>Then, the rear sync flash requires experimentation and experience but results could be rewarding or disapointment.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bf1 Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 <p>Hey Frank, not sure I understand. The point would be to shoot at slow shutter speeds to get the rear-curtain effect.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_skomial Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 <p>Good that you know that. Many complaints are about shooting rear sync without understanding what it is for. This does not apply to you, but others could possibly benefit from knowing. Your post is read by thousands, perhaps?</p> <p>You will do well. Good Luck!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bf1 Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 <p>Thousands reading my post? Uh-oh... ;-)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_sunley Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 <p>No worries, at least a couple did respond. :)<br> I do think you are going to find that there are some incompatibilities between daylight and rear curtain sync that aren't easy to resolve. :(</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelly_flanigan1 Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 <p>What is interesting is that "rear curtain sync" is used in a post 1940 Graflex slr with flashbulbs in portraits for fill light; with long duration FP flashbulbs and a handkerchief to add reduce the light and add diffusion.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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