What flash do you recommend

[dan_tripp]

<p>I have a Sigma DG Super flash and is starting to misfire frequently. It will be 2 years old this May and I have taken thousands of shots with it. Most likely over 10,000. I am a wedding photographer, so I need a flash that can recycle quickly. I know the Pentax 540 has a power pack option, but I can't find great reviews about either. Are there any other options?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

[mcmanamey]

<p>I'm not sure what complaints people would have. We have 2 540's, both are 3 (nearly 4) years old. One got dropped on it's face on the sidewalk 2 years ago now. They both are still working great.<br>

We also shoot weddings. And families, and as a hobby, and children, and events, and and and and, so they are certainly work horses around here.<br>

We also have the power pack now, and probably ought to add a 2nd one. It refreshes VERY quickly, and only slows down when the C-cells are well well well used (like the other night, after no less than 4 heavy duty photo shoots and I was firing in a very dark theater, so full power every shot). Even at that, I really only had to count to about 8 before the flash was charged & ready. I've even gotten just about to the point of not noticing the power cord between flash & pack!</p>

<p>Granted, the lock pin breaking is a problem, and I want to pick up a couple parts flashes to fix it, BUT it's actually not been the real problem I was afraid it would be, so I'm not opposed to owning a couple more at all... just to have extras as side lights, etc.</p>

[michael_elenko]

<p>Dan,<br>

Matthew Miller's Pentax P-TTL Flash <a href="http://pttl.mattdm.org/">site</a> is the authoritative one. Several of us on this forum provided some feedback when he was getting it together.</p>

<p>I use the Metz 58-AF and think it's the best for Pentax and other platforms too. But if I was a strict manual shooter there are a few cheaper units out there that would work wonderfully too. I would also check out the Quantum Q-flash T5D, first to see if you can use it in Auto or Manual mode with a Pentax DSLR; I don't believe it does P-TTL sadly.</p>

<p>You didn't state in what mode(s) you use the flash; perhaps if you can share more details of common distances and situations, P-TTL vs. A vs. manual, etc. we can provide you with better advice.</p>

<p>ME</p>

[mountainvisions]

<p>With wireless I use a few Vivitar 285 HVs with external power cords hooked up to NiMH battery packs or wall outlets. I trigger them with Skyports.</p>

<p>I also have a sigma EF-500 DG Super (since about 2005) which I am very happy with, I have the Pentax 360 which I like for it's size and UI, but lacks swivel which sucks.</p>

<p>I would think that other than the price the Pentax 540 is very good, the Sigma's though seem to be at least as good, and in the case of when I got my EF 500 Super, the Sigma was clearly the superior flash to anything Pentax made at the time, plus it cost a mere $200.</p>

[thebs]

<p>I have a pair of AF-360FGZ units, which was cheaper than a single AF-540FGZ (even more so after the rebates I received). All I need is bounce flash and the AF-360FGZ has enough reach for myself. Having a pair works very well, when I need multiple sources of light. <br>

I use Li-Fe batteries (Energizer e2 Lithium). There is often enough capacitance that I can get a pair of fires before they need to recharge for a few seconds.</p>

[dan_tripp]

<p>Justin, I also have 2 Vivitar 285 HVs. I didn't know there was an external power pack. Where can I find one? Would I be able to put a Vivitar on a flash bracket? I usually shoot in manual mode with my flash anyway. Sometimes I bring an umbrella, so I have become better at manual shooting.<br>

I guess my question is, what is the real advantage of P-TTL</p>

 

[mcmanamey]

<p>If you're used to manual, and good at it, I think I'd recommend skipping P-TTL.<br>

Unfortunately, the sensor meter is easily fooled, and weddings is where we really have the trouble. The reflection from a single sequin on the bride's dress is enough to get the camera to shut the flash down far too early and you're left w/ a dark photo w/ one little bitty bright spot. Personally, I think that is the case w/ any flash using P-TTL (but I can be wrong, just have no experience w/ other models).<br>

I had forgotten how expensive the 540s are. That is a good consideration point.</p>

[trw]

<p>I recently acquired the Metz 48af-1 for on-camera work. It's very nice for techniques similar to those taught on (a site that I apparently can't mention here due to past spam disputes), with exposure close to ambient unless there's no ambient. The interface is sub-optimal for anything beyond P-TTL and adjusting the EC and zoom, or manual work, but that's what I bought it for. Recycling time is fast with eneloop NiMHs at low power (high iso, close to ambient, f2-f4, bounced). There are no snap in gells, I use a CTO sheet gell taped over the head. If you want a LOT of pops or are trying to do 100iso/f8, I imagine the 58af's higher GN and external battery pack option are handy.</p>

<p>For off-camera where there is a power outlet I use a pair of flashpoint BF-160's. They may not be the best out there, but they're the best WS/$ you'll find and surprisingly good quality for $60/head. If you want to use bare bulb or a softbox, these are not for you though; they have an integrated reflector (fairly wide pattern though). Obviously, recycle time does not vary by number of pops, but a lot of full-power pops in quick succession will trip the thermal shutdown for a few seconds. At lower power, recycle is very fast. There is no gell holder and if you just tape a gell over the head, it WILL melt if you turn on the modelling light.</p>

[mountainvisions]

<blockquote>

<p>Justin, I also have 2 Vivitar 285 HVs. I didn't know there was an external power pack. Where can I find one? Would I be able to put a Vivitar on a flash bracket? I usually shoot in manual mode with my flash anyway. Sometimes I bring an umbrella, so I have become better at manual shooting.<br /> I guess my question is, what is the real advantage of P-TTL</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>The only advantage to P-TTL is high speed sync and wireless adjustment which is techncally limited anyway. </p>

<p>However, P-TTL is at best inconsistent (as is i-TTL and all the other flavors), and I prefer manual flash.</p>

<p>The I bought the AC power cords for the 285s, and then I attached them to Black and Decker Power to Go packs seen here: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-CPI100B-Cordless-Supply/dp/B000SZVMRW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1272654717&sr=8-2</p>

<p>It's not exactly a high power setup, but it is compact, gets me off AA batteries, does give me slightly faster recycle times, and works decently. I'm sure you can do something similar with a little hacking of a 3rd party battery pack as well.</p>

<p> </p>

[andrewg_ny]

<p>There are probably others (including <a href="http://www.comatosed.ca/writing/writing/reviews/DIY_Vivitar_285_HV_Battery_Pack.html">d-i-y</a>), but I found <a href="http://www.ez1photo.com/products.html">this source</a> for Vivitar 285 battery packs.</p>

[jeremy_corbin]

<p>I have a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sunpak-Auto-2000DZ-Hot-shoe-clip/dp/B00006I5UU">SunPak 2000DZ Auto</a> and a <a href="http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,12311.html">LumoPro LP120</a>. Both are useful in their own ways. The 2000DZ is nice when my flash-to-subject distance changes a lot, and hence is great for on camera situations where flexibility is key. It's not as strong as the LP120 (the 2000DZ has a guide number of 24, while the LP120 is 100). But overall I use my LP120 more often since it's completely manual. It's a fantastic flash for off-camera use. It includes an optical slave mode, but I usually use wireless triggers with it.</p>

<p>The TTL Flashes like the 540 and 360 have their advantages for sure, but each flash has it's own place in the world... and my two flashes found me cause they're cheap! :-)</p>

[sfcole]

<p>A word about power ratings (sorry, Matthew Miller): my Pentax Af540 does not reach published guide numbers. As tested by my Sekonic 558, it puts out a GN of 110 (ft). Also, I have 2 Vivitar 283s--they test at about 80/85.<br>

One very good reason to have a flash meter on hand........</p>

[sfcole]

<p>A word about power ratings (sorry, Matthew Miller): my Pentax Af540 does not reach published guide numbers. As tested by my Sekonic 558, it puts out a GN of 110 (ft). Also, I have 2 Vivitar 283s--they test at about 80/85.<br>

One very good reason to have a flash meter on hand........</p>

[michael_kuhne]

<p>I sure wish Pentax would again offer regular TTL optional operation. Since the flash unit has the option, it seems like a firmware update to existing camera models could be done. Then all you'd have to do is switch your flash unit to "TTL" instead of "P-TTL". My impression is that P-TTL takes a fraction longer to recycle, takes a bit more battery power, and is a bit more variable in its exposure results.</p>

<p>But overall, I have been getting good results with P-TTL.</p>

[trw]

<p>Sorry Michael, offering TTL would also require having a sensor with a matte grey surface, rather than a glossy but highly absorptive one. The TTL flash sensor has to look at the reflection off the film to do TTL. </p>