Macro photography with flash

[orcama60]

<p>Hi guys and thank you in advance for your help. Recently I bought the Sigma 150 mm f/2.8 macro for my Nikon D300 and by next tuesday, I will have it in my door. Was a tough decision to decide between the Tokina 100 mm f/2.8, the Tamrom 90mm f/2.8 and the Nikon 105 mm f/2.8 VR but finally, I decided to buy this lens, because it will give me more distance from my subject ( insects ), the collar is a plus and also it does have almost the same optical quality as the Nikon and Tamrom ( according to Photozone review ). Having said so, I am looking for your advises about shooting macro with artificial light, in this case the speedlight SB-800 that I also have. According to Ken Rockwell, he does suggest to shoot always with flash and with an aperture of f/22 a 1/250 in TTL so you should be able to freeze movement and illuminate the subject enough to achieve a good picture. Have any of you used flash for macro photography and if so, what is your experience, your camera settings, your speedlight settings, etc. Ken Rockwell also mentions the Nikon Speedlight system known as R1 is the best for shooting macro with artificial light. I only have the SB-800 for now, but I would not hesitate to buy that system if I can not accomplish good pictures with only one speedlight, in this case the SB-800. So, what is your advise, experience and your personal recommendations based of course in your own experience shooting macro with artificial light ? Should I use it also during daylight or just when it is too dark ? I also have a tripod with a ball head but Ken mentioned that if you use your speedlight, then the tripod is not a must have to shoot and he is probably right. Any suggestion, experience, especially with this lens ? By the way, this is the first third party lens that I am going to have in my Nikon D300. Do you have a good experience with it ? What is the color produced by the lens ? What is the bokeh ? Thank you so much and have a happy shooting. </p>

[eric_arnold]

<p>i would seek other Internet scribes other than Rockwell if i were you. not that he's completely full of it, but he's not a be-all and end-all. for instance, if you want to minimize camera shake, use a tripod. period.</p>

[SCL]

<p>Over the years I've used both flash and natural daylight for macro work. I love natural light, but often it is insufficient,particularly with small apertures, to get sufficient DOF and freeze motion. Sometimes panning helps (with flying insects), but it is definitely a learned skill. Both on and off camera flash have been quite effective when I've chosen to use it. I've recently started using a macro ring flash with good results, but I imagine I'll need a full season of use to determine how to best take advantage of it. I suggest you just get out and shoot - a lot, and not worry too much about all the nuances. Your pictures will give you more information and feedback than 100 Ken Rockwells, or any of us. The "settings" any of use are all dependent on the unique situation presented to us and what we want to achieve. If you're really craving tons of macro discussions, there are several sites devoted to this topic solely, and you will get your head swimming in short order. I reiterate - get out and shoot and after analyzing a couple hundred shots, you'll be in a much better position to direct your questions to specifics, as well as having some examples for others to look at. Good luck and enjoy your new gear.</p>

[alex_lofquist]

<p>If you intend to use flash for macro photography, I'd strongly recommend taking the flash off of the camera. I like a short coiled cord which will allow moving the flash up to about five feet off to the side. Use a second flash unit, or a reflector, to fill in the shadows created by the primary light source.</p>

[frank_skomial]

<p>Read SB-800 specifications to discover minimal shooting distance for automatic exposure.</p>

[homer_arment1]

<p>I often use this setup for shooting butterflies. Usually I set the SB800 in manual mode at 1/6 to 1/8 power, set my lens at around F11 and crank the shutter speed up around 1/250 sec. The flash I keep on camera with the diffusion dome on and I usually shoot in short bursts of 2-3 images. Set your focus so the subject you are after will fill around 2/3 - 3/4 of the frame. Move the camera toward or away from the subject to achieve focus or use the continuous focus setting for autofocus. Check your histogram frequently to be sure you are getting proper exposures. Shoot lots, Cull severly and have a lot of fun.</p>

[Peter_in_PA]

<p>Ken is often wacky, but in this case, shooting hand-held with a flash... not a bad idea. I've basically done this very thing on occasion with very good results. Also, although diffraction typically limits you to F11 or f13, I have done tests and found that with my 55mm micro lens I can go all the way to f22 without the same substantial penalty you get with other lenses (when printing 8 x 10 or smaller). I don't know why, to be honest. And I don't know how it'll work with your lens. You have to test this for yourself.</p>

<p>That said, my favorite close-up shots are without flash. OR... with your camera and the SB800, take the flash off the camera and use wireless CLS control! It's WAY cool.</p>

[bgorum]

<p>I think you can achieve very nice macro lighting with a single flash. Instead of buying the expensive R1 unit I would suggest you first try a good macro flash bracket (I like Wimberly's) with your SB800. When you have the flash really close to the subject it provides very even lighting. You can either use the Nikon CLS system or get a ttl cord. My experience has been that the ttl cord works a little better, especially if you are photographing animals. The pre-flashes when using cls seem to occur further apart from the actual flash than when using a cord and I have had lizards flinch and have had difficulty capturing calling frogs fully inflated vocal sacks because of the delay. I've never run into any problems with the minimum shooting distance with my flashes, (though I use the less powerful SB600s). I use the built in wide angle diffuser when doing macro with them. I would definitely not suggest you shoot everything at f22. Shoot at what ever aperture gives you the desired depth of field.</p>

[joseph_smith3]

<p>Lighting is often critical for all images even macro images. So flash is often needed. Flash is often used as fill flash and not main light in many macro applications. In the Nikon world, that means setting the SB 800 to TTL, not TTL BL and probably setting your camera synch to rear curtain and not front curtain synch. The Nikon R1C1 macro flash takes pictures wirelessly and uses TTL BL. It cannot be set to just TTL or Standard Fill flash. However, both the SB-800 and the R1C1 if used and set properly are excellent flashes for macro applications--I use both of them. I agree with Alex in that having the flashes off camera is often better. I suggest you go the Really Right Stuff's web site and look at their special macro flash brackets that can be used with the R1C1 or the SB-800. One kit to consider is an L bracket, B-87 B portrait package and related parts.</p>

<p>Joe Smith</p>

[joseph_smith3]

<p>Maurice, regarding the right f stop to use for macro, do not always assume it is going to be a small one like f22. The correct answer is "it all depends!" With very small f stops you get diffraction-- a decrease in image sharpness at small lens openings. Often in macro shots, you use f stops to control depth of field--meaning controlling what you see and do not see in the main image and in backgrounds. This means that you might be shooting wide open! I rarely shoot at f 22 with my Nikon macro lenses. Joe smith</p>

[walterh]

<p>"Read SB-800 specifications to discover minimal shooting distance for automatic exposure."</p>

<p>Useful comment Frank. Let me add that you can dim the flash in the field if needed by pulling a transparent white paper in front of the flash. Not the best solution in the color work-flow but usually not a problem. If you got a cold you might just have the right tool with you :-)</p>

<p> </p>

[scott_murphy_photography]

<p>I use flash with macro all the time, both in the studio and outside. I do not, however do it in TTL or any other automatic mode. Most times it is better to do it in manual. Outside, use flash for fill flash, 1 - 1.5 stops lower than the ambient exposure. A ring flash comes in handy a lot of times, as it gives you shadowless light and allows you to get very close to the subject without the parallex effect you would get with a shoe-mounted flash. In most instances, it looks better to do off camera flash anyway, as it looks more natural.</p>

<p>.</p>

[glenjo]

<p>I use my SB-800 flash hand held off camera with CLS for macro. Works very well.</p>

[stephen_fassman]

<p>The SB800 has a 2' usable minimal auto distance. Used on-camera, the lens barrel will block the light to subject at closest focusing distance. The best way to use the sb800 with a macro lens, is hand held under the lens, even with, or slightly behind the front element, in commander mode, using the on-camera strobe to trigger it. Your macro lens has what... slightly more than 1' closest focusing distance @ 1:1, as the 105 nikkor is 12" from the "film" plane, and "you wanted longer.". Measure the distance from the strobe to subject @1>1, and do some math & on camera or on strobe exposure adjustments, to reduce the 2' auto exposure to compensate for the closer distance. You can also try a reduced power manual setting. Work out these details at home, shooting similar sized objects that you will shoot in the field, before doing the serious stuff. You need the stobe to freeze the action, (a flower blowing in the wind, moving living subject), and illuminate the subject head on. Available light is nice, but it creates shadows in all the wrong places. I used to use this technique with a 60/2.8 Micro Nikkor, quite successfully, with the lens to subject distance literally 2 inches in 1:1, but it's a real PITA. The R1C is The amazing solution, (or a decent ringlight), bec you really want diffuse, forward firing light, that will not create harsh shadows. Remember your DOF is +/- 1-2 mm @ 1:1 (depending on focal length), so you are actually shooting a 1-2mm slice of your subject (whatever you choose to focus on), and this must be evenly illuminated. Have fun.</p>

[stephen_fassman]

<p>Since your 150 Macro will arrive "by next Tues," I have a curious question? Did you audition your choices in a camera store? Did you ask experienced advice prior to choosing a 150? Do you have experience in Macro photography with a DSLR, shooting @ 1:1, and what that entails? The reason that I'm asking is because your 150 will become a 225mm lens on your D300. This is a very unmanageable focal length for a beginner. It's almost useless for most photography except sports, and as a Macro, as you "close focus" to 1:1, shall I estimate @ 14-16" from the film plane, you have even less DOF than I estimated in my 1st reply. This will be VERY difficult to hand hold, needing a tripod, a macro rail head, and a very cooperative subject. A 90-105 makes much more sense, as it will make a great "long" portrait" lens, as well as be much more useful for general photos. The NEW Nikon 85/3.5 Micro DX(!) looks perfect on paper, and you shouldn't deny your D300 this "apparently perfect" mate. Its price is a fraction of the 105/2.8 Micro! Go for it!</p>

[orcama60]

<p>Thank you Stephen for your advises. Yes, I did my homework about the available lenses. As I said in my post, did not like the focal distance of the Tamrom and the Tokina, and the Nikon 105 is too pricey for me and it is not a dedicated macro lens as the Sigma 150. Also, I was looking for enough distance to photograph insects and 150 mm is about right for that but not the best. Yes also to that I am not a pro in macro photography, otherwise I would not be asking questions, but hey, the only way to know is to ask questions, apply those advises from people like you with more experience and of course, my own feedback from my own experience which is at the end, the most valuable input for me to learn. I had to had something to start with and focal distances lower than 105 are not appealing to me for macro photography. The more distance I get, the better and easier to use my flash and not to scare the insects and stuff. I also have a very good tripod with ball head, the nikon sc-17 cord for my flash to use it off the camera and most of all, the wish to learn and to shoot till I get very good results. This lens is not good for sport Stephen and it is not my intention to use for it, except for macro and some portraits. I have the Nikon 70-300 for action in good light condition, the 16-85 and the 50 f/1.8 which I also use for close up photography. Wanted to have a dedicated macro and decided to go for the Sigma. I will use with and without the flash, but I wanted to hear some advises from people with experience, about how to use the flash for this kind of photography. <br>

Thank you again for all your advises and I will use them on the field. Will post my pictures in my portfolio for you to judge them and feed me back if you can or want. </p>

[joseph_smith3]

<p>Maurice, you bought a great lens. I much prefer the longer focal lengths. Personally, I have no desire to own the new 105 Nikon. Your lens has a tripod collar mount, I believe as does my 200mm Nikon macro. Joe Smith</p>

[orcama60]

<p>Guys, here is my first picture taken with my new lens Sigma 150 mm f/2.8. They will get better soon. </p><div></div>

[Peter_in_PA]

<p>Maurice... COOL!</p>

[steve_walker6]

<p>The photo below (Water Drop on Lilac Bush) was taken yesterday with a bellows and 50mm Fujinon EP enlarging lens (on a tripod). I think it was at f/22. Both the lens and the flash were within an inch or so of the water drop. The flash had a plastic diffuser on it and was triggered by an inexpensive radio and slave (no cords and all manual).<br>

<img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Flowers/Macro-Flowers/IMG8783/850096681_BhMEW-M.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /><br>

I have shot hand held with an off camera manual flash for product shots. I focus by moving closer to the subject and then shoot at my sync speed (1/200). I am planning on trying extension tubes with enlarging lenses which should make the camera lighter than when I shoot with the older and heavier Vivitar 90 MM 1:1 f/2.5.<br>

<br /> I have written about both a Vivitar 90mm 1:1 prime lens and enlarging lenses on bellows <a href="http://macrobellowsphotography.blogspot.com/">here</a>.</p>