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Reversing 50/1.8 onto 55-250 IS for macro


yakim_peled1

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<p>Yakim,<br />One other thing to keep in mind. If you use an adaptor vinetting will show up using the 50 1.8. A 50 f2 is more of a problem. It is not a problem at all with a 1.4 lens. I picked an old pentax 501.4 lens to try it myself. Worked fine. If you do use a 1.8 to off set you will have to use a small extension between lens and body. Taping the lens in place allows the 50mm lens to get a bit closer and thusly alleviate the problem a bit. As you zoom out to more magnification the problem goes away,, and so does dof.<br>

<br />Scott, <br />sorry my picture was not up to your standards. I will be sure to check with you first the next time.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>but why do you think that the 50/2 is better for this?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>because</p>

<ol>

<li>I am talking about the old manual focus, non-electric aperture, even pre-AI, Nikkor 50mm f//2</li>

<li>which, being all manual, is actually much easier to use than a lens that does not even have an aperture control ring, for one thing, much less being AF etc.</li>

<li>ditto for any other all-manual lens of <em><strong>any</strong></em> focal length. Biotars, Sonnars, and a plethora of others. I was not purposely speaking only of 50mm, but that was what the OP asked about.</li>

</ol>

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<blockquote>

<p>being all manual, is actually much easier to use than a lens that does not even have an aperture control ring, for one thing, much less being AF etc.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>True,<br>

The reason why my first shot with the 50mm gave more DOF was due to be able to close the iris blades, therefore allowing for more DOF<br>

The others were taken with an EF canon compatable lens, which did not allow me to close the iris blades and the DOF was very limited.</p>

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