D300 shooting mode question

[yuriy_romanenko]

<p>@Ofer</p>

<p>EV can be fixed using EV-L button in P mode. </p>

[evilsivan]

<p>Yuriy-<br>

But don't you have to point at your 'zero ev' then hold the the EV-L until you finish shooting? You'd have to point at your zero every time you compose.</p>

[gdw]

<p >Yuriy beat me to it but let me fill in some of the details. With Program Mode selected, point the camera to the area that you want to meter and the camera will select a shutter speed and an aperture based on what it considers the best of both worlds algorithm. You now have an exposure reading based on the amount of light and the reflectance of the area metered which should either be equal to middle gray in reflectance or average out to middle gray. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Let’s say that the original reading is f/4 at 1/60 sec, but you need a faster shutter speed and wish to use 1/200 sec. Simply rotate the rear command dial until the shutter speed in the viewfinder shows 1/200 sec. As you rotate the dial the aperture will change so that at 1/200 sec it will be f/2.2. Or to go the other way, let’s say you wanted to shoot wide open at f/1.4, rotate the dial till the aperture is at f/1.4 and the shutter speed will change to 1/400 sec. In either case the EV remains the same because Program Mode is based simply on EV. Well, actually the whole metering system is based on EV but only Program Mode locks EV.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >From the last response it appears that Ofer understands that the OP wants the EV to stay locked even if the OP moves the camera to a different lighting situation. In that case, Ofer is absolutely correct, if you change the lighting or move the camera into an area that does not have middle gray reflectance the EV is going to change. If the light changes, that is normally what you would want to happen. You would want the camera to remeter for the new lighting conditions and then again you could readjust the rear command dial to either the shutter speed or the aperture you desire. However, if the light does not change and you simply move the metering sensor to an area of a difference reflectance that is not what you want to happen; you want to retain the meter reading from the middle gray area. Fortunately there is a simple solution to that problem—the AF-L/AE-L Button.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >This is something that I personally recommend for every Nikon owner—set the AE-L/AF-L to Lock and Hold Exposure Only. That way in either of the two scenarios above all the OP would have to do would be to take the meter reading of the middle gray area in the original lighting situation, rotate the rear dial to select either the shutter speed or aperture desired and then press and release the AE-L/AF-L button. That will lock the EV, the shutter speed and the aperture so that the camera can be moved into a different reflectance area and everything will stay locked.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >There are three settings that I used on the D200 and now on the D700 which I wouldn’t be without. Since the D300 came in between those two models I feel sure it will work the same way.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I have the Function Button set to switch the metering to Spot to make a quick switch if spot metering is called for.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I have the AE-L/AF-L set to Lock and Hold Exposure. That way I make the selection of where the camera will meter, adjust the settings as mentioned above if in Program Mode, then press the AE-L/AF-L and lock in that exposure setting. If I recompose, or even if I turn in the opposite direction the exposure setting will not change. I can even take numerous shots and it will not change. It will only change when I again press the AE-L/AF-L. This of course is shown in the viewfinder so that you should not forget to repress the AE-L/AF-L should you want the camera to remeter.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I have the AF-ON set as the only focus device. That way I choose exactly where I what to focus and hold in the AF-ON as I recompose. I do not have to be concerned about slightly releasing the pressure on the shutter release which would allow the camera to refocus.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Both exposure and focus are locked and totally under my control. I select where and do not rely on the camera to make the selection at the time of half press on the shutter release. I want to take advantage of each and every technological advantage I paid for but I want to be the one that makes the major decisions and I do not want to throw away all that technology I paid for by reverting to manual—I did that fifty plus years ago because then it was the only choice I had. And even in my senility I still know when Manual should be used but I am not about to give up my in camera metering for the vast majority of the photographs that I take.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >There is one caveat, maybe two. For this to work you much have your Shooting Mode set to Single. The AE-L/AE-F will continue to work the same but the AF-ON will not hold the focus when the camera is set to Continuous Mode. I am not sure how AUTO ISO will affect this since I have never found need to use it.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >This system works extremely well in Program Mode and as far as I am concerned it makes Program Mode actually a combination of Aperture and Shutter Priority—it gives you the best of both with a simple turn of the rear command dial. Although some people here are dexterous enough to master two command dials this does eliminate the click counting--it also eliminates the off chance possibility that in a hurry you turn one of the dials the wrong direction as you are counting the clicks. LOL Actually, it’s pretty handy with just a little practice.</p>

[evilsivan]

<p>Gary<br>

thanks that's really really helpful. I didn't know about AE-L/AF-L to Lock and Hold Exposure Only. That is definitely the key. It allows you to set your EV keep it set even after moving or shooting or whatever. Of course I've been using AE-L but I never thought to use Lock and Hold Exposure Only.</p>

<p> </p>

[gdw]

<p>Ofer, you are welcome. I have found the combination of using the Lock on exposure and the AF-ON to be life savors. It really gives you total control. I cannot understand why anyone using a DSLR would want to use the half press on the shutter release.</p>

[evilsivan]

<p>Gary<br>

I'm using a D80 and I don't think I can use AF-on and AE Lock at the same time, I could be wrong about that.</p>

<p>Also, with AE Lock and Hold on, are not A and S modes more or less the same as P mode?</p>