Found An Old Rolleicord TLR

[alex_cheli]

<p>Hey everyone, I just found an awesome Rolleicord TLR in basement this passed week, but I have a few questions. First off how do I tell exactly what type of Rolleicord it is (e.g. I, II, III etc.)? Second, its in pretty bad shape, is it worth it to refurbish or would it be the same price as buying a "new" one on Ebay or something like that? Finally, if it is worth it to repair the camera does anyone know a good place to get that done in the NJ/NYC area (does B And H do repairs)? Thanks so much in advance for any advice you have.</p>

[scott_murphy_photography]

<p>How bad is "pretty bad" shape? Knowing that will determine whether it is worth repairing or chucking.</p>

[maury_cohen]

<p>This link may help:<br>

<a href="http://johnsrolleionlypage.homestead.com/Rolleicords.html">http://johnsrolleionlypage.homestead.com/Rolleicords.html</a></p>

[alex_cheli]

<p>Thanks for the link Maury that did help. Regarding the shape its in, it seems that all the parts are there and moving properly, the lenses are not cracked just lots of dust and grime on just about every part of the camera both inside and out.</p>

[j.p._dahl_n]

<p>Please, show it to us!</p>

[robert_marvin]

<p>One of the best Rollei repair people in the country is in New Jersey:</p>

<p>Krikor Maralian<br />Krimar Photo Shop<br />105B Broadway (Route 4)<br />Elmwood Park, NJ 07407<br /><br />(201) 796-0554, Fax (201) 797-9356</p>

<p>I've used him and recommend him highly.</p>

[alex_cheli]

<p>Sorry I am trying to upload some shots of the camera from my computer onto here but I am new here so I don't quite know what I am doing yet. Anyone know how to do that because the only option I have is getting an image hosted on the web but I want to upload direct from my computer. Thank you so much for that information Robert maybe I'll just drive over there this weekend and see what they think.</p>

[alex_cheli]

<p>here are some shots of the camera</p><div></div>

[alex_cheli]

<p>another</p><div></div>

[alex_cheli]

<p>finally</p><div></div>

[kelly_flanigan1]

<p>Looks more like a Rolliecord IV ; maybe about say 1953ish</p>

[alex_cheli]

<p>Does it look like its worth repairing/refurbishing?</p>

[richard_oleson]

<p>sure! it'll keep you busy for a while though, of course. first thing is to avoid scratching the lenses (bottom one especially) when you clean them.... blow off loose dirt first, then wipe VERY gently with a VERY wet, soft cloth. You want the liquid to flush the dirt off, rather than the cloth scrubbing it off. Once you have the glass clean and unscratched, you can relax a bit and go after the rest at your leisure.</p>

[dan_mcclain]

<p>Alex,</p>

<p> TLRs can be a lot of fun. The real potential issue with your camera might be rust. A few small spots here and there could mean that there is rust inside the camera's moving parts. You could find a TLR technician who is willing to provide an estimate. Mark Hansen, regular on the classic camera forum, would probably give you an estimate. He has overhauled a Rolleicord I and III for me in the past and I was happy with his work. CameraLeather.com can provide replacement leather. </p>

<p> </p>

[alex_cheli]

<p>Thank you so much for everyone who responded I'm going take it to the camera shop that Robert suggested and see what they say about it. Once again thanks everyone.</p>

[robert_marvin]

<p>Please let us know what Krikor says about your camera.</p>

[eric_mogren]

<p>Once (if) you get the thing in working order, you can make it shine with new leather!<br>

http://www.cameraleather.com/</p>

[alex_cheli]

<p>Brought the camera to Krimar Photo Shop yesterday and spoke with Krikor for a long time. He was one of the nicest people I have ever met but unfortunately he told me it was not worth it to repair. In fact he showed me boxes of cameras that people him that are in much better shape than mine that are not worth it either. Oh well does anyone know of a reasonably priced TLR that would be good to start out with are Seagulls any good? Thanks again everyone.</p>

[irvine.short]

<p>There's a guy in Cape Town, South Africa, who could prolly make that one look and work as good as new for a couple hundred US$.<br>

He replaced the mirror, panelbeated the body (literally), pulled the front out in to shape again and reset the focussing etc etc for less than that after my Yashica-Mat got dropped.<br>

--Irvine</p>

 

[dave_s]

<p><em>a reasonably priced TLR that would be good to start out with </em><br>

<em> </em><br>

Do a search and you should be able to find previous threads in photo.net which address your question. </p>

<p>(i) It is more important that you get a camera in excellent condition, rather than what specific brand or model you buy. Read that sentence again. If you're on a budget, look for a camera that doesn't need immediate servicing, because an expert CLA may cost close to $400. Get a guarantee, and shoot a a test roll with the aperture open, to make sure the lenses are well matched at all distances. Look for a camera that has been working well and in recent use, maybe recently overhauled, and not sitting in a closet (or, gawd help me, a garage) for forty years.</p>

<p>(ii) Having said all that, you should be able to find a decent Rolleicord III, IV, or V for a couple of hundred bucks. Look for one with a Schneider Xenar lens. You might be able to find a postwar Rolleiflex with a Zeiss Tessar. Many people here say Yashicamats and Autocords are excellent, but I've never had one. Nearly everyone will tell you to avoid Seagulls and similar excreta.</p>

<p>(iii) If you can tolerate a big honker of a camera, consider a Mamiya TLR, like a C33, C330, or C220. These sell for a song now. They have advantages like interchangeable lenses and a very straight film path, but at the cost of size and weight.</p>

[photomat-]

<p>I got lucky and picked up my Rollie Automat for $100 but they can be had for around $200 on *Bay. Just be patient, read descriptions carefully and check feedback on the sellers and you should be good. Then think about factoring in the cost of CLA. I believe a CLA from Krikor is around $150. I plan on sending mine there. Of course, if you live nearby, you could just buy one from Krikor himself?</p>

[eric_mogren]

<p>

<p >One thing I caution you about is shopping for a camera on eBay. There are many fine dealers there, but the bad-apples make it a problematic shopping experience for everyone. I was burned recently on a deal for a Yashica Mat (eventually went to the Resolution Center and got my money back). The camera was not accurately described in the posting or in pre-bid emails -- the first thing I did was shine a light through lens from front to back and saw the taking lens was toast. Shot a roll anyway, and ALL the speeds were way off.</p>

<p >What I learned from the experience (and others):</p>

<p >I suspect that many/most sellers don't have the slightest idea about how to accurately assess the condition of the old camera they are selling. Most focus on cosmetics, and frequently say things like "the shutter sounds right," or "everything works" without having any real clue.</p>

<p >Beware of anyone who uses the term "minty" in a description...</p>

<p >Never, ever, buy a camera from a seller who does not accept returns -- they do not accept returns because they know or suspect that what they are selling is in worse condition than they say it is. Ditto for a minimal three day return. Ask for, and get in writing, (and keep a copy of that correspondence) a return policy that allows you sufficient time to shoot a couple of rolls of NEW film and have them processed -- usually a couple of weeks for a mail-order lab. The return agreement should state that you can return the camera for any reason (offer to pay shipping for the return).</p>

<p >Always use PayPal.</p>

<p >The camera you really, really want will ALWAYS come up for sale again on eBay eventually. Do your research, decide the maximum you will pay, and be patient.</p>

<p >In your mind, add $150 to $200 to your maximum bid price for a CLA of the camera -- in all likelihood, sooner rather than later it will need it, and if it has already been done on the auctioned camera, it will be reflected in the higher minimum bid price and the bidding.</p>

<p >Never buy ANY item on eBay from out of the country.</p>

<p >Do your research on completed auctions for the item you want and, as always, if the deal looks too good, walk away fast.</p>

</p>

[j.p._dahl_n]

<p>I agree with Krikor that it's not worth a repair by a professional repairman, but it still is a nice project for the hobbyist. Don't throw it away when you can give or sell it as a spare parts camera.</p>

[fred_haeseker]

<p>Rather than a Seagull (mechanically iffy, not built to last), I'd look for a Yashica-Mat. The earlier models are generally priced for less than half of the last model, the 124g. The only difference is the lack of a light meter. The Yashinon lens, a very good Tessar-type, is the same on both models, and the earlier cameras have metal parts where the 124g uses plastic.<br>

I found a like-new Yashica-Mat (late '50s) for $80 on the auction site. Even the shutter was well within range, for negative film anyway. The seller told me the camera had seen regular but very careful use by her father. Seems like she was telling the truth.</p>

[fred_haeseker]

<p>Rather than a Seagull (mechanically iffy, not built to last), I'd look for a Yashica-Mat. The earlier models are generally priced for less than half of the last model, the 124g. The only difference is the lack of a light meter. The Yashinon lens, a very good Tessar-type, is the same on both models, and the earlier cameras have metal parts where the 124g uses plastic.<br>

I found a like-new Yashica-Mat (late '50s) for $80 on the auction site. Even the shutter was well within range, for negative film anyway. The seller told me the camera had seen regular but very careful use by her father. Seems like she was telling the truth.</p>